What to do with this Cedar

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Or have I removed enough lower branches?
Removing (low) branches is always the last thing you do. Form the tree, keep spare branches, keep low branches and style them. The tree might surprise you in a few years. Don't dictate the tree, it's easier when you guide them. Most simple rules are hight is 6 times size of trunk, and first branch on 1/3 from hight. It are dumb rules but sometimes do open your eyes. The shorter you make the tree the more powerful it will look. Remove top branches instead of low branches. Only remove what you will never use. Difficult online...
 

one_bonsai

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I have wired the trunk and branches and angled the branches down as recommended by dirk hoorelbeke.

I used a different plant from my first post as this one had branches lower down. Feedback please.

Cedar2a.png
 

defra

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I have wired the trunk and branches and angled the branches down as recommended by dirk hoorelbeke.

I used a different plant from my first post as this one had branches lower down. Feedback please.

View attachment 220263

Leave it alone for some time now it needs time and growth now, maybe point the tips of the branches up.
 

Wires_Guy_wires

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Cedrus doesn't like rootwork at all. So I would leave it for at least a season after trimming and wiring.
 

defra

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Repotting tree's happens around bud break in spring for mosth species so no i would not repot now, also plant seems healthy so repotting is not a priority i would just leave it in this pot next season it will recover faster from this insult if you leave the roots untouched :)
 
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Good start. Lowest Branch right can go down a bit further. Leave in pot until next spring. Post photos in 2 months. Don't prune yet. Let the wire bite a bit but don't lose it. Is this a graft?
 

Shibui

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Repotting tree's happens around bud break in spring for mosth species so no i would not repot now, also plant seems healthy so repotting is not a priority i would just leave it in this pot next season it will recover faster from this insult if you leave the roots untouched :)
This is interesting. Many of us have moved away from early spring repotting of Cedrus. They seem to do better when root pruned late spring or into summer. One who pioneered this here in Southern Australia actually told us the best time for repotting cedar is the hottest day of the year though I think he may just have been making a point as few would listen to such heresy back then. Certainly late spring and early summer seems to work for me.
Almost all of our Australian native species do far better when repotted and root pruned in summer. Many just die when root pruned in winter when they are not growing. Quite a few experienced Australian growers are also moving to fall repotting for conifers and even for deciduous species but note that our winters are very mild compared to what most of you northerners experience.
 

defra

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This is interesting. Many of us have moved away from early spring repotting of Cedrus. They seem to do better when root pruned late spring or into summer. One who pioneered this here in Southern Australia actually told us the best time for repotting cedar is the hottest day of the year though I think he may just have been making a point as few would listen to such heresy back then. Certainly late spring and early summer seems to work for me.
Almost all of our Australian native species do far better when repotted and root pruned in summer. Many just die when root pruned in winter when they are not growing. Quite a few experienced Australian growers are also moving to fall repotting for conifers and even for deciduous species but note that our winters are very mild compared to what most of you northerners experience.

Thats why i said mosth species ;)
there are exceptions ofcourse i repot mugo pine in summer but did not know about cedrus tough :)
 

one_bonsai

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I've wired the keepers and runners and I'm going to let the top grow long as a sacrifice. Others have suggested just letting the whole plant grow i.e. with no wiring. Is this also an option? What are the advantages and disadvantages of this second method?
 

MichaelS

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Whether you ground it or pot it, it is very important with cedars to preserve the minor THIN branches coming from the trunk because these are the ones you will want to use when the time comes for branch selection. By that time the vigorous heavy ones will be useless. The way to preserve the thin ones is to make sure they get their share of light and air by pruning and thinning the heavy ones. You can remove the thick branches clean from the trunk because cedars heal very quickly. Remember to also replace the leader regularly. Curved trunks on cedar looks contrived and fake. Let it grow the way it wants and it will look like a cedar. Once you pot it you want to develop a FLAT apex, not a round one. You are not making a pine! Ypu don't need heavy branches low on the trunk. They can be high up above the half-way point or higher. This will make the tree look authentic. Deodar is not much a bonsai subject but maybe in 50 years it will settle down to smaller needles.
 
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How do I know when the leader needs to be cut off?
When that leader has done it's job. It depends on species, climate and your goal when that is. It's not that simple and needs some experience to have it just right.
 

one_bonsai

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I've read a bit about people planting in colanders and then placing the colander in the ground. Seems to make sense. Makes it easy to lift the plant out, prune the roots and put it back into the ground. Would that be a good idea for this cedar?
 
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