What to do with this Japanese Maple base

[WavyGaby]

Hello,
I repotted this Japanese Maple into a larger training pot today and I realized that it has a split base.

I can't figure out if the sideways angled trunk/root can be used as nebari or if I need to cut it off, or possibly start the base over by air layer the trunk above the split?
I just buried the split in soil for now.
Thanks

 

[Ohmy222]

i would layer it or either find a rock to put under it.

 

[plant_dr]

Layer it

 

[WavyGaby]

Thanks guys. I've never done an air layer but looks like 2020 will be the year for it!
Any advice on the layer?

 

[Ohmy222]

@Bonsai Nut had a great article on air layering a while back. I would search to see if you can find it.

 

[Shibui]

Finding a rock to put under this is not a good solution. Root over rock should look like the tree grew there and shoving a rock under already thick roots will never look right.
Growing new roots would probably be the best option. I'd say ground layer rather than air layer. Maybe that's just being pedantic as the technique is similar - peel off bark where the new roots are needed but then bury that area in the soil rather than mucking around with plastic and moss.
Layering would also give you the chance to change the trunk angle if you don't want a vertical trunk tree.

 

[WavyGaby]

Well, I never got around to air layering this one. I did bury it deep. However, the soil was not graded well and larger pieces didn't hold the moisture up top to promote and higher roots.
Here is an overview. It's probably 3 ft high.


Big root still kicking. I did vut it shorter during the last repot



Here is back side without view of root


Should I go back to the ground layer in 2022? Alternatively, I was thinking I could cut the large root and build off the lower roots. However, it's probably not very radial down there considering the large root above.

Advice is welcome

Thanks!

 

[Shibui]

Given all the problems I would go for a layer at a convenient distance below the first branch.
Cutting a large root is easy but cut roots tend to heal very slow and, as pointed out there is little of use below. A layer will usually give good all round roots which is very desirable in maples.

I did bury it deep. However, the soil was not graded well and larger pieces didn't hold the moisture up top to promote and higher roots.

Your idea of buried deep is obviously very different from mine. Surface roots are still visible in the recent photos. I would have covered all roots by at least 1" of soil to make sure there was ample moisture to stimulate new root growth. That said, layering is a far quicker way to get new roots and far more reliable in getting good roots where you want them. Simply burying only gives random chance of any roots and less of a good radial root system.
I think next spring, after leaves have opened and hardened off would be a better time to layer this.

 

[Potawatomi13]

If not confident to air layer suggest "take two" ground layer. This time bury roots at least 1 1/2", scar bark, apply rooting substance, keep watered this time.

 

[WavyGaby]

Given all the problems I would go for a layer at a convenient distance below the first branch.
Cutting a large root is easy but cut roots tend to heal very slow and, as pointed out there is little of use below. A layer will usually give good all round roots which is very desirable in maples.


Your idea of buried deep is obviously very different from mine. Surface roots are still visible in the recent photos. I would have covered all roots by at least 1" of soil to make sure there was ample moisture to stimulate new root growth. That said, layering is a far quicker way to get new roots and far more reliable in getting good roots where you want them. Simply burying only gives random chance of any roots and less of a good radial root system.
I think next spring, after leaves have opened and hardened off would be a better time to layer this.

Thanks for the advice. I'll wait until spring to layer it.
It was a little deeper initially but the fines settled lower and left me with coarse pumice and lava up top. I also scraped away some soil to take the photos.
I basically forgot about the tree during a couple home moves in the last 1.5 years. It could use a repot in early spring too.

 

[Shibui]

It could use a repot in early spring too.

repotting is a great time to layer - either ground layer or air layer - as it can be much easier to cut, peel and scrape the area while the tree is out of the pot.

I can now see where the soil was on the trunk but not really deep enough to maintain enough moisture to stimulate good roots in the right places. 1 1/2" as suggested by @Potawatomi13 would be adequate but in any case reasonable moisture is the key to getting new roots.

 

[WavyGaby]

repotting is a great time to layer - either ground layer or air layer - as it can be much easier to cut, peel and scrape the area while the tree is out of the pot.

I can now see where the soil was on the trunk but not really deep enough to maintain enough moisture to stimulate good roots in the right places. 1 1/2" as suggested by @Potawatomi13 would be adequate but in any case reasonable moisture is the key to getting new roots.

Makes since. Thanks so much

 

[Blksmth88]

As a fellow beginner here, more so than you even lol. I like the double base and I think it adds cool character to the tree. Now that said, I also don't know or foresee the future problems if any it could cause but for me I think I'd love to see an attempt at utilizing it for something. Either way good luck and I'll be following!

 

[WavyGaby]

I decided to pull this out of the pot and take a look at the roots opposite of the large one.
I liked the somewhat radial look of these roots so I decided to keep them and reduce the larger root. I made two adjacent cuts 90% through the large root then I sealed it. I am hoping that the smaller roots will now beef up and fill in the area between them and the large root.

 

[Shibui]

If you bury that again it is entirely likely that new roots will grow from the cut end of the big root. More smaller roots growing there will improve that side of the nebari.
Judicious root pruning coupled with good growing conditions should see slow improvements in the roots. Keep the roots well covered while they develop. New ones may even emerge if conditions are suitable.

 

[WavyGaby]

I started an air layer in Spring 22 and took it off in Aug 22.


I checked on the base in spring 2023 and the big root just fused and swelled.


I cut off the big root first to see how things were below. Not bad but not good enough.


I decided to ground layer with a ring for good measure. I should have done that a year earlier or at least cut all the way through the giant root.

 

[WavyGaby]

Here are the results of the air layer. I separated it in February 2024. The roots look awesome.

I took it out of the pot and combed out the roots. I could see a small gap in the layer of roots where the new vs old roots met.


After root trimming


Here is the bottom before I carved it flat. You can barely see the wire ring. I carved until I could remove the ring.


Ring removed. You can see where it laid flat against the trunk


Potted up in a really old, thick and heavy clay pot. I am guessing it was an old Chinese production glazed pot.


Spring flush looks great. I pinched tips as they emerged.


The tree doesnt have the best branch structure as it was one of three of my first Japanese Maples from seedlings. There is not much movement in the trunk as I was shooting for a formal upright. However, I used refinement techniques from the start and I have really short internodes and a lot of possibilities for branch placement.

Let me know if you have any ideas!

 

[coachspinks]

Here are the results of the air layer. I separated it in February 2024. The roots look awesome.

I took it out of the pot and combed out the roots. I could see a small gap in the layer of roots where the new vs old roots met.
View attachment 538437

After root trimming
View attachment 538420

Here is the bottom before I carved it flat. You can barely see the wire ring. I carved until I could remove the ring.
View attachment 538421

Ring removed. You can see where it laid flat against the trunk
View attachment 538422

Potted up in a really old, thick and heavy clay pot. I am guessing it was an old Chinese production glazed pot.
View attachment 538423

Spring flush looks great. I pinched tips as they emerged.
View attachment 538427

The tree doesnt have the best branch structure as it was one of three of my first Japanese Maples from seedlings. There is not much movement in the trunk as I was shooting for a formal upright. However, I used refinement techniques from the start and I have really short internodes and a lot of possibilities for branch placement.

Let me know if you have any ideas!

How long between applying the wire and cutting off the base? I'm looking at doing this with an Amur maple.

 

[Paradox]

Lol about time you cut that big root off!
It would have been gone in 2020 if I had been my choice.

In any case, you have a much better base to work with now

 

[WavyGaby]

How long between applying the wire and cutting off the base? I'm looking at doing this with an Amur maple.

It was about 1 year