What common-practices do you do differently than most, and why?

SU2

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There's such myriad growing-situations that things can be all over the place and people find themselves "breaking the norms" for their particular use-cases, anyways I was hoping to get people's specific "divergences from norm" just to get an idea of things, thank you!!!!

For me, some things I do that I feel are pretty unique are:

- I basically *never* wire something into a pot, I just re-potted a ~4' tall BC and the idea of wiring it in never crossed my mind, in years of this approach I've only had a few circumstances where wiring-in may've been advantageous, and that's when something's knocked-off the bench (always a smaller specimen), the tree & substrate all fall-out but I figure if they were tied-in then much more would stay, though this benefit just doesn't seem worth the time of wiring-in every tree as-practice! I do wire sometimes but it's exclusively in situations wherein the tree simply won't sit properly at the soil-line w/o some form of anchoring (and I'll wire it in here OR do something like using rocks to support/stabilize it and/or zip-ties to get it snug!)

- zip-ties are virtually indispensable to me, I love wiring and wish I had more time to wire more-often, but while many zip-ties in my garden are simply used instead of wiring to save time (often I'm just trying to set-shape on the first few inches of a branch, not wire the whole thing, as most trees are in early-development), I actually find zip-ties **superior to wire** for lots of scenarios, for instance things like heavy-bends, the ability to use the small, incremental tightening of a zip-ties is just so much easier to dial-in the branch's orientation in a way I just cannot do with wire (often this is in-tandem with wiring and/or hanging a large/heavy rock from the branch)

- I've begun using, and loving, styrofoam as both an aggregate and as containers, the former because after processing you have a ~0% WHC / CEC, fluffy media that weighs next-to-nothing, am using it at as high as 50%+ in the bottom 1/3-->1/2 of a container when re-potting, and recently I did my first re-pot of something that'd already gone half a season in the stuff and I was incredibly impressed with its roots (I suspect that, when talking of an aggregate's physical properties that there's an attribute never-ever mentioned and that is "how flexible is the media?" and, while I can only guess/theorize on it, something tells me a squishier media is better, the roots can compress/squeeze the pieces a bit as they grow and 'squeeze' it w/o any significant changes to overall soil-structure, and so far as using them as planters I am just in-love with them, they're both rigid & lightweight, and their soft nature lets you create *whatever* level of drainage-holes or perched-table-holes you'd like!!)

I've got so many more but figured those were good to helpfully get the ball rolling, thanks a ton for any replies!!!! :)
 

AZbonsai

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Zip ties and styrofoam are definitely new ones to me. Interesting. I use hydrotone as a substrate for some of my trees. Basically because I had a ton of it sitting around from my hydroponic days. Other than that I try to stay pretty conventional. I am part of the southwestern dessert bonsai folks so we are trying to experiment more with southwestern varieties of trees if you can count that.
 

Anthony

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Compost.

Heavy soil ingredients - Note - most plants are 12 to 15 inches
tall or wide.

Repotting that involves cutting off a % of the old soil.
Requires that the plant be first potbound.

Shape left on the soil is too heavy to blow over and
wires are not needed to tie the tree down.

Have shifted to two weeks in bright light, was one week.
Test plants Ficus p. Have roots running through the soil.
Recovery - seems - to be faster.

Well over 300 plants and still using watering cans.
Watering by observation.
Enough to start a fight SU2o_O:)
Good Day
Anthony
 

Nybonsai12

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What I do different:
I start seeds in the middle of winter in my basement on heat mats under grow lights instead of waiting until the appropriate time.

Why I do it:
Cuz I like to party.
 

Smoke

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I tie trees into pots with no soil under.

I start pruning shoots as soon as they emerge from the buds.

I use bark in my soil.

I don’t use akadama any longer.

I orient my trees forward but keep the apex well within the pot

I inject fertilzer year round.
 

Mike Hennigan

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Sounds like some Florida ingenuity to me. Using rocks instead of wiring in and using styrofoam as soil, live and let live I suppose!
 

Bonsai Nut

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Here's a common practice that I do... I use acid fertilizer on ALL of my trees, even trees (like junipers) that are supposed to be alkaline soil tolerant.

The reason WHY I do it is because our water is so alkaline, it ranges from 8.0 to 8.5 pH. I started doing it at the recommendation of a fellow bonsai artist who I highly respect (Tom Vuong) after I talked to him about problems I had been having keeping trident maples in Southern Cal.

This practice would definitely not work for everyone, depending on your water pH. I think it is a good example of "the same rules don't always apply everywhere". In an area with acidic water, it might even be harmful.
 

VAFisher

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I tie trees into pots with no soil under.

I strated doing that too after reading one of your posts. Works pretty well.

My soil mix is lava, pine bark and turface.

I repot in the fall if the mood strikes. My trees spend winter in the garage so I haven't had any issues with fall repots.
 
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You plant your trees in styrofoam without wiring them into their equally styrofoam pots and they don't topple SU2? How does that happen? That must be magic lol.

When I wanna guy wire a straight/unshaped branch I like to wire it with regular wire for shape and then guy wire it to get the angle from the trunk just right.
No idea if that's common practise but just a lil something I like to do and don't see very often (if at all).
 

Adair M

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You plant your trees in styrofoam without wiring them into their equally styrofoam pots and they don't topple SU2? How does that happen? That must be magic lol.

When I wanna guy wire a straight/unshaped branch I like to wire it with regular wire for shape and then guy wire it to get the angle from the trunk just right.
No idea if that's common practise but just a lil something I like to do and don't see very often (if at all).
That is the correct way to use guy wire. Guy wires can only pull in one direction. Traditional spiral wiring allows you to put movement into the branch as well as direction.
 

Adair M

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I tie trees into pots with no soil under.

I start pruning shoots as soon as they emerge from the buds.

I use bark in my soil.

I don’t use akadama any longer.

I orient my trees forward but keep the apex well within the pot

I inject fertilzer year round.
@Smoke, about your pruning shoots as soon as they emerge... do you do that on your tridents? I trim the leader on Japanese Maple as soon as they emerge, but I let Tridents extend. And come back and cut back short later. The reason for this is I’ve found that trimming the leader on a Trident will build a knob if you repeatedly pinch back at the same location.
 

Dav4

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Here's a common practice that I do... I use acid fertilizer on ALL of my trees, even trees (like junipers) that are supposed to be alkaline soil tolerant.

The reason WHY I do it is because our water is so alkaline, it ranges from 8.0 to 8.5 pH. I started doing it at the recommendation of a fellow bonsai artist who I highly respect (Tom Vuong) after I talked to him about problems I had been having keeping trident maples in Southern Cal.

This practice would definitely not work for everyone, depending on your water pH. I think it is a good example of "the same rules don't always apply everywhere". In an area with acidic water, it might even be harmful.
I use the acid ferts for everything, too... and I shower with my clothes on...
 

Shinjuku

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I use Fi-Shock aluminum 17 gauge electric fence wire instead of bonsai wire because it’s only $4.67 for 250 feet on Amazon. When I need thicker wire, I use the real stuff.

I also buy saucers and bowls at Goodwill for about $1.00 each and drill holes in the bottom with a diamond tip bit for bonsai pots. When my wife sees me “make” $1 bonsai pots, she’s more agreeable to me sometimes buying nice bonsai pots.
 

amcoffeegirl

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I also use bark in my soil. - maybe not so odd since they are tropicals.
I grow out of my zone
I plant my trees in fantastic pots even as pre bonsai
I still mispronounce bonsai quite often
I listen to advice being given by people who have done it before and who’s trees I admire. - way out of mainstream perhaps.
 
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