What is your favorite soil to use and why?

Anthony

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Firstly, Akadama, was used by those around Tokyo,
The other folk used sand / gravel.

Perhaps ypu guys need to look at it like this,

!] Ground growing - rich soil for trunk size and perhaps the
branches. Root placement ?

2] over sized pot for Branch and Branchlet refinement.

3] Bonsai pot
_______________________________

The soil mixes apply to 2 and 3.

In 3 you can try to slow down the tree to hold the design.
Or adapt and grow with the situation.
Good Day
Anthony









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\
 

MichaelS

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I appreciate this, but I think better than the question "how", is the statement, "true, but there are other ways".

The important question then becomes, "does inorganic soil prevent root rot better than other methods that prevent root rot".

Root rot comes about due to 1 - the presence of pathogens and 2 - conditions which favour them. If you know how to avoid these problems, soil type is not a limiting factor in preventing root rot. Having said that, I like akadama because it does not decompose biologically and I believe you can get finer twigging with it. (but I grew bonsai in sand/bark for years without root rot). Therefore now I will only use it on trees which are at that stage of their development. 95% of my material is still grown in sand and professionally prepared composted pine bark made to the Australian Standard (which needs to meet certain parameters such as AFP, WHP, Nutrient, lack of pathogens etc by law) and I think you get faster growth and thickening in that.
 

LCD35

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Godzilla mix.
D.E. and lava.
Did you ever end up trying pumice in your Gojira mix? My intro to soil science came from my club, and 8822/pumice/lava is what a lot of members use. Since I'm on the edge of a desert, I added a little composted pine mulch since I also get constant wind drying things out.
 

AaronThomas

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50/50 lava/pumice
Just curious.... I have been using a mixture of pumice, red lava and orchid bark for a little extra moisture retention during the summers here in Arizona. I recently started a couple of cypress trees and have been growing them solely in pumice (1/8 to 1/4) and have seen zero difference with those that are growing in red lava and orchid bark.
I would assume that pumice retains more moisture than the lava stone… Theoretically couldn’t one just use one or the other?
 

M. Frary

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Did you ever end up trying pumice in your Gojira mix? My intro to soil science came from my club, and 8822/pumice/lava is what a lot of members use. Since I'm on the edge of a desert, I added a little composted pine mulch since I also get constant wind drying things out.
Nope.
Haven't seen any or feel the need really.
 

LCD35

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I'm trying to make use of stuff from my environment. I bet these could replace composted pine bark.
 

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SouthernMaple

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So this year I repotted nearly everything, first two trees I used a 80/20 akadama pumice mix i got from my mentor sifted everything myself. Then I started mixing it with double line mix I bought at the expo last year and dallas bonsai general mix I bought from the closing sale. Both of which I don't know whats in them but it drains fine and holds water better than my first mix. I have tried to find whats in each mix but still don't know. Anyone read japanese?20200225_165502_Burst01.jpg
 

SeanS

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So this year I repotted nearly everything, first two trees I used a 80/20 akadama pumice mix i got from my mentor sifted everything myself. Then I started mixing it with double line mix I bought at the expo last year and dallas bonsai general mix I bought from the closing sale. Both of which I don't know whats in them but it drains fine and holds water better than my first mix. I have tried to find whats in each mix but still don't know. Anyone read japanese?View attachment 289262

Hard Akadama 70% and Kiryu15% plus Pumice 15%
 

Muchas_Plantas

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I guess it depends on the size of the DE since that larger stuff can be drier.....

But 8822 is likely the wettest single component there is.

The only things that makes it different than Akadama is shape and (depending) size, well, color if it matters. (These are large differences.)

Sorce


DE also does not break down and self scale like akadama does, so it dosent cultivate the same quality fine roots that akadama does. but it is functional as a replacement, just not as or more effective in cultivating roots
 

sorce

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DE also does not break down and self scale like akadama does, so it dosent cultivate the same quality fine roots that akadama does. but it is functional as a replacement, just not as or more effective in cultivating roots

IMO...

That self scaling thing is BS.

If it is true.

Fine DE remains at the perfect "scaling" size.

After that Akadama is useless.

Sorce
 

PiñonJ

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IMO...

