Weird Wedge in my Nursery Stock

[QuantumSparky]

I just bought a small Hinoki Cypress from a nursery and noticed a small wedge-like thing stuck into the trunk right by an old scar from a removed branch perhaps. Does anyone know why there would be a wedge in there? I'm not sure if I should try to remove it or not.

As a side note, I'd love to hear any styling tips you guys have for this tree!





In this image, the tree is leaning directly away from the camera, I'm likely choosing that side as the front but I won't make the decision until I can do some more light pruning and take a better look at the interior branch structure. As for styling, this is my first nursery stock and there are a few really long branches that I'm not quite sure what to do with.

 

[pak1351]

Looks like a graft

 

[Mike Westervelt]

Yep, the wedge was used to hold the scion tight to the rootstock.

 

[QuantumSparky]

So did I make a mistake in choosing this one? I don't really care if it's flawed, as it's essentially a practice tree for me. Would you guys recommend I try to remove the wedge or just leave it?

 

[ShadyStump]

Wedges are often left in permanently when used on large scale trees. The trunk just grows around them until it disappears. So, you have that option if you want to get the trunk really thick.

Otherwise, it looks like it'll damage the tree to try removing it.
How do these do with deadwood? You might be able to remove it and if the tree's damaged transform the spot into a vein of deadwood, effectively disguising the surgery as an intentional aesthetic choice.

 

[Forsoothe!]

Could be styled a little better so to bark could grow over it sooner. Nip off what sticks out with a knob cutter without getting any surrounding bark.

 

[Shibui]

I don't believe that is a wedge as such. As far as I am aware wedges are not used in grafting although the technique likely to have been used here is called 'side wedge graft' or 'side veneer graft' The wedge reference refers to the shape the scion is cut before inserting into the root stock. I use side wedge grafts for citrus, pines and Japanese maples but a little research shows that side veneer graft is used extensively to propagate conifers. - https://propg.ifas.ufl.edu/06-grafting/02-graftingtypes/13-grafting-sideveneer.html
The small dead section is the remainder of the root stock that was cut down after the graft healed and the growing root stock has almost swallowed the remainder of the stub. As @Forsoothe! has already said, the dead piece can be snipped off as close as you can get and the growing trunk will heal over the remains much quicker.

So did I make a mistake in choosing this one?

You can already see a slight difference in bark below and above the graft. That may or may not become more obvious as the trunk thickens.
I can also see that the trunk is just a little thicker around the graft site (reverse taper) as a result of scar tissue. Sometimes the trunk catches up and that disappears, sometimes the bulge gets more prominent and looks really ugly.
Whether this one will be good for bonsai as is remains to be seen.
There are remedies for all the problems that may occur and you have already told us the tree is mainly for practice so I would not see this purchase as a mistake.

 

[LeftHandLuke]

I won't make the decision until I can do some more light pruning and take a better look at the interior branch structure

I don't recommend choosing a face -- or doing much pruning with that intent -- until you have a good look at what kind of root flare you have under the soil. I tend to think the nebari has a major influence on choosing the face, with the first branches, etc., being second. I've been working with an obtusa for a few years now and I made that mistake initially. The front that I chose might have been different had a I taken a closer look at the root flare potential. Still making up my mind, though. Good luck!

 

[QuantumSparky]

I don't recommend choosing a face -- or doing much pruning with that intent -- until you have a good look at what kind of root flare you have under the soil. I tend to think the nebari has a major influence on choosing the face, with the first branches, etc., being second. I've been working with an obtusa for a few years now and I made that mistake initially. The front that I chose might have been different had a I taken a closer look at the root flare potential. Still making up my mind, though. Good luck!

What do you mean by that? I don't know much about nebari - I thought the tree either has visible roots or it doesn't. Are you saying it's possible to influence the visibility of surface roots?

 

[LeftHandLuke]

What do you mean by that?

No... There's probably a bunch of that already there, but it's hidden. You got to explore that soil around the base and see what's underneath. You probably have some interesting flare and taper under there. It's really not the best time of year to be probing around too much, disturbing roots (others may disagree), but if you're reasonably careful you can brush away that dirt to get an idea. Later, when you get it into a new pot with proper soil, you'll be able to get a much better view.

 

[LeftHandLuke]

I thought the tree either has visible roots or it doesn't.

Here you go, my friend... before and after shots taken pretty much a year apart. The first shot is what I chose as the face. A year later, the second shot shows some kick-ass root flare discovered during repotting.

 

[Shibui]

Are you saying it's possible to influence the visibility of surface roots?

Very definitely., It is one of the things we bonsai people do to change how the trees look. Visible surface roots can instantly make a tree look older as that's what happens in nature.
Planting a little higher will show the surface roots. Deeper will bury them.
Some trees only have upper roots on one side of the trunk. Not so good for bonsai where we prefer the tree to look stable with roots right round. Sometimes a few roots can be removed until there is a better all round root system. Sometimes the trunk can be tilted one way or another so the surface roots are all at ground level. At more advanced level roots can be grafted or induced to grow if required to make better show of roots. layering is another technique to grow new roots anywhere on a trunk.

As mentioned it is a shame to design a great looking bonsai then discover the roots look terrible from that front. Always check roots before making style decisions.
You can remove surface soil at any time of year to check on upper roots. If they seem lopsided it may be better to wait for repotting season to look further and make decisions about root removal or other techniques.