"V" Notching Made Easy

[A Random User]

Was asked to start up a thread dealing with "V" notching, a technique which
really is one of the best and easiest ways to change the angle of a large branch.
I can't tell you how many times I have used this technique, it is very simple to do.

For me, I think the term "V" notching is incorrect, and it really should be referred to
as something else, because if one is actually cutting a "V", or pie shape out of a branch
you really are removing way too much and putting undue stress on the branch and risking
the life of the branch all together !

Instead, one would be better off, doing multiple cuts / bends along the trunk, rather than
one really big bend. I will discuss this later.

So, here goes, easy peesy...

First off, and most important, set your guy wire !!! Run your wire, up and over the branch,
and down and around where you are anchoring to, then back up to meet the other end and
twist the wires together, do not tighten yet. Doing this now, removes any accidental
bumping, careless pulling, etc. on the branch after it has been cut.



Now, time to cut... Use a "Pull Saw" !!! A pull saw, is designed where the teeth only cut in
one direction. This prevents undue stress on tree, and branch, by not constantly jarring them
back and forth while cutting. Next, cut always goes on the underside !!! Reason being, that if
the branch is accidently pulled down at any time in the future, even after it has healed, it will
pull down against itself and will prevent the branch from being broken off. With that said, I do
have to cover my bases and say that yes, occasionally a cut on the side could be used, but one
does risk a better chance of being broken. Absolutely no cuts on top.

Now I usually cut perpendicular to the trunk, and I cut about 3/4 of the way through. Any less
one risks the chance of the top being torn apart during bend. Don't talk to your friends while
doing, or allow yourself to get distracted, and make sure you pay attention to how far
up the cut is on the other side of the branch, the part you can't see, so you don't cut through
the branch !!! I do one cut, that's it... straight up and down, the width of the saw blade, which
should be quite thin, about a 32nd of an inch.



Now take your pliers, and twist the ends of the wire, while slightly pulling, this will corkscrew
the wire tightening it up... do this while slowly pushing down on the branch with the other hand,
until the gap you have created with the saw is closed tight.



Not enough bend, or want more... repeat, run the saw blade again through the exact same
cut, opening it up again, make sure again to not cut through branch.



Then repeat the pulling down process as described above until tight again. Doing this process
repeatedly like this better insures that the cut lines up, that bark matches bark and that the
cambium layers line up to help with the healing process. You don't end up with any big gaps
and you can easily watch to see how the top of the branch reacts to the bend, and if there is
any ripping.

 

[A Random User]

I would suggest that one only repeats this process 3 times at the most, any more than
that, really one should consider doing multiple cuts/bends along the branch. You will be
surprised though at how much with just one pass of the saw blade, you can move a branch.



Hope this helps !!!
Now bend away !!!

 

[berobinson82]

No matter your style or the threads that go awry, I'm glad that you're posting again and offering pictures of your trees and tutorials as well. Thank you for sharing.

 

[lordy]

This is something I have thought several times of doing, just never did. Now maybe I will. Thanks Stacey.

 

[barrosinc]

nice thread. I wasn't aware of this technique.

 

[A Random User]

This is something I have thought several times of doing, just never did. Now maybe I will. Thanks Stacey.

No problem... you should !
It is a very easy process to do and once the scare factor
Has gone away and you have done it once, it will literally open
Up a whole world !!!

Post up some pics of this work when done for others to see.

 

[A Random User]

One more thing I forgot to mention, be sure and seal
Wound with cut puddy, not paste, to assist in the healing
Process, and prevent any drying out. If you are not a fan of
The stuff, I still recommend it in the beginning to assist with
It not drying out to fast, then remove after a couple of weeks.

 

[A Random User]

Also, just like with any work being done on a tree, one should consider
The type of tree and how it heals, or responds to cuts...
Some material really does not heal over cuts, such as bougies,
And a cut like this might always be visible. So, unless it
Will be hidden, you might be better off just cutting way back on
The branch, and allowing new growth to be wired in the direction
You need.

 

[Lazylightningny]

This is much better than cutting a 'v' because you are sure the cambium edges will line up nicely. Thanks for the tutorial.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Also, just like with any work being done on a tree, one should consider
The type of tree and how it heals, or responds to cuts...
Some material really does not heal over cuts, such as bougies,
And a cut like this might always be visible. So, unless it
Will be hidden, you might be better off just cutting way back on
The branch, and allowing new growth to be wired in the direction
You need.

