What is wrong with my cuttings?

[BonsaiTreeAdmirer]

Hi! Complete newbie here. 7B, Bonsais are being kept outside during the day (when its warm and sunny) and inside during the night (or when days are gloomy and cold). Watering once a day and plants are potted in bonsai soil.

I purchased three different species of willow cuttings (Dragon, Australian and Weeping) from a seller about a month ago, and I had followed their instructions on how to care and grow the cuttings into healthy trees. Thankfully everything has been going to plan and I was seeing great growth, however now 3 (2 Australian Willows and 1 Dragon Willow) out of the 9 cuttings I received are now suffering from something black/brown that is engulfing their trunks and all of their foliage shriveled up and died. It appeared to me that 2 (1 Weeping Willow and 1 Dragon Willow) cuttings completely died to this (there was no green when I lightly scratched the trunks) so its causing me worry. I also now see the same thing occurring on one of my favorite trees (a S shaped Dragon Willow) that had the most growth out of all of them.

I've attached many pictures for reference. Could anyone assist me? What is causing this to happen to my trees? Are my trees suffering from dieback or is it something else? If it really is dieback, can I stop it from happening/spreading or revive the trees suffering from it? I would really appreciate any help.

 

[Orion_metalhead]

Are these cuttings rooted?

7b... why are you bringing them in and out? Willow is hardy.

 

[Bonsai Nut]

Sorry I missed your earlier thread.

(1) Welcome to the site!

(2) Your cuttings are getting devoured by fungus. I'm not sure what, if anything, you can do at this point.

Fungus often thrives in conditions of humidity, low light, and no air movement. Once your willow cuttings were rooted, were you able to move them into full sun, and did you make sure the soil wasn't staying saturated? I wish I could offer you other advice...

 

[sorce]

Am I going Nuts?

Welcome back for the first second time to Crazy!

I think....

Sorce

 

[Pitoon]

Sorry, but those cuttings are no longer viable. Try to get some more and start over.

FYI......Willows will root in a cup of water, it may make things easier second go around.

 

[HorseloverFat]

Sorry, but those cuttings are no longer viable. Try to get some more and start over.

FYI......Willows will root in a cup of water, it may make things easier second go around.

InDEED.. the Native Americans and other indigenous peoples around the world have been using the Acids present in the Willow tissues, to inhibit root growth where there is none, since... well .. ever.

Willows and self-layering brambles are HOW humans LEARNED about “cuttings”...

So yes.. get more... Try (Not just) larger ones, too (Willows ONLY)

The boys and I have, in the wilderness near our “squat spots” “lopped off” sandbar AND white willows 2-3” in diameter And “moved them”..to more desire-able locations... I’ve only seen one NOT develop roots...

 

[bwaynef]

inhibit

I don't think that means what you think it means.

Induce maybe?

 

[HorseloverFat]

I don't think that means what you think it means.

Induce maybe?

Whoah, yeah. Didn’t re-read that.. that wasn’t even the word I was going for at ALL...

“Initiate” was what I THOUGHT I was typing.

 

[BonsaiTreeAdmirer]

Thank you all for replying. I am pretty much new to the bonsai world so I appreciate any help I can get.

Are these cuttings rooted?

7b... why are you bringing them in and out? Willow is hardy.

Yes, the cuttings are rooted. I had them in separate cups of water and submerged one end of the cuttings in about 2in of water until they rooted (took about 2 weeks for all of them to sprout roots).
I was told the bring them in and out via some Reddit posters when I asked for help there so I assumed if I started doing that, it would promote leaf growth.

Sorry I missed your earlier thread.

(1) Welcome to the site!

(2) Your cuttings are getting devoured by fungus. I'm not sure what, if anything, you can do at this point.

Fungus often thrives in conditions of humidity, low light, and no air movement. Once your willow cuttings were rooted, were you able to move them into full sun, and did you make sure the soil wasn't staying saturated? I wish I could offer you other advice...

Please do not apologize! Thanks so much for the warm welcome.
As for moving them to full sun, that was more so why I would bring them outside on my fire escape, so they could receive the most possible sunlight throughout the day and afternoon. I would keep them against the window sill that was on the same side as the fire escape. I planted them around the second week of March and kept them indoors until recently.

I believe my mistake was spraying the leaves and soil with water at night at days at a time because I read on other websites that spraying the leaves was necessary to keep the leaves healthy. I stopped doing that once saw the first bonsai develop the spots.