That self scaling thing is BS.
How would you know, since you’ve never used it? When you work with akadama, you see it happen. A root grows through a particle and at some point splits it in two, producing finer substrate as the roots ramify. You also misstated earlier in the thread that Ryan recommends the same particle size for everything - not true. He recommends a different size range for shohin trees, and inclusion, or exclusion of 1/16” for larger trees, depending on their environmental requirements.
 

sorce

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You also misstated earlier in the thread that Ryan recommends the same particle size for everything - not true

How do you know I've never used it?

He used the same size particle some years ago then.

Explain how this is visible to an eyeball, and I will believe it!

Sorce
 

PiñonJ

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How do you know I've never used it?

He used the same size particle some years ago then.

Explain how this is visible to an eyeball, and I will believe it!

Sorce
When you re-pot a tree that’s been in akadama, you see a couple of pieces of evidence for this:
1. Roots growing through the center of akadama particles.
2. An increase in proportion of smaller particles - not through crushing, these are intact particles.
 

sorce

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When you re-pot a tree that’s been in akadama, you see a couple of pieces of evidence for this:
1. Roots growing through the center of akadama particles.
2. An increase in proportion of smaller particles - not through crushing, these are intact particles.

I appreciate this conversation.

What is the evidence ice didn't spall the particles?

I really have no horse in the race, but my point is....

That action, if real(not arguing it's not) isn't what creates new roots.
A new root doesn't decide to grow because it has broken down a particle of Akadama.

What is the mechanism that makes new roots grow?

How to facilitate this mechanism without the breakdown of soil?

Sorce
 

Forsoothe!

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Roots are adventitious, they grow in any direction that is unobstructed. If there is a hole large enough for one molecule of water to seep thru from the other end, the root can add one cell to its tip, ad infinitum.
 

PiñonJ

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I appreciate this conversation.

What is the evidence ice didn't spall the particles?

I really have no horse in the race, but my point is....

That action, if real(not arguing it's not) isn't what creates new roots.
A new root doesn't decide to grow because it has broken down a particle of Akadama.

What is the mechanism that makes new roots grow?

How to facilitate this mechanism without the breakdown of soil?

Sorce
It's not about growing new roots, it's about scaling the particle size to accommodate finer root ramification and correspondingly, finer foliage ramification.
 

Lazylightningny

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Akadama is my favorite. I just need 4 types of soil. Akadama, Pumice, Lava and Kanuma.
I tried a bunch of other stuff over the years to try and save money and have come to the conclusion that soil is not the place in which to save money. Use the components listed above and you will not have any soil problems. The kanuma is for ericaceous plants like azaleas.
 

sorce

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It's not about growing new roots, it's about scaling the particle size to accommodate finer root ramification and correspondingly, finer foliage ramification.

If I am to believe that is calculateable enough inside the confines of a pot, I believe one could control this better with calculated uses of different sizes of DE, or any material.

Since I do find the round beneficial, and the shape of DE, wishing it was round.

But, a split sphere is a hemisphere, and a split hemisphere....is small DE. As far as shape is concerned.

Sorce
 

PiñonJ

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If I am to believe that is calculateable enough inside the confines of a pot, I believe one could control this better with calculated uses of different sizes of DE, or any material.

Since I do find the round beneficial, and the shape of DE, wishing it was round.

But, a split sphere is a hemisphere, and a split hemisphere....is small DE. As far as shape is concerned.

Sorce
The supposed advantage is that the process happens automatically. As a root system grows and needs to become more ramified, the average particle size becomes a little smaller. I am not thrilled about the concept of importing dirt from Japan, but enough people report improved results with it that I have been using it for the last two potting seasons (my greater experience with it has been re-potting trees in my courses). I have used DE and, while I wouldn't have a problem using it if that's all I had, I don't like how it handles, especially because of its shale-like shape, as you mention, and not much choice on particle size.
 
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sorce

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importing dirt

I just note that it's never JUST Akadama that folks switch to.

I don't think I am going to use straight DE anymore. And when I do I will be trying to pay more attention to watering appropriately as these trees start to become worthy of such attention.

In the end I think I will be able to afford a good APLish mix since I don't want to keep many trees.

The sustainability of attaining the Akadama is still the concern. Regardless of price.

Sorce
 
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