I have used this, and several other branch-breaking techniques over the years to put bends in stout or otherwise stubborn branches. Do you have any photos to share of this particular process and the results over several years' time?

 

[thams]

Here is a neat little article from Jerry Meislik about lowering a thick branch - very similar technique with pictures. Thanks for this thread!

http://www.bonsaihunk.us/ficusforum/FicusTechniques/FigTechnique1.html

 

[GrimLore]

One more thing I forgot to mention, be sure and seal
Wound with cut puddy, not paste, to assist in the healing
Process, and prevent any drying out. If you are not a fan of
The stuff, I still recommend it in the beginning to assist with
It not drying out to fast, then remove after a couple of weeks.

I find a heavy wrap of Raffia works as well and was curious what you thought about it

Grimmy

 

[A Random User]

I have used this, and several other branch-breaking techniques over the years to put bends in stout or otherwise stubborn branches. Do you have any photos to share of this particular process and the results over several years' time?

I will try and post some up when I get a chance. It is currently pouring
and lighting outside and my yard is flooded.

I can say though that there is a vid I remember seeing some time back of
Ryan Niel doing this same process on a pine in England, at a
Work shop there... I remember because up until that time I was
Cutting quite literally "V" shape wedges and
Trying to line them back up, often with not so desirable results...
And then I saw this and was like hey, that makes since.

I will try and find the vid as well, or if someone else can post it, I am
Currently now typing from my phone and don't really know how to
Cut and paste links...

 

[A Random User]

Here is a neat little article from Jerry Meislik about lowering a thick branch - very similar technique with pictures. Thanks for this thread!

http://www.bonsaihunk.us/ficusforum/FicusTechniques/FigTechnique1.html

Thanks for sharing Jerry's way if doing it as well !!!
My only issue with the way Jerry is doing it would be
2 fold ... because he has chosen to cut the top, when healed
The top will always be the weakest point of the branch, and
If anything ever falls on the branch it has a better chance of
Breaking do to the limb not having any resistance below.
Now, tropicals do heal over wounds very well, so this can be done
And eventually this bond would possibly become strong
Enough.

The second point being, that if in the future you might want to
Lower this branch any further, you would end up further widening
The space making it not only more easily damaged, but also having
To make the tree work harder to heal over.

Not saying not to do it his way, though.... I just see where issues
Might arise with it... but having said that, they may not happen.
So again thanks for posting, any and all ideas ate welcome !

 

[Vin]

Thank you, thank you, thank you!! This is one I've been waiting for! Unfortunately, I won't be able to read it fully until tomorrow night. I have a function to attend this evening and work tomorrow until 6:00. I case I didn't say it; THANKS!

 

[A Random User]

I find a heavy wrap of Raffia works as well and was curious what you thought about it

Grimmy

I use to use just damp spagnum moss wrapped with a cut
Piece of t-shirt... doesn't really matter...
Often when a cut is made on a tree, the tree until it begins
To heal will dry out at this point, and cause further dying of
Tissue, which only makes the healing process harder.

So, in the short term I think it is best to cover up wounds, with
What ever method you choose. Then if you are worried about
Rot and long term damage caused by moisture, you can remove.

 

[A Random User]

Here is a link of the Ryan Niel vid...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6YbjFb60Uo

 

[Cadillactaste]

This could stand tagged to stay up front. Great information...that I would love to find at a later date.

Thanks for sharing!

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Here is a JBP branch that was "V" notched from the bottom to bend down. Peter Warren actually did this in April 2011, so this is how it looks 3 full years later. The effect was achieved; he was trying for a very angular look, and deliberately placed it further out on the branch to get it.

From the front, it is fine, although I am growing another branch in front of it to ultimately replace the notched branch. From above (last photo), it appears to be kinked and the technique created a bulge.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Here is a technique that I prefer, because the effect is natural. Kathy teaches it, I like to call it the "grip & rip". I was told that sap flow is stronger on the bottom of the branch, so it's less stressful.

Rather than notch from below, cut deeply from above at the "collar" of the branch, where it joins with the trunk. Then, carefully, and with control, break it downward until the right angle is achieved. I used a piece of chopstick to hold the break open on this JBP, and a guy-wire for a couple years until it held the position. The chopstick wedge is still there. This was done in the fall of '11, and the photos are from today; nearly 3 years later, and the branch is very sturdy.