What Should I Do with this Trident

[one_bonsai]

I'm a bit un-familiar with Maples so not sure what to do with my first one. I was thinking of trunk chopping it at the red line, root pruning it, putting it in the ground and then selecting a new leader. Do maples form lots of new shoots below the trunk chop like elms?

 

[one_bonsai]

 

[Maloghurst]

Maples push new shoot at the nodes not in between or at the cut site. They die back to a node when you chop so keep that in mind.
I realize the taper is not great but you could regrow the top section and start developing the branches and make a tree out of it as it is. You’ll learn a lot by doing that. You could also ground layer to fix the nebari.
Maybe get some seedlings or cuttings to put in the ground since you have the space and you can make a better tree with better nebari and taper in ten years time. And you’ll already have experience building branch structure.
You could start chopping this and have a hot mess of scars and mistakes in 5 years time also.
.

 

[one_bonsai]

...you could regrow the top section and start developing the branches and make a tree out of it as it is.

So you mean don't trunk chop it and start developing the branches?

 

[MrWunderful]

You could layer it into a few shohin.

You definitely will want to ground layer the bottom to lose that large root.

 

[Maloghurst]

That’s one option, regrow the top section with the wire scarring and develop a tree out of what’s left. This tree has a similar straight taperless trunk. Though his has a better nebari and the top of his tree has movement and taper.

 

[one_bonsai]

...regrow the top section with the wire scarring and develop a tree out of what’s left.

I see. So should I regrow the top section in the ground?

 

[Maloghurst]

The only reason to put in the ground is if you want a fatter trunk.
You would not need to put it in the ground for this.
You just keep all branching in check while you let the leader grow. 2 or 3 seasons you have the new top. You can be developing branching at the same time. Like others already stated there is an issue with nebari that is probably not fixable. Once your ready you should ground layer the tree or just be ok with it as is.

 

[Maloghurst]

You’ll have to uncover some nebari and decide on a front then a new leader if you regrow the top.
I really like this resource for building branch structure.

Developing Deciduous Bonsai Branch Structures: Part 1 – Bonsai4Me

bonsai4me.com

 

[one_bonsai]

The only reason to put in the ground is if you want a fatter trunk.
You would not need to put it in the ground for this.
You just keep all branching in check while you let the leader grow. 2 or 3 seasons you have the new top. You can be developing branching at the same time. Like others already stated there is an issue with nebari that is probably not fixable. Once your ready you should ground layer the tree or just be ok with it as is.

So if I ground layer it in the future, would I be correct in saying there's no point root pruning it now?

 

[sorce]

So if I ground layer it in the future, would I be correct in saying there's no point root pruning it now?

It'll slow it down.

I like the chop.

Chop and ground.

But know what your new lead will be now.

Sorce

 

[Stan Kengai]

I'm a bit un-familiar with Maples so not sure what to do with my first one. I was thinking of trunk chopping it at the red line, root pruning it, putting it in the ground and then selecting a new leader. Do maples form lots of new shoots below the trunk chop like elms?

What type of maple is it? Its growth habit looks like trident, but the bark on the base looks very different. What do you want your tree to look like? There are plenty examples of what maples looks like on the 'net.

What do you like about the tree? Is there anything you would want to highlight?

What do you dislike about the tree, other than it looks like a cricket bat? Is there anything you want to hide or correct? That thick root is certainly a detriment, but if there are decent sized feeder roots closer to the trunk, it can be cut back to those. Maples will take a good bit of root reduction.

Is the first trunk section thick enough, or do you want it thicker? If it is thick enough, it does not need to go in the ground, as @Maloghurst said.

Cultural notes: Maples do well in wide and shallow containers where they can spread their roots. They will only bud at existing nodes and will not reliably throw buds at cut sites like elms.

BTW, @sorce always root prune before putting anything in the ground. If the roots are a mess before planting, they'll be an even bigger mess when you dig them up. Bonsai prefers quality versus time.

 

[one_bonsai]

What type of maple is it? Its growth habit looks like trident, but the bark on the base looks very different. What do you want your tree to look like? There are plenty examples of what maples looks like on the 'net.

What do you like about the tree? Is there anything you would want to highlight?

