What is the best season for hard pruning to stump on Oriental Hornbeam?

[proninyaroslav]

This old Hornbeam was collected a couple of years ago from the mountains and grew well from the previous owner. But what I don't like about it is the apex, it doesn't have any taper and it has a lot of scars .
That's why I wanted to rerbuild the apex it this year. In the photo, I noted the planned cut. To the left of the cut there is a branch, to the right there are no branches.
I'd like to get back budding at this area, as this is the best place to create a new apex (redirecting the left branch to the right will be difficult). What is the best season for this operation?
I'm afraid to do this in the spring as the tree is not very strong and I might get a dieback down the trunk. Maybe it's worth doing this in June-July, when the Hornbeam gains strength? Will I get back budding after summer pruning?

 

[Kanorin]

There was a study in a journal where they looked at response rates following hard pruning in some deciduous species (I forget which one(s)). Basically, they found that there were two very good time windows for a large trunk prune - the first is late winter - early spring within about a ~3 window before the buds start opening. The second good time is a few weeks after the leaves harden off, which depending on your climate might be somewhere between mid May and early July. The few weeks after that (June-July) had ok responses...but then it drops off quickly as you get into fall and the danger of first frost killing off the new flush of growth before the tree can get much energy from it.

Looking at your pictures, if you chop either right before bud break or in late spring/early summer - you shouldn't get too much die back (If you chop mid-winter, you would get more die back for example). Might not get a node exactly where you planned, but you'd likely get a pop opposite to the branch just below the proposed cut. Or you could use that branch that's a little further down. See my annotations in orange. Also - it might help to post a full shot of the tree - hard to judge apex placement so zoomed in.

 

[August44]

I think we need to see some pictures of the whole tree before decisions can be made to help you.

 

[proninyaroslav]

My goal is to get a little more taper and movement, and make the apex more natural (rounded).
Some branches will also be repositioned with wire/guywire, I haven't done that yet.

 

[proninyaroslav]

Finally something like this (in terms of branch position)

 

[johng]

I think @Kanorin has provided some solid information about timing. However, my own anecdotal observations with other types of hornbeams and deciduous material in general, (I've never worked with C. orientalis) is that 2nd chops never respond as well as first chops. Due to this, I do my best to avoid making second chops...even on trees as vigorous at Bald Cypress. I think the basic reason is that the tree is typically far less vigorous after most first chops and lacks the resources to strongly respond. From the your photos, I would say your tree definitely fits into this category.
I doubt there is any research to support or refute my observations but just be advised to not expect as vigorous back budding.

Proceed with Caution!!

 

[rockm]

I wouldn't chop it. Doing so where you indicate eliminates a lot of movement in the trunk. If you chop it where you indicate, you've not going to have any appreciable taper for at least a decades. You've already got a start with the present apex. Patience, not another chop...There's no reason...

 

[proninyaroslav]

I wouldn't chop it. Doing so where you indicate eliminates a lot of movement in the trunk. If you chop it where you indicate, you've not going to have any appreciable taper for at least a decades. You've already got a start with the present apex. Patience, not another chop...There's no reason...

In fact, there is little movement in this part of the trunk. It's straight and long, and has two large scars from massive branch and natural apex. Some taper was created by carving. Not very happy with it.

 

[Rivian]

Do you get decent fall color on this?

 

[proninyaroslav]

Do you get decent fall color on this?

It's usually a bright yellow color if it gets a decent amount of sun. Approximately the same as the Elm behavior.

 

[BobbyLane]

is that the best front though, the tree seems to be going away from viewer and that long root is also an issue. I would cut that right back or bury the tree deeper so the base has an even looking spread, I dont think the long root does much for the image.
images arent very good to give proper advice to. need to see the whole tree from other angles without leaves.

 

[proninyaroslav]

going away from viewer and that long root is also an issue

It's not the final front yet, but definitely from this side, as the nebari doesn't look as good from the back and the trunk leans even more away from the viewer. The long root will be reduced later or I will find such an angle of the front that it looks good. The biggest problem is to make the apex (taper and movement), which most likely requires chopping.

 

[Zelrod]

I wouldn't chop it. Doing so where you indicate eliminates a lot of movement in the trunk. If you chop it where you indicate, you've not going to have any appreciable taper for at least a decades. You've already got a start with the present apex. Patience, not another chop...There's no reason...

I'd second Rockm's thoughts. Keep that top leader growing uninhibited! Although there is a portion of the trunk that's straight, chopping it again doesn't really solve that problem.

You could always plant it in the ground to speed healing if that works for your climate and housing arrangement.

 

[proninyaroslav]

Although there is a portion of the trunk that's straight, chopping it again doesn't really solve that problem.

Partially solves this, but in addition to the straight trunk, there are two wounds that are visible from the front, made by the previous owner. I've been wondering how this can be improved, and perhaps the only solution is to make one wound in the center and get branching around it (it will be visible only from above), and not leave it in the most visible place.