Sorry, but those cuttings are no longer viable. Try to get some more and start over.

FYI......Willows will root in a cup of water, it may make things easier second go around.

No need to apologize! Luckily the seller was kind enough to send me a new batch that I should receive by next week.
And I did root them first in water and waited two weeks before potting them.

InDEED.. the Native Americans and other indigenous peoples around the world have been using the Acids present in the Willow tissues, to inhibit root growth where there is none, since... well .. ever.

Willows and self-layering brambles are HOW humans LEARNED about “cuttings”...

So yes.. get more... Try (Not just) larger ones, too (Willows ONLY)

The boys and I have, in the wilderness near our “squat spots” “lopped off” sandbar AND white willows 2-3” in diameter And “moved them”..to more desire-able locations... I’ve only seen one NOT develop roots...

Definitely will be getting more soon!


Since these bonsais are no longer viable, would you suggest I toss the soil that they were being kept in as well or is there a way to treat the soil to get rid of the fungus?

 

[Shibui]

Since these bonsais are no longer viable, would you suggest I toss the soil that they were being kept in as well or is there a way to treat the soil to get rid of the fungus?

Quicker and easier to ditch possible infected soil. If you think it is worth treating the soil can be heat treated. Either boiled for 5 min or microwave to boiling point for about the same time. there is still a chance some spores could survive heat treatment. There will also be spores in the air and in the environment. Sunshine is a great anti fungal. Stale still air promotes fungal infection so the best spot is outside and despite these being willows too much water can promote rot too.

 

[Bonsai Nut]

Quicker and easier to ditch possible infected soil. If you think it is worth treating the soil can be heat treated. Either boiled for 5 min or microwave to boiling point for about the same time. there is still a chance some spores could survive heat treatment. There will also be spores in the air and in the environment. Sunshine is a great anti fungal. Stale still air promotes fungal infection so the best spot is outside and despite these being willows too much water can promote rot too.

I was going to say something similar. Watch heavy organic soils and cuttings if you are keeping them always wet. Perhaps next time consider perlite (which is a sterile baked media), fine pumice, or a combination of perlite or pumice with screened rough cut peat moss (peat has natural anti-fungal properties).

 

[RKatzin]

I always start cuttings directly in pumice fines. Any seed starter, perlite or vermiculite works better than water. Often the roots developed in water have a hard time adapting to soil and the cutting fails. When you get your new batch try some directly into starter soil and see how that works for you. You only need one live one and you can start taking cuttings from it.

 

[RKatzin]

One thing that greatly increased my successful cutting rate is the use of a humidity hut. Very complicated set up! I use a clear plastic tub with the locking handle/lid. The big one is about 3'x2' and 18" tall. Now here's the tricky part. Set the lid down with the handles in the closed position. This keeps the top elevated about 1/4". Now set your cuttings on the lid and put the tub in place. Bada Bing! Go have that beer, you're done.

 

[HorseloverFat]

One thing that greatly increased my successful cutting rate is the use of a humidity hut. Very complicated set up! I use a clear plastic tub with the locking handle/lid. The big one is about 3'x2' and 18" tall. Now here's the tricky part. Set the lid down with the handles in the closed position. This keeps the top elevated about 1/4". Now set your cuttings on the lid and put the tub in place. Bada Bing! Go have that beer, you're done.

Yes! SO many just DON’T use humidity bags/tents..

I was just saying in another thread.. “If it’s got foliage, and I disturb the roots, it gets a bag!”

....the same can be said, for me, for cuttings.. if it has foliage, it gets bag.

 

[BonsaiTreeAdmirer]

Am I going Nuts?

Welcome back for the first second time to Crazy!

I think....

Sorce

I think you might be confusing me for someone else but, thank you for the welcome!

Quicker and easier to ditch possible infected soil. If you think it is worth treating the soil can be heat treated. Either boiled for 5 min or microwave to boiling point for about the same time. there is still a chance some spores could survive heat treatment. There will also be spores in the air and in the environment. Sunshine is a great anti fungal. Stale still air promotes fungal infection so the best spot is outside and despite these being willows too much water can promote rot too.

The boiling method sounds a little intense but might as well try to do it until the new cuttings arrive.

I was going to say something similar. Watch heavy organic soils and cuttings if you are keeping them always wet. Perhaps next time consider perlite (which is a sterile baked media), fine pumice, or a combination of perlite or pumice with screened rough cut peat moss (peat has natural anti-fungal properties).

