Oh you reckon lol. Im not even going to go there! I've talked way too much about substrate for my short 4 years of Bonsai...
Watering BS
- Thread starter sorce
- Start date
Ah... I don’t know exactly how deep your pot is, so what I’m about to say may, or may not matter... But it did remind me of something...
The issues you describe where the top soil looks moist, but the soil deep down was dry is exactly the problem that has been found with those really tall cascade pots. And that’s why, today, their use is not recommended. Instead, shorter pots are used, and they are elevated by some kind of stand to lift the tree so the foliage can cascade down.
coh
Imperial Masterpiece
Hardly.
But, akadama could explain some differences. I believe Walter doesn't use it, right? Whereas all the Japanese trained apprentices do, and they're the ones who talk about how it takes years to learn how to water properly. Maybe it's because of the akadama they use. Not that it's a bad thing, just that it requires more careful watering than Walter's mix.
Now if you get one of those "bad batches" that turns to mush in a few months, that's another matter. I've never had that happen (yet).
JoeR
Masterpiece
This. Absolutely true, at least in my climate. I would expand further saying APL with too large of soil grain size. Yes it needs to be free draining but we need not be growing trees in orchid mix.
Used bonsaijack soil this year. Dries out to quickly or has too large of grain size, so I had to add sphagnum top dressing to all the pots this summer.
I also had a serissa with root rot from akadama...
coh
Imperial Masterpiece
Haven't people been griping about akadama turning to mush since the beginning of time? I started getting active on the forums a while before the tsunami (maybe 2009-2010 period, was definitely reading stuff if not actually posting) and I'm sure people were complaining about that. Always figured there were just variations in quality. Certainly the tsunami did have an impact and made things worse for a while.
JoeR
Masterpiece
I dont care what anyone says, brand (quality) of akadama DOES matter. I have tried two brands. One was mush within a year, and another lasts 2-3+ years. The latter specified high fired on the label. But akadama always degrades, just at different rates. This is a good thing until it reaches a point, where soil conditions rapidly decline. I like high fired akadama as a soil component when available for trees in show pots.
I also don't care for the sizes it comes in though. I have mostly smaller trees, 8-16" tall average. I feel the shohin size is way too fine, but the next up is too large. Haven't found a brand with the right size yet.
leatherback
The Treedeemer
Yeah I know that one. The swimmingpool at the bottom. This tree is in a wide shallow pot.
Really odd. But may have been a problem with shallow watering the day before mayheps.
JoeR
Masterpiece
I like pine bark for the same reason as akadama though: the roots actually grow IN the soil, whereas with just pumice or lava it may just grow into the pores on the outside. I believe this to be beneficial, maybe allowing for better connection between the roots and soil microbes (myco)
coh
Imperial Masterpiece
Maybe I've been lucky so far, started using akadama maybe 7-8 years ago? Trees that I've repotted that have been in Boon type mix for several years, I always find plenty of intact akadama particles. Some have broken down, but never to the point where it is a problem. Now, if I don't repot the tree for 10 or 20 years, maybe that would be different.
coh
Imperial Masterpiece
I have no issue with pine bark, and often add it to my mix. If akadama became unavailable I think I'd just increase the amount of bark (and maybe add something like DE and/or hort charcoal) to compensate.
I've seen roots grow in and through large chunks of lava, though not often. Posted a photo some years ago.
JoeR
Masterpiece
Yeah like I said, I think it really depends on the brand and weather. Our constant rain in the summer i believe is partly to blame for its degradation here. I have had trees in good akadama for probably 5 years though, with no problems. The cheapo brand I first bought had trees not make it through a season. No idea what the brand names were unfortunately. I dont believe there is a huge difference between using akadama or aged bark, as long as they're both sifted and clean. I do think an organic element to soil is beneficial though. The akadama may start sterile but after some time in a pot it serves a similar harboring effect as the bark does.
Honestly is there really any innately bad bonsai soil component besides peat? I hate peat... except for carnivores
Clicio
Masterpiece
And why is that so? Hating peat ?
JoeR
Masterpiece
Peat is OK in some instances, I use it for my carnivorous plants as it helps to buffer the pH and keep moisture.
For trees, in my yard, it stays too wet and if it dries out even once its ruined and stays hydrophobic. Maybe brand matters for peat like akadama, idk
River's Edge
Masterpiece
Most people sift the bag to remove fines and sort similar sizes. Quality is important just as when one buys any product. I live in a heavy rain area climate. Trees need repotting long before the akadama breaks down. Bark on the other hand decomposes much more quickly in my climate. Useful component if repotting frequently as in every two to three years and if it is properly sized and sifted as well. Also must pay attention to bark quality when purchasing, ton of work to get proper sized bark pieces. Way more wasted material than sifting quality akadama to size. Benefits to bark are PH balancing and moisture retention.
I have no problem with using quality components that work well for bonsai. Need to be realistic about the work involved in each type and the actual cost due to wastage and labour involved.
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