The original poster is in Georgia,
@JesusFreak , I am not certain which of the California & Mediterranean oaks are hardy in the OP's area. I am in the suburbs, mid-way between Milwaukee & Chicago, could be a suburb of either city. I tried running Q. suber, cork oak, as a outdoors for summer, under lights for winter sub-tropical. I had poor results. Eventually the tree perished. Also tried the canyon live oak, or the live oak that grows in canyons outside Las Vegas, Nevada, that one lasted several years longer than Q suber, but eventually perished as indoor for winter, outdoors for summer sub-tropical. In Georgia, your summers are at least 50 to 90 days longer than my summer growing seasons, so the indoors for winter treatment might not be as rough on California oaks as my winters. But for northerners such as myself, I would only do Q. suber & the California live oaks if I had a cool, above freezing greenhouse. Otherwise go with locally hardy species.
But in general, given the above, I recommend for most people that they use species of oak, Quercus, that are fully winter hardy in their area. This means using species that are either native to their immediate environments or are native to colder areas of the country. For an extremely cold tolerant, common over a wide area Quercus I recommend Quercus macrocarpa - the Bur oak. Their best asset is they develop extremely thick, fissured, checked bark, that is quite attractive. They have the thickest bark of the northern oaks. They seem to adapt to container culture. And my winter protection only needs to be set the pot on the ground for the winter. My tree currently is not mulched, just setting on the ground in full sun, same spot it has spent the last 4 winters, and the same spot it has spent the last 4 summers. Drawbacks, the leaves are large, to very large on young seedlings. Good news is the leaves will reduce dramatically in size, with ramification. Leaves under 3 inches in length are easy with 3 levels of branching. I believe in an older tree it is possible to get leaves much smaller, possibly under 2 inches, maybe even smaller. Second draw back, seedlings are slow to trunk up in containers. And if planted in the ground, deep roots could make digging the tree up again quite difficult. Now they do eventually develop trunk caliper in containers, but it takes many more years than the same development for a maple would take.