what kind of pine is this?

ohiogrown

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Can someone identify this pine please?
 

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ghues

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Welcome,
Please add your location so that it helps answering such questions.

How many needles per sheath does it have, 2,3 or 5?
 

ohiogrown

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Thank you! I'm from Ohio. I'm thinking five needles. Sorry I'm new to the site and new to bonsai.
 

ohiogrown

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Probably Pinus strobus - white pine. Difficult for bonsai because it is hard to reduce the needle size and back budding is rare.
Thank you! I'm starting to realize that. I guess I'll just kinda keep it around for practice.
 

Bonsai Nut

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Probably Pinus strobus - white pine. Difficult for bonsai because it is hard to reduce the needle size and back budding is rare.

I agree with Gene. Just to be a little more specific, it is more often known as Eastern White Pine and is a US native. Japanese White Pine is a completely different tree that is used frequently in bonsai.
 

sorce

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Furkin purty though aint it?

Sorce
 

ohiogrown

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I agree with Gene. Just to be a little more specific, it is more often known as Eastern White Pine and is a US native. Japanese White Pine is a completely different tree that is used frequently in bonsai.
Yes, thanks for the info. I did know that. I have a lot of native trees to Ohio that I was trying to use but I'm starting to realize there is a reason why some trees are not used for bonsai. At first I was under the impression you could use any tree or shrub which I know you can but some work better then others I guess.
 

Bonsai Nut

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some work better then others I guess.

Yes. You can apply the same bonsai development techniques to any plant... but you will get better or faster or more believable results with some species than others.

Doesn't mean you can't make a bonsai out of an Eastern White Pine. However given the difficulty in getting those long needles to reduce, you will probably get best results with a larger tree - where the long needles will look more in scale with the design.
 

ohiogrown

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Yes. You can apply the same bonsai development techniques to any plant... but you will get better or faster or more believable results with some species than others.

Doesn't mean you can't make a bonsai out of an Eastern White Pine. However given the difficulty in getting those long needles to reduce, you will probably get best results with a larger tree - where the long needles will look more in scale with the design.
Thanks for the info! I think I'm just going to get other kinds of pines.
 

Bonsai Nut

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Pinus rigida, pitch pine. It's native to SE Ohio, a fairly wide area in the SE quarter of the state. 2 needles, famous for easy back budding, and it has a good track record as bonsai.

Leo I'm going to smack you. Either that or you owe me a beer. You can zoom in on the photo and clearly see it is a five needle pine :)
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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Leo I'm going to smack you. Either that or you owe me a beer. You can zoom in on the photo and clearly see it is a five needle pine :)

Oops, I neglected to restate the question I was answering. I had nodded my head in agreement that the tree in question was indeed a healthy P strobus, AWP. I didn't post, but I agreed. I also decided to not bother with my thousand word rant about no matter how much you try, AWP will frustrate your efforts at creating a bonsai. Didn't post that thought either.

So I had already moved on to answering the question: "what pine native to Ohio does make good bonsai? " And of course, the answer is Pitch pine, P rigida.

But I neglected to post the lead in.

You may also find P virginiana. Virginia pine in Ohio, but I'm not sure where.
 

0soyoung

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Even though EWP will almost certainly never be a great bonsai, it is a great tree for learning about ways to treat pines. EWP responds well to all of them. The one thing EWP will not do, however, is pop buds where there are no longer any needles.
  • like a JWP (p. parviflora) - this will make shorter internodes
    • pinch candles as needles begin to appear in spring (April/May) to balance strength.
    • cut the hardened shoots to a few rows of fascicles (after sheaths drop - ca August)
  • like a JBP (p. thunbergii) - this will make shorter internodes AND short needles
    • remove the entire spring shoot (Labor Day to 4 July)
  • and other variations, such as my favorite treatment of EWP (and how I maintain my landscape specimens)
    • knock off terminal candles entirely and/or prune back to fascicular buds in spring (April/May)
    • prune back hardened shoots to a few rows of fascicles in fall (Oct/Nov = more time to build strength)
      • p. strobus will make new terminal/fascicular buds by spring - many species don't.
Lastly, note that branches are largely independent (meaning what you do to one has little effect on the others), so one can easily apply one technique to branches on one side of the tree, say, and another technique with the rest (then the challenge is to keep track of which is which).
 

ohiogrown

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Thanks for the wonderful info guys! I'm sure i will have more newbie questions in the near future! I am a member of Ryan Neil's live streams and I have learned a great deal from that. Sometimes it seems too advanced for me or the material is stuff I'll never have a chance to work with, so I think I'll get just as much out of asking questions to you kind folks. Thanks again, I love this website.
 
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