What fungicide do you use?

Yo Mango

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I’ve been using at times both direct fungicide and systemic fungicide from Bonide. I usually don’t see much improvement and have to take other measures.

Maybe folks are getting better results with other brands and types, so I was curious what other bonsai nuts use and if you can share thoughts and feedback here. Thanks!
 

Bnana

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Mancozeb has been banned in the EU as it has been linked to Parkinson's disease. I don't know the current state of the active compounds of Bionide but think it's being phased out as it causes birth defects and other health risks.

I do like my trees but I like my family and myself more.
 

bwaynef

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I have & have used Zerotol, Daconil, Thiophonate Methyl (in varying products), Captan, Mancozeb, Myclobutanil, Copper, Phyton27, and Propiconazole. Neem is also somewhat fungicidal ...and a mix of milk & water is an effective treatment for powdery mildew. Lime sulfur and Horticultural Oil are other products I've used that list fungicidal properties.

So far this year I've only applied ThioMyl (Infuse Granular) ...about 6 weeks ago. I'll probably make an application of Daconil in an effort to prevent needlecast soon, and a few weeks after refresh the Thiomyl/Infuse Granular as well. Years past I would've sprayed Mancozeb preventively on junipers, but I think I'm going to let it ride until I see issues.

After dormant season sprays (Oil & LS) and a move to full-sun (or close to it), I'm noticing a LOT LESS disease pressure (though not necessarily none) this year. Oh, and better spacing/placement of/between trees as well. (Fast draining, inorganic soil is beneficial as well.) Preventing conditions that lead to the need for fungicides is better than having to figure out what disease you're dealing with, then figuring out what spray (EFFECTIVELY) treats that disease, ...and then figuring out what you have to don to safely apply the spray. I get that its not always possible to eliminate the disease pressure due to locale, ...but I think its worth doing the things that you can.
 

Paradox

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Bonide Infuse granules for a systemic fungicide

Copper spray and Daconil spray
 

Yo Mango

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Mancozeb has been banned in the EU as it has been linked to Parkinson's disease. I don't know the current state of the active compounds of Bionide but think it's being phased out as it causes birth defects and other health risks.

I do like my trees but I like my family and myself more.
I have & have used Zerotol, Daconil, Thiophonate Methyl (in varying products), Captan, Mancozeb, Myclobutanil, Copper, Phyton27, and Propiconazole. Neem is also somewhat fungicidal ...and a mix of milk & water is an effective treatment for powdery mildew. Lime sulfur and Horticultural Oil are other products I've used that list fungicidal properties.

So far this year I've only applied ThioMyl (Infuse Granular) ...about 6 weeks ago. I'll probably make an application of Daconil in an effort to prevent needlecast soon, and a few weeks after refresh the Thiomyl/Infuse Granular as well. Years past I would've sprayed Mancozeb preventively on junipers, but I think I'm going to let it ride until I see issues.

After dormant season sprays (Oil & LS) and a move to full-sun (or close to it), I'm noticing a LOT LESS disease pressure (though not necessarily none) this year. Oh, and better spacing/placement of/between trees as well. (Fast draining, inorganic soil is beneficial as well.) Preventing conditions that lead to the need for fungicides is better than having to figure out what disease you're dealing with, then figuring out what spray (EFFECTIVELY) treats that disease, ...and then figuring out what you have to don to safely apply the spray. I get that its not always possible to eliminate the disease pressure due to locale, ...but I think its worth doing the things that you can.
Wow… great info and sharing. Thanks!
 

Lorax7

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This question is kind of like asking a physician, "What antibiotic do you use for your patients?" The only correct answer is, "It depends."

What species of tree is it? What kind of fungus do you think it has (or, if using it prophylactically, what type of fungus are you expecting but hoping to prevent)? If the problem has been going on for a while, what have you been using previously and is that still working (if not, maybe it's time to switch it up and try something else)?
 

Yo Mango

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This question is kind of like asking a physician, "What antibiotic do you use for your patients?" The only correct answer is, "It depends."

What species of tree is it? What kind of fungus do you think it has (or, if using it prophylactically, what type of fungus are you expecting but hoping to prevent)? If the problem has been going on for a while, what have you been using previously and is that still working (if not, maybe it's time to switch it up and try something else)?
I fighting at the moment powdery mildew on my premna without much success using copper sulfate. But I was also wanting to hear from others their experience in general.
 

penumbra

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I fighting at the moment powdery mildew on my premna without much success using copper sulfate. But I was also wanting to hear from others their experience in general.
Where are you? I am curious what kind of climate you have.
 

Tums

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What dosage of infuse do people use for their pots? I think I read the label and didn't see instructions for potted plants.
 

bwaynef

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I fighting at the moment powdery mildew on my premna without much success using copper sulfate. But I was also wanting to hear from others their experience in general.
Here's the output of a search for mildew of the fungicides I've bothered to read the labels on:
grep -i mildew *.txt

actinovate.txt:Downy Mildew
actinovate.txt:powdery Mildew
agriphos.txt:Downy Mildew
azoxystrobin.txt:powdery Mildew
bacillus-amyloliquefaciens.txt:Downy Mildew
bacillus-amyloliquefaciens.txt:powdery Mildew
bacillus-subtillis.txt:Downy Mildew
bacillus-subtillis.txt:powdery Mildew
biophospro.txt:Downy Mildew
biophospro.txt:Downy Mildew Blackrot
biophospro.txt:powdery Mildew
biosafe.txt:Downy Mildew
biosafe.txt:powdery Mildew
captan.txt:Downy Mildew
chlorothalanil.txt:powdery Mildew
clearys3336.txt:powdery Mildew (Erysiphe)
copper.txt:Downy Mildew
copper.txt:phytophthora Mildew
copper.txt:powdery Mildew
daconil.txt:powdery Mildew
dormantoil.txt:powdery Mildew
gardenphos.txt:Downy Mildew
heritage.txt:powdery Mildew
immunox.txt:powdery Mildew
infusegranular.txt:powdery Mildew (Erysiphe)
infuseliquid.txt:powdery Mildew
infuseliquid.txt:Rust Powdery Mildew
mancozeb.txt:Downy Mildew
mefenoxam.txt:Downy Mildew
myclobutanil.txt:powdery Mildew
neem.txt:Downy Mildew
neem.txt:powdery Mildew
phyton27.txt:Downy Mildew
phyton27.txt:powdery Mildew
phyton35.txt:Downy Mildew
phyton35.txt:powdery Mildew
potassium-bicarb.txt:Downy Mildew
potassium-bicarb.txt:powdery Mildew
potassiumsalts-PhosAcid.txt:Downy Mildew
propiconazole.txt:powdery Mildew
propiconazole.txt:Rust Powdery Mildew
serenade.txt:powdery Mildew
subdue.txt:Downy Mildew
sulfur.txt:powdery Mildew
thiomyl.txt:powdery Mildew (Erysiphe)
zerotol.txt:Downy Mildew
zerotol.txt:powdery Mildew
 

bwaynef

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There's a : and either a D or P in the output given above. Apologies for appearing to emote exessively.
 

badatusernames

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I'm just getting into preventative maintenance this year so this is of interest. I picked up some Cleary's 3336 for foliar based on the Bjorn video on Bonsai U. The Infuse I ordered came in liquid form, I thought I had ordered the systemic.

Is it not a good idea to apply the systemic later in the season?
 
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