What a difference a pot makes!

Adair M

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I’ve had this Japanese Maple a couple years now. I purchased from a guy who was getting out of bonsai. He had it in this plastic pot that he had drilled holes in the side to try to make it act like a colander. I don’t think it worked.

It’s frustrated me because when it grows out, it makes long internodes. It looks like it used to have larger branches, and they were removed, and we’re looking at a second set. I cut it back pretty hard last fall, so hopefully it will back bud this spring.

Here’s the before pictures:

61466437-983E-437D-BA5E-A6F10D6C705E.jpeg

68050E5B-3C32-47EE-AF24-7D98A7139909.jpeg

And now, for the “After”:

E1AB995C-8655-4DAD-89B8-F37CF7FAB2E8.jpeg

What I found as I repotted it was it had been WAY over potted. With coarse soil with no akadama. This coarse soil promoted lots of root growth, and when you have unrestrained root growth, you get long internodes and large leaves.

One of the things about akadama is it promotes small leaves and short internodes. Why? It breaks down. And when it breaks down, the space between particles gets smaller. This encourages (forces?) smaller roots. So, rather than long runner type roots, the tree makes fiber systems of feeder roots. Up top, the tree doesn’t send out long shoots, instead the growth remains constrained, with smaller leaves and shorter internodes.

When you want strong growth, use a coarse, open soil. No akadama. When you want to begin refinement, that’s when to start using akadama.

Oh, the pot? It’s Taiwanese. Not very expensive, but fun!
 

Adair M

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I’ve had this Japanese Maple a couple years now. I purchased from a guy who was getting out of bonsai. He had it in this plastic pot that he had drilled holes in the side to try to make it act like a colander. I don’t think it worked.

It’s frustrated me because when it grows out, it makes long internodes. It looks like it used to have larger branches, and they were removed, and we’re looking at a second set. I cut it back pretty hard last fall, so hopefully it will back bud this spring.

Here’s the before pictures:

View attachment 362807

View attachment 362806

And now, for the “After”:

View attachment 362808

What I found as I repotted it was it had been WAY over potted. With coarse soil with no akadama. This coarse soil promoted lots of root growth, and when you have unrestrained root growth, you get long internodes and large leaves.

One of the things about akadama is it promotes small leaves and short internodes. Why? It breaks down. And when it breaks down, the space between particles gets smaller. This encourages (forces?) smaller roots. So, rather than long runner type roots, the tree makes fiber systems of feeder roots. Up top, the tree doesn’t send out long shoots, instead the growth remains constrained, with smaller leaves and shorter internodes.

When you want strong growth, use a coarse, open soil. No akadama. When you want to begin refinement, that’s when to start using akadama.

Oh, the pot? It’s Taiwanese. Not very expensive, but fun!
Oops! The pictures posted in the wrong order! Don’t know why.
 

Adair M

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Cool tree and good info thanks! Pot would have to grow on me though...
Lol!!! Yeah, it’s a little bold. The tree is still a work in progress, so it’s not going to be shown in that pot.

I’m hoping that using it will put a bit of patina on the pot which will soften the colors a bit.
 

HorseloverFat

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I had thought, “The reading says it WAS over-potted.... so you put it in that bigger, plastic pot?.. I liked it better before.. shame.” 🤣🤣

It all makes sense now!

Fantastic tree, Adair... the pot really does something fun and special here.

🤓
 

leatherback

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soo.. are you planning on cutting the branches off at some point? Or work with what is there?
 

LanceMac10

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I’ve had this Japanese Maple a couple years now. I purchased from a guy who was getting out of bonsai. He had it in this plastic pot that he had drilled holes in the side to try to make it act like a colander. I don’t think it worked.

It’s frustrated me because when it grows out, it makes long internodes. It looks like it used to have larger branches, and they were removed, and we’re looking at a second set. I cut it back pretty hard last fall, so hopefully it will back bud this spring.

