What inspired me to root a branch...need advice please

[Cadillactaste]

I am attaching a photo of a weeping Taramix...and a few photos of what I now have. (Far from a bonsai)

1) at what point does one put something they are rooting into soil?

2) should I winter this in a cold place or keep this in the house while the roots are still young? Still have it in water...at the moment.

3)The reason for the braided trunk was to get the trunk to have a similar appearance at the top. Was also hoping to make trunk appear thicker sooner...but curious if I should unbraid it. What are your opinions?

Got some good advice googling...you can't wire these until the newly formed branch turns brown...or it will fall off. (That sensitive)

 

[MrFancyPlants]

I would vote for unbraiding.. even for the notorious braided ficus, which is known for fusing well, the signs of it having been braided never go away and always looks unnatural.

 

[GrimLore]

I vote to unbraid - an option there is to bind them tightly together with natural raffia but not braided. After it grows and they do bind I would then attempt to create a new set of roots further up to cultivate a good heavy base. Hope you have time

 

[Cadillactaste]

I would vote for unbraiding.. even for the notorious braided ficus, which is known for fusing well, the signs of it having been braided never go away and always looks unnatural.

Appreciate your advice...I have been leaning in that direction myself. This particular shrub/tree I don't think is ever braided. The more I think that...the more I shake my head at braiding it...

 

[Cadillactaste]

I vote to unbraid - an option there is to bind them tightly together with natural raffia but not braided. After it grows and they do bind I would then attempt to create a new set of roots further up to cultivate a good heavy base. Hope you have time

I may have raffia...if not should I wait to unbraid until I get some? Wrapping it snug...that is doable...thanks!

 

[GrimLore]

I may have raffia...if not should I wait to unbraid until I get some? Wrapping it snug...that is doable...thanks!

If those parts are pliable unwrap them so they do not start taking that twisted shape. Obtain the natural raffia ribbon and bind them as tightly and as straight as possible. Some plants bind fast but I am uncertain of that one. Just be concerned to do that on as much of that as is possible without breaking them. At that point plant and wait. Once they are bound and growing properly is when I would attempt to tourniquet off a new base and roots. Again I am not certain how well that plant will handle it but I do know I am starting the same project in Spring with Curly Weeping Willow and Wisteria.

 

[Eric Group]

To answer your first question, it looks like you have enough roots started to plant it in soil to me... In your climate, I assume you have pretty hash winters, but I admit I know nothing about that type of plant... Still probably protecting it from hard freezes in a place where it gets sunlight and enough water to keep it happy is going to be your best over winter conditions!

Those weeping styles at snot my favorite, so I haven't worked with your tree before, might want to check and make sure it works well in your climate... Good luck!

 

[Neli]

I would not bind it with raffia. You will not gain much of girth, and you never know how long it will take for them to fuse. I would unbride it now, use one branch as a leader and another as possibly first branch if the first part of the trunk is too tall, I might ground layer it later. If I have to plant it now, I would use well sieved river sand, or bonsai soil...not ordinary soil, and keep it over winter at home in a sunny window.

 

[Poink88]

If this is mine, I will cut it down to half (total from top to bottom) to have shorter branches...then un-braid and plant in "soil"/substrate. This will encourage lower sprouts/branches. I too don't have experience with this variety but will opt to keep it inside this winter unless someone advise otherwise.

Good luck!

 

[Cadillactaste]

Thanks everyone...I was on the same thought as to cutting it shorter...and did so. Another reason I braided it was I had three branches...but now that it is upbraided...I totally hate the position of one...I think the two with the branches on the same side...one needs to go. Which one though...upper or lower branch?

 

[Poink88]

I'd remove the middle one and shorten the lower one a bit more.

 

[Cadillactaste]

I'd remove the middle one and shorten the lower one a bit more.

Thanks!

Do you think if this is planted right...it could look like a multi trunk? Worth trying? I know the branch needs to be low...to the soil area. (If I'm even calling it the right term) so new at this...

Also...should I hold off and order those concave trimmers for this project goes any further...and remove them with said concave trimmer?

 

[Poink88]

If you want multi-trunk (clump) then you need to elevate the root system by basically ground layering. Your plant is just starting so I'll do that later. It is very easy, you just apply tourniquet below the lowest branch and let it root above.

If that is your goal then you do not need to cut any of these for now.

Using concave cutter is nice but not a requirement. You can use sharp scissors ...just leave a stub due to possible die back (crushed bark & damaged cambium). It really depends on how sharp/blunt your scissor is. If you have thin bladed scissors, that will work better. You can do clean up with a sharp knife or chisel after.

