What can I do with this JBP?

[Dingobattler]

Greetings from Melbourne,

I'm pretty new to bonsai. Picked this JBP up, seller said it was about 4-6 years, grown in the ground, but meant for bonsai. The trunk diameter is around 9cm (3.5") and the nebari is roughly 14cm (5.5"), and there's nice taper. I'm happy with the trunk size, and don't aim to grow it any bigger at all. He did a trunk chop just before the third whorl, 40cm (15") high, diameter at roughly 4cm (1.5") Tree seems very healthy and vigorous, on the stronger branches, there are places where there are up to 4 candles. However, on the weak areas,

What I originally had in my mind is the sterotypical JBP Miyogi, massive trunk, pads, and a tapering S curve. However, there are issues with this tree. The branches are only growing extremely strongly on a single plane. On the other plane, one side is completely bare (as per the photo), and the other side is extremely weak, choked out almost completely. There are a few small buds on the bare side.

Even worse, the only direction with a curve and the thickest nebari has the strong branches facing forward and back (as outlined in red below)

The options I can think of are:

1) Use one or the forward facing branches (circled in red) on the second whorl as the new leader. Issue is that IMO (hoping for some feedback here), its a bit too thick to wire upwards, and the trunk behind it is blocking it? (Not sure how far down I can cut the trunk? I'm afraid the the dieback will kill the second whorl). I'll use the secondary branches off the new leader to create my new branches. Cut off the other thick branch facing to the rear. Issue is lack of healthy branches sideways on the first whorl. That'll create nothing but bare trunk for the first 20cm, which looks bad.

2) Cut off the strong forward facing branches, and pray the the buds on the bare side eventually create branches. Continue the tree from there, and grow the rest of the tree from buds - I think this is the least feasible, and will most likely kill the tree

3) Ignore the curve, grow it in the formal upright style, or some other style, or if you guys have a better suggestion.

Leaning towards option 1, but not sure if feasible. Would appreciate feedback. Feeling very lost.

 

[BunjaeKorea]

You dont have much to work with.

 

[sorce]

You guys are well into spring yes?

It doesn't look as healthy as it should IMO.
Reckon leaving it be might be best.

Stay lost for a season!
Just fert the dirt. Fish the dish!

Sorce

 

[River's Edge]

Greetings from Melbourne,

I'm pretty new to bonsai. Picked this JBP up, seller said it was about 4-6 years, grown in the ground, but meant for bonsai. The trunk diameter is around 9cm (3.5") and the nebari is roughly 14cm (5.5"), and there's nice taper. I'm happy with the trunk size, and don't aim to grow it any bigger at all. He did a trunk chop just before the third whorl, 40cm (15") high, diameter at roughly 4cm (1.5") Tree seems very healthy and vigorous, on the stronger branches, there are places where there are up to 4 candles. However, on the weak areas,

What I originally had in my mind is the sterotypical JBP Miyogi, massive trunk, pads, and a tapering S curve. However, there are issues with this tree. The branches are only growing extremely strongly on a single plane. On the other plane, one side is completely bare (as per the photo), and the other side is extremely weak, choked out almost completely. There are a few small buds on the bare side.

Even worse, the only direction with a curve and the thickest nebari has the strong branches facing forward and back (as outlined in red below)

The options I can think of are:

1) Use one or the forward facing branches (circled in red) on the second whorl as the new leader. Issue is that IMO (hoping for some feedback here), its a bit too thick to wire upwards, and the trunk behind it is blocking it? (Not sure how far down I can cut the trunk? I'm afraid the the dieback will kill the second whorl). I'll use the secondary branches off the new leader to create my new branches. Cut off the other thick branch facing to the rear. Issue is lack of healthy branches sideways on the first whorl. That'll create nothing but bare trunk for the first 20cm, which looks bad.

2) Cut off the strong forward facing branches, and pray the the buds on the bare side eventually create branches. Continue the tree from there, and grow the rest of the tree from buds - I think this is the least feasible, and will most likely kill the tree

3) Ignore the curve, grow it in the formal upright style, or some other style, or if you guys have a better suggestion.

Leaning towards option 1, but not sure if feasible. Would appreciate feedback. Feeling very lost.

Remove all dead needles and wire branches apart to allow light in to the interior.
Fertilize and water to strengthen the tree for working in the fall/winter!
Prepare for a repot next spring!
Only remove branch or foliage if it is creating a problem on the trunk or shading a weak area that is important long term.
Short answer, best approach is to get the tree as healthy as possible before working or repotting!
When looking for the next tree consider one with more movement that is healthier to begin with.

 

[Dingobattler]

Thanks for the replies, much appreciated. Next week is summer for us, but still pretty cold here. I'll follow the advice to get rid of the dead needles and thin out some from the stronger areas to get light into the interior and weak spots. Hopefully it back buds, and I'll have more material I can work with.

To be fair, the seller did warn me that this'll be very hard work.

 

[Dingobattler]

Cleared the dead needles, decandled all the stronger branches, and wired them away from the weak areas. Looks much clearer now. The bottle is roughly the size of a coke can. The trunk is a nice size, but the issue is everything else. Looks like I might need to cut back to the first whorl eventually. Hope to work on it next year. Any further comments? Thanks.

 

[Potawatomi13]

Any angle with some trunk movement?

 

[River's Edge]

Cleared the dead needles, decandled all the stronger branches, and wired them away from the weak areas. Looks much clearer now. The bottle is roughly the size of a coke can. The trunk is a nice size, but the issue is everything else. Looks like I might need to cut back to the first whorl eventually. Hope to work on it next year. Any further comments? Thanks.

Water and fertilise on a regular basis.
Study the branching at the second whorl carefully to decide which branch would make the best new apical leader and create the best movement flow from the trunk. Also look for a second branch that will move downwards away from the new leader to create a first branch. Retaining other branches for fall back design or sacrifice.
It will be important to reduce the stronger branches at this site to prevent developing a bulge or reverse taper. For this reason i typically retain smaller branches that are easier to wire for direction and movement.
It is hard with only two pictures to work with and no clear view of the trunk line.
That being said i would look at shortening the two thicker branches emerging from that area ( second whorl ) down to where they have smaller branches emerging near the trunk.
You are looking for the best new apical leader and one other for a downward movement ( possible first branch )
I have attached a picture that shows this approach on one of my developing JBP.

 

[Dingobattler]

Thanks for the responses. I cut the strongest branches back and took this photo. This photo shows the most movement. There is some movement to the left. I was thinking Now of using the word branch as the new leader. Thoughts?

 

[River's Edge]

Thanks for the responses. I cut the strongest branches back and took this photo. This photo shows the most movement. There is some movement to the left. I was thinking Now of using the word branch as the new leader. Thoughts?

Nice to see some movement! That may be a reasonable choice. You have lots of time to decide, so i would become familiar with the flare and nebari before deciding. Stronger roots in certain directions may influence the decision.