Here’s the before pictures:

View attachment 362807

View attachment 362806

And now, for the “After”:

View attachment 362808

What I found as I repotted it was it had been WAY over potted. With coarse soil with no akadama. This coarse soil promoted lots of root growth, and when you have unrestrained root growth, you get long internodes and large leaves.

One of the things about akadama is it promotes small leaves and short internodes. Why? It breaks down. And when it breaks down, the space between particles gets smaller. This encourages (forces?) smaller roots. So, rather than long runner type roots, the tree makes fiber systems of feeder roots. Up top, the tree doesn’t send out long shoots, instead the growth remains constrained, with smaller leaves and shorter internodes.

When you want strong growth, use a coarse, open soil. No akadama. When you want to begin refinement, that’s when to start using akadama.

Oh, the pot? It’s Taiwanese. Not very expensive, but fun!


That'll put some color on those 2x4's!!!!:cool:🤤🤤🤤🤤

Sure, could use a little weathering, nice "pop" right now, though.😁

Great little JM.
 

Adair M

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soo.. are you planning on cutting the branches off at some point? Or work with what is there?
I’ve been cutting them back. They pop buds back closer to the trunk, and I let those develop for a year, then if possible, cut back to them.

I’m thinking that this year I shouldn’t get such rank growth. I did a complete bare root repot, and cut off lots of long, circling roots. I should get naturally shorter internodes. And I’ll continue to remove sections with old long internodes. This will build taper in the branches, too. Taper in branches is just as important as taper in the trunk.

Of course, we’ll just have to see how it acts this spring. I think I know how it will respond, but it might not!

As I said, I was frustrated with it before because it didn’t act like I was expecting it to. But, upon repotting it, I determined that the pot was WAY too big, and the soil was coarse when promoted the wrong kind of growth. I’ve changed that now, and I’m hoping it makes a difference. I’ll find out one way or the other!
 

Shibui

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I’m thinking that this year I shouldn’t get such rank growth. I did a complete bare root repot, and cut off lots of long, circling roots. I should get naturally shorter internodes.
I find most of my trees respond just the opposite. Root pruning provides fresh soil and plenty of room for new feeder roots so growth after repot is stronger than before. It will be interesting to see what you get.

And I’ll continue to remove sections with old long internodes. This will build taper in the branches, too. Taper in branches is just as important as taper in the trunk.
This is important in all bonsai whether they be maple, oak or conifer and I think the techniques to manage it are pretty similar too.

My best results when refining JM come from summer pruning. Regrowth after summer pruning tend to be more restrained so internodes are usually shorter. I now regularly remove all new spring growth with long internodes some time in late spring or early summer and get much better regrowth to build ramification.
See what sort of growth you get this spring but consider late spring/summer pruning to remove any long internodes that may develop.

JM thicken quickly where multiple shoots are close together, even small shoots will cause a problem, not only when growing but scarring after pruning also causes thickening. JM have a strong tendency to produce clusters of extra shoots, especially after pruning but often just spontaneously. I now look closely under leaves to try to spot new shoots growing from the trunk and major branches. Those are rubbed of as soon as possible before causing problems. End of branches after pruning is another place to watch for clusters of new shoots.
 

Paradox

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What I found as I repotted it was it had been WAY over potted. With coarse soil with no akadama. This coarse soil promoted lots of root growth, and when you have unrestrained root growth, you get long internodes and large leaves.

One of the things about akadama is it promotes small leaves and short internodes. Why? It breaks down. And when it breaks down, the space between particles gets smaller. This encourages (forces?) smaller roots. So, rather than long runner type roots, the tree makes fiber systems of feeder roots. Up top, the tree doesn’t send out long shoots, instead the growth remains constrained, with smaller leaves and shorter internodes.

When you want strong growth, use a coarse, open soil. No akadama. When you want to begin refinement, that’s when to start using akadama.

Nice little tree
Couple of questions if you please
Do you mean you are just adding it to the mix? Cause that first picture doesnt look like 100% akadama?
What mixture do you use for maples and is it the same for Japanese maples and tridents?
 
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