 

[Cadillactaste]

If you want multi-trunk (clump) then you need to elevate the root system by basically ground layering. Your plant is just starting so I'll do that later. It is very easy, you just apply tourniquet below the lowest branch and let it root above.

If that is your goal then you do not need to cut any of these for now.

Using concave cutter is nice but not a requirement. You can use sharp scissors ...just leave a stub due to possible die back (crushed bark & damaged cambium). It really depends on how sharp/blunt your scissor is. If you have thin bladed scissors, that will work better. You can do clean up with a sharp knife or chisel after.

Hm-mmm something to think about then...I have new pruners for the garden...but...really like the look of the healed scar that concave trimmers give a tree.

 

[GrimLore]

Is that the Deciduous or Evergreen variety? For the record it is considered invasive either way Also would it not be far easier to keep it in a decent size terra cotta pot for the 3-4 years you will be working on it

 

[Cadillactaste]

Is that the Deciduous or Evergreen variety? For the record it is considered invasive either way Also would it not be far easier to keep it in a decent size terra cotta pot for the 3-4 years you will be working on it

They are not evasive in our area due to our cold winters...but yes can be in other zones. I've two in my yard...one we call the Charlie Brown tree...poor thing had two strikes against it...the bulldog chewed the right side branch off...and it was planted to close to a black walnut. (Before I knew about juglone) now it is moved into the front yard...and is still no bigger than my knees if that.But was recently moved...the other one...is pruned and is beside my house...very easily maintained. But...I've seen photos on the gardenweb site...showing how invasive they can be.

 

[GrimLore]

So you know I just noted the invasive thing and suggestion to put it in a large terra cotta while working on it was just advise. I grow several invasive species and also poisonous plants and keeping them in pots helps a bit. It still requires me to do a lot more like prevent flowering and seeding. I was at a point this past Spring that there was so much to do I replanted 87 seedlings and saplings around the property to reduce the work load. I was about to quit honest and I just warn others not to take on to much as a precaution.

Grimmy

 

[Cadillactaste]

So you know I just noted the invasive thing and suggestion to put it in a large terra cotta while working on it was just advise. I grow several invasive species and also poisonous plants and keeping them in pots helps a bit. It still requires me to do a lot more like prevent flowering and seeding. I was at a point this past Spring that there was so much to do I replanted 87 seedlings and saplings around the property to reduce the work load. I was about to quit honest and I just warn others not to take on to much as a precaution.

Grimmy

Tamarix isn't selfseeding in our area...had them for 7 years...just recently seen they are easy to root. My neighbor keeps asking for me to look for seedings...nothing. She loves the bush. As do I...took a clipping to a nursery and had them identify it and order me in two.

I imagine putting this and keeping it I doors could make it more hardy. Curious if it could turn invasive if wintered I doors and not left to go dormant? Though surely wintering should take care of that. Maybe I'll pass the thing to the neighbor. And go with a weeping form by nature...

 

[GrimLore]

Hmmmm, In nature Tamarix can spread both vegetatively, by adventitious roots or submerged stems, and sexually, by seeds. Each flower can produce thousands of tiny (1 mm diameter) seeds that are contained in a small capsule usually adorned with a tuft of hair that aids in wind dispersal. Seeds can also be dispersed by water. Seedlings require extended periods of soil saturation for establishment. Tamarisk trees are most often propagated by cuttings. If you get flowers you have seeds but they are unlikely to sprout quickly.

They are considered invasive because they have a way of starving surrounding plants of water like a chestnut tree(why I suggested potting them). I am finding them to be interesting and I myself am learning a lot in this discussion

Grimmy

 

[Cadillactaste]

Hmmmm, In nature Tamarix can spread both vegetatively, by adventitious roots or submerged stems, and sexually, by seeds. Each flower can produce thousands of tiny (1 mm diameter) seeds that are contained in a small capsule usually adorned with a tuft of hair that aids in wind dispersal. Seeds can also be dispersed by water. Seedlings require extended periods of soil saturation for establishment. Tamarisk trees are most often propagated by cuttings. If you get flowers you have seeds but they are unlikely to sprout quickly.

They are considered invasive because they have a way of starving surrounding plants of water like a chestnut tree(why I suggested potting them). I am finding them to be interesting and I myself am learning a lot in this discussion

Grimmy

I'll ask my nursery...ours have never spread in the least...and bloom.