What do you dislike about the tree, other than it looks like a cricket bat? Is there anything you want to hide or correct? That thick root is certainly a detriment, but if there are decent sized feeder roots closer to the trunk, it can be cut back to those. Maples will take a good bit of root reduction.

Is the first trunk section thick enough, or do you want it thicker? If it is thick enough, it does not need to go in the ground, as @Maloghurst said.

Cultural notes: Maples do well in wide and shallow containers where they can spread their roots. They will only bud at existing nodes and will not reliably throw buds at cut sites like elms.

BTW, @sorce always root prune before putting anything in the ground. If the roots are a mess before planting, they'll be an even bigger mess when you dig them up. Bonsai prefers quality versus time.

It's a trident

I would like better taper and better nebari. I think the trunk is thick enough.

 

[Stan Kengai]

It's a trident

I would like better taper and better nebari. I think the trunk is thick enough.

The trunk up to the first branch has a good amount of taper, so chopping there and regrowing the trunk would be the way to go.

As far as improving the nebari, that's a more difficult task at this stage of the game. Trident maples do not layer as reliably as Japanese maples, and I personally would not consider that operation at this point. Your best bet is to perform a hard pruning of the roots. If you're not experienced root pruning tridents, I would suggest seeking out someone local who is for help. If that's not an option, I'm sure there are threads here and reliable sources on the 'net demonstrating the technique.

As far as timing goes, I would not perform both the chop and drastic root reduction at the same time. If your soil is still draining freely, I would do the chop this year and root reduction next spring.

 

[one_bonsai]

Hmmm, two different recommendations;

1. Don't trunk chop, regrow the top and ground layer in the future

2. Do a trunk chop, regrow the trunk and don't ground layer.

 

[Maloghurst]

My recommendation is based on this being your first maple and the flawed nebari. The experience of building a branch structure on a tree and have something to work on.
If you are up for ground growing you could try seedlings or cuttings and get a better tree in ten years because you control the root growth and taper etc.
If you try and make this the absolutely best tree possible then maybe you should put it in the ground and let the trunk double in size and build taper with repeated hard pruning. In 15 years if you do everything well you could have a nice tree maybe.
Just two options for you to consider. Both have value in my eyes.
Both

 

[one_bonsai]

No worries. Thank you for the advice.

 

[one_bonsai]

I have a few small Tridents. Should I root prune them before they go in the ground?

 

[Maloghurst]

Yes you should see what is happening with the root system. They are pretty young so i would not be too aggressive with them. Maybe just downward growing or tap root if it’s there. If you find a ton of roots then you want to keep the lateral roots and get rid the downward growing ones. You can plant on a tile to encourage lateral roots and you can plant at an angle for movement. You should experiment with the 4 you have. Keep us posted! Here is a thread of trident ground growing that can help you.

The 2010 BonsaiNut Maple Project

Al, I love this idea! I've been working on trees for quite a few years, and have never once had a trident maple in a bonsai pot. I've always figured that they were so easy to grow, that I wouldn't have one unless it was a damn good one. I have several trident maples in the ground, and so...

www.bonsainut.com

 

[Shibui]

I have a few small Tridents. Should I root prune them before they go in the ground?

Yes. Yes! Yes!!
Always get roots right before going into the ground. Small problem roots will become big problem roots in the ground. When the tree is larger it becomes a bigger problem to make major root changes. While the tree is small and young is the best time to do major root prune. Tridents are very resilient. I can cut of 90% of roots here and more just grow back.
I cut all down roots right off. I cut lateral roots back to 1-2cm long. that forces them to ramify and stimulates more lateral roots from the trunk. A couple of thick roots from the base of a maple is not nebari. Good nebari is many roots all round the trunk. good nebari ramifies just as branches above ramify. pruning lateral roots short will give better root ramification.
I was repotting young tridents all this week. Most only have a couple of roots left, no roots longer than 2cm long and no downward roots.
Tiles are used by those who have not learned to root prune effectively. Proper root pruning will give a more predictable and better result and WILL give a flat root system with good lateral roots.
Planting trunks on an angle for informal upright is a great idea. We are not usually trying to grow telephone poles as bonsai.
You may be interested to see some more Aussie info on ground growing tridents on my site: http://shibuibonsai.com.au/