I will look into this as well! Thanks so much for the suggestions.

I always start cuttings directly in pumice fines. Any seed starter, perlite or vermiculite works better than water. Often the roots developed in water have a hard time adapting to soil and the cutting fails. When you get your new batch try some directly into starter soil and see how that works for you. You only need one live one and you can start taking cuttings from it.

If the seller sends the same amount of cuttings of each species as before, I'll definitely consider that.

One thing that greatly increased my successful cutting rate is the use of a humidity hut. Very complicated set up! I use a clear plastic tub with the locking handle/lid. The big one is about 3'x2' and 18" tall. Now here's the tricky part. Set the lid down with the handles in the closed position. This keeps the top elevated about 1/4". Now set your cuttings on the lid and put the tub in place. Bada Bing! Go have that beer, you're done.

Oh gosh, these instructions were not clear! Now I have a jungle with animals growing in my place.
I definitely should have a locking handle/lid somewhere!

Yes! SO many just DON’T use humidity bags/tents..

I was just saying in another thread.. “If it’s got foliage, and I disturb the roots, it gets a bag!”

....the same can be said, for me, for cuttings.. if it has foliage, it gets bag.

This might work better for me though since I do not have that much space. Definitely will try both methods.

~~~~~~~~~~~~
Sorry for all of the questions but do you think trying to grow them outside for the first year or two will be the best course of action? Does indoor vs outdoor really produce many differences?

 

[HorseloverFat]

Does NOT have to be advanced..

Here’s my ficus Benjamina cutting “shelf”.. some just have bread/bagel bags... that’s juuust fine.
Here’s a Trident seedling repot with a bag.

See.. doesn’t have to be fancy.

 

[HorseloverFat]

? Does indoor vs outdoor really produce many differences?

Outdoors is where the trees/cuttings WANT to be outdoors... the light/air circ is much better..

However, for mere PROPAGATION needs.. Indoors allows for more control over temp.. and allows you to extend daylight period, which most species REALLY like for “throwing roots”.. but these “positive” aspects only outweigh the “negatives” IF you have a semi-decent set-up..

Short answer: OUTDOORS.... always outdoors, if you are able.

 

[BonsaiTreeAdmirer]

Outdoors is where the trees/cuttings WANT to be outdoors... the light/air circ is much better..

However, for mere PROPAGATION needs.. Indoors allows for more control over temp.. and allows you to extend daylight period, which most species REALLY like for “throwing roots”.. but these “positive” aspects only outweigh the “negatives” IF you have a semi-decent set-up..

Short answer: OUTDOORS.... always outdoors, if you are able.

Sounds great! Thank you so much for all of your help and for the examples. I just bagged two of the 5 remaining bonsais and will need two more bags for the other two. I will definitely do this with the new ones as well.
Do you suggest I hold off on giving the cuttings water until the soil looks a bit drier while its in the bags/humidity tent? Or do I keep the same routine of watering once in the mornings?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I just finished boiling the majority soil that had the diseased bonsais and I am leaving the soil spread in a large pan to promote drying. Hopefully this will help getting rid of the fungus if there were spores. Even went to fair as to wash the pots themselves just in case.

Thanks so much to everyone who offered help and gave me ideas how to to properly start and help my bonsai trees growth!

 

[Shibui]

Even went to fair as to wash the pots themselves just in case.

Always sanitize second hand post before reuse. Commercially we are not supposed to reuse pots because of the high risk of promoting disease and pest infection.. Back yarders an other amateurs beware of the risk of passing infection form one to another. Pots can be sanitized similar to potting soil or by scrubbing in a bleach or peroxide solution.
Re-using pots where a plant has died from infection is akin to putting a hospital patient into the same sheets where a previous patient has died of infectious disease!!!!!

 

[HorseloverFat]

Always sanitize second hand post before reuse. Commercially we are not supposed to reuse pots because of the high risk of promoting disease and pest infection.. Back yarders an other amateurs beware of the risk of passing infection form one to another. Pots can be sanitized similar to potting soil or by scrubbing in a bleach or peroxide solution.
Re-using pots where a plant has died from infection is akin to putting a hospital patient into the same sheets where a previous patient has died of infectious disease!!!!!

Haha!! THAT’S why the florist next-door ALWAYS gives me a ton of lil’ containers!!