What would you do next to this Sango kaku JM?

[Mikecheck123]

It's got lots of twigs, but doesn't look quite right. Wondering if I should start over with some hard chops. Ignore the unimportant thread graft experiment for the moment.

Started two years ago as an airlayer. The roots look really good, and I like the double trunk.

 

[Shibui]

I also think some hard cuts are the way to go.
1. First I would work on the roots. Maple bonsai really should have good nebari and it is easier to do that at the start than to try to do a patch up job later when the top looks good.
2. Long internodes need to go. It will only ever sprout buds at nodes so you can't get new branches to grow between. If the trunk or branches are made from long internodes the branches will be too far apart. The best option is to cut them all off and grow those sections again (and sometimes again) to get all trunk and branches made from short internode sections. Difficult to do for newer growers but really necessary for best results long term IMHO.
3. The thick branch on the main trunk is thicker than the taller trunk itself so does not look right. One of them should go. Taking off the thicker one would be best as the thinner trunk then has taper. Grow a new, thinner side branch from the buds that will sprout after cutting the thick one.
4. Find a spot for the front view of the tree. Trunk should go a little toward the back at first but eventually come forward a bit at the top. You still need to grow the top of this tree so just worry about the first move away for now I think. It is not clear from the photo which way those trunks curve so hard to decide where the best view will be.

I actually prefer the natural Japanese maple shape for JM bonsai rather than the traditional informal upright with horizontal branches. Typical natural growth pattern for JM is several rising trunks that gradually spread out until the tips are almost horizontal and form the 'branch' planes.
This one I have shamelessly plucked form Vance Wood's blog is the style I am talking about. I believe it is grown by Walter Pall

You don't need to have as many trunks but note the way the main branches (almost trunks) first head upward then gradually divide and splay out so the tips make foliage pads.
You can grow your Sango kaku any shape you want. i just find that many traditional informal upright styled JM look contrived rather than graceful.

 

[Canada Bonsai]

Started two years ago as an airlayer. The roots look really good

This is very good news about the roots!

Here is another approach. Although this approach is not for everyone (in terms of taste, time scale, etc.), it is an interesting possibility to throw into the mix of options available to you:

The 'suckers' around the base of your tree can be very useful. One could add a few more of these 'trunks' via thread graft around the circumference of the trunk near the surface of the soil. Eventually, these smaller trunks could fully replace the current massive trunks. I attached some images for your consideration

Personally, I have many trees with trunks that were deliberately grown exactly like yours - I don't call them trunks though, I call them sacrifice branches! This makes it easier to accept that 95% of a tree's physical mass will be discarded, while 100% of the tree's value remains.

To be clear, I am not saying that the attached trees were developed this way (i actually don't know!). I am only saying that one could imagine that something similar could be achieved this way.

 

[sorce]

I would take some better pics and ask again!

But seriously......

I'd like to see around the horn at the base.

Sorce

 

[Mikecheck123]

I would take some better pics and ask again!

But seriously......

I'd like to see around the horn at the base.

Sorce

More pics of the tree and base all the way around.

 

[River's Edge]

1. First I would work on the roots. Maple bonsai really should have good nebari and it is easier to do that at the start than to try to do a patch up job later when the top looks good.

I concur with the Roots first approach. Plant the tree in a shallower, wider pot and focus on developing nebari over the next five years. You can reduce longer straight section easily later on. A powerful base and nebari will go a long way to establishing this tree.

 

[Mikecheck123]

I concur with the Roots first approach. Plant the tree in a shallower, wider pot and focus on developing nebari over the next five years. You can reduce longer straight section easily later on. A powerful base and nebari will go a long way to establishing this tree.

The pot is actually shallower than it looks because there's a piece of broken pottery in there. Still think I need a wider one? Thanks.

 

[sorce]

More pics of the tree and base all the way around.

I don't mean to send you on a wild goose chase.....
But....
Something with a little more reference to what is further up is required.

I would want to get rid of key things amidst that clump.
But can't see it too well.

You gotta keep the top in order as you work them Roots.

I like to use a special made root pruning container as close to a half inch bigger than the final pot as can be.

This way, with that rough half inch die back, it'll fit right in your pot with no root pruning needed to fit.

Sorce

 

[Mikecheck123]

I don't mean to send you on a wild goose chase.....
But....
Something with a little more reference to what is further up is required.

I would want to get rid of key things amidst that clump.
But can't see it too well.

You gotta keep the top in order as you work them Roots.

I like to use a special made root pruning container as close to a half inch bigger than the final pot as can be.

This way, with that rough half inch die back, it'll fit right in your pot with no root pruning needed to fit.

Sorce

Ok, I'll take more pics! Appreciate the guidance.