What would be the best way to layer this sucker?

[_space_bard_]

I see a nice shohin, but only if I can get as much of the trunk as possible. What would be the best way to layer this off of the large root while keeping as much material as possible? It's a pear tree, and I won't be doing it until spring, just planning ahead.

 

[Shibui]

Pears do not always root well but you could try a couple of approaches.
1 I have used is just tie a wire round the base tight then cover with soil. As the trunk thickens the wire will cut circulation and put out new roots. Surrounding soil will need to have moisture for the new roots to survive. Roots could take 2 years.
2. Just dig the trunk with a chunk of the main root and transplant entire. It should root from the old root. Maintain the trunk just buried to the level where roots are needed and good moisture content. I have had good success transplanting pear suckers with some root attached, even if no feeders are present they will soon root from the remaining piece of root. At some stage roots should issue from the upright trunk if it is kept covered and damp.
3. Toothpick layering could work OK with this one. Drill holes around the trunk where roots are required. Dip toothpicks or matchsticks in rooting hormone and insert into each hole. Leave the sticks in the holes then cover with soil. Sticks prevent the holes from closing so roots should eventually form despite the small wounds. As always, you will need to maintain constant damp or new roots will die.

 

[Bonsai Nut]

I would look for better material - even going to a retail nursery to buy a 5 gallon pear tree - before I would spend the time on this piece of material. Just being honest.

If you are set on working this, I would prioritize fixing the trunk while the tree is still in the ground and has the most strength. Break out your concave cutters, and trim that wound down until you hit live bark, leaving a deep concave. Seal the entire wound. Let the tree grow for several years until the wound closes over, working with a single leader.

Then come back and ask advice about lifting the tree

 

[BrianBay9]

.....3. Toothpick layering could work OK with this one. Drill holes around the trunk where roots are required. Dip toothpicks or matchsticks in rooting hormone and insert into each hole. Leave the sticks in the holes then cover with soil. Sticks prevent the holes from closing so roots should eventually form despite the small wounds. As always, you will need to maintain constant damp or new roots will die.

This is a new one for me. What species have you used this technique on successfully?

 

[rockm]

This isn't worth the trouble. That tiny stump has no realistic potential for much. Sorry.

 

[_space_bard_]

I would look for better material - even going to a retail nursery to buy a 5 gallon pear tree - before I would spend the time on this piece of material. Just being honest.

If you are set on working this, I would prioritize fixing the trunk while the tree is still in the ground and has the most strength. Break out your concave cutters, and trim that wound down until you hit live bark, leaving a deep concave. Seal the entire wound. Let the tree grow for several years until the wound closes over, working with a single leader.

Then come back and ask advice about lifting the tree

It's in my back yard, I'd be doing it more out of boredom and the experience than anything I'll take your advice on fixing it in the ground first.

 

[_space_bard_]

Pears do not always root well but you could try a couple of approaches.
1 I have used is just tie a wire round the base tight then cover with soil. As the trunk thickens the wire will cut circulation and put out new roots. Surrounding soil will need to have moisture for the new roots to survive. Roots could take 2 years.
2. Just dig the trunk with a chunk of the main root and transplant entire. It should root from the old root. Maintain the trunk just buried to the level where roots are needed and good moisture content. I have had good success transplanting pear suckers with some root attached, even if no feeders are present they will soon root from the remaining piece of root. At some stage roots should issue from the upright trunk if it is kept covered and damp.
3. Toothpick layering could work OK with this one. Drill holes around the trunk where roots are required. Dip toothpicks or matchsticks in rooting hormone and insert into each hole. Leave the sticks in the holes then cover with soil. Sticks prevent the holes from closing so roots should eventually form despite the small wounds. As always, you will need to maintain constant damp or new roots will die.

Thanks, I'll try the toothpick method first. Keeping it damp won't be a problem as I already have a drip line running to the main tree, I'd just need to install another nozzle.

 

[Bonsai Nut]

Toothpick layering could work OK with this one. Drill holes around the trunk where roots are required. Dip toothpicks or matchsticks in rooting hormone and insert into each hole. Leave the sticks in the holes then cover with soil. Sticks prevent the holes from closing so roots should eventually form despite the small wounds. As always, you will need to maintain constant damp or new roots will die.

I had to look this up because I've never heard of it before. The process isn't layering at all - it is simply drilling holes in the trunk of a tree, applying rooting hormone, and crossing your fingers. The only place I found a description of this process, the process failed (after waiting four months), and the author ended up cutting an air-layer girdle which succeeded in six weeks In fact, the author goes on to say he has never yet had it succeed with any tree

The process of air-layering is driven by interrupting hormone flow from one part of the tree to another and triggering a tree to produce roots based on changing the hormonal balance of the tree at the wound site.

 

[Ohmy222]

I have never tried it but drilling a hole and inserting match sticks to improve nebari is in one of Naka's Bonsai Techniques books.

 

[_space_bard_]

I had to look this up because I've never heard of it before. The process isn't layering at all - it is simply drilling holes in the trunk of a tree, applying rooting hormone, and crossing your fingers. The only place I found a description of this process, the process failed (after waiting four months), and the author ended up cutting an air-layer girdle which succeeded in six weeks In fact, the author goes on to say he has never yet had it succeed with any tree

The process of air-layering is driven by interrupting hormone flow from one part of the tree to another and triggering a tree to produce roots based on changing the hormonal balance of the tree at the wound site.

Yeah, but with the toothpick method you get to remove the steak chunks that got caught in the trunk.

 

[Shibui]

This is a new one for me. What species have you used this technique on successfully?

mostly maples but it should work on any species that will strike roots.