what's happening?!
- Thread starter Shay
- Start date
Smoke
Ignore-Amus
Spray with a fungicide ASAP and allow leaves to stay dry, do not wet them late in the day or allow them to get wet after dark. If you must water the leaves do so in the morning making sure they recieve some sun to dry out. Constant moisture is causing fungus.
Check back in a week to let us know what happens.
Check back in a week to let us know what happens.
What do you use against them? Didn't find fungicides at a local nersery...
Thank you by the way
Smoke
Ignore-Amus
Smoke
Ignore-Amus
There are about a thousand natural yeasts, molds, fungi all floating freeborn in the air all the time. They are just waiting to land on a wet organic leaf and set up shop.
Found something...
My concern is that I am air layering this tree and need as much leaves as possible.
I'll update in a week.
Thank you!!
Cypress187
Masterpiece
How can you see the difference between too much sun/burn and fungi? (it looks so much like burnt).
Its a northern balcony... And the weather was very nice the past month.
Cypress187
Masterpiece
Which implies it's maybe burnt
eugen_onegin
Mame
Smoke, is Daconil safe to use on Maples? I started spraying my pines to treat some needle cast. Have a younger kiyohime that is doing fine but want to get going on a regular fungicide regiment. I had a leftover mix of neem oil concentrate and protekt concentrate from last fall so I diluted Daconil spray with the remaining mixture, added some more water, and sprayed my pines (sorry for the run on sentence). Thoughts?
Smoke
Ignore-Amus
Should be fine. More often light sprays should be fine at weaker dilution. This time of year is hard on maples due to cool temps in spring and dew at night.
aframe
Shohin
Tough to tell from the pic
Maples are susceptible to a fungus that causes leaf curl; especially vulnerable is new soft growth.
However, considering the OP's climate I'd think fungus is not likely the issue.
The pronounced interveinal chlorosis (yellow of the main veins of the pictured leaf) similar to that caused by Iron (Fe) deficiency on the younger leaves.
Iron (Fe) deficiency
Leaves exhibit chlorosis (yellowing) of the leaves mainly between the veins, starting with the lower and middle leaves.
factors that interfere with iron absorption of roots: over irrigation, excessive soluble salts, inadequate drainage or high substrate pH.
High pH is my guess (somewhere above 7.2-8.0, you want to be 6.5 at the highest), I'd test your water.
This may be easily corrected by adding an iron supplement with the next watering.
Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". Balanced fertilizer should be fine
what are you feeding with?
High temps accelerate the dissolution of 'slow-release' fertilizer like osmocote...but my guess is Fe deficiency due to high pH. test your water, pH is the likely culprit.
Maples are susceptible to a fungus that causes leaf curl; especially vulnerable is new soft growth.
However, considering the OP's climate I'd think fungus is not likely the issue.
The pronounced interveinal chlorosis (yellow of the main veins of the pictured leaf) similar to that caused by Iron (Fe) deficiency on the younger leaves.
Iron (Fe) deficiency
Leaves exhibit chlorosis (yellowing) of the leaves mainly between the veins, starting with the lower and middle leaves.
factors that interfere with iron absorption of roots: over irrigation, excessive soluble salts, inadequate drainage or high substrate pH.
High pH is my guess (somewhere above 7.2-8.0, you want to be 6.5 at the highest), I'd test your water.
This may be easily corrected by adding an iron supplement with the next watering.
Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". Balanced fertilizer should be fine
what are you feeding with?
High temps accelerate the dissolution of 'slow-release' fertilizer like osmocote...but my guess is Fe deficiency due to high pH. test your water, pH is the likely culprit.
Thank you for the elaborate answer...
You are right. There was clorosis and I started fe treatment. After the treatment the leevs started to get black dots and shrivel. Can iron do that to the leevs?
Also the water pH here is around 8.5. I will start balancing the water evey time...
I think I did evey mistake possible. Over water, over feeding, to high pH, didn't repot because I wanted a lot of roots to air layer and stuck with poor soil and drainage... Beginner mistakes.
What would you do to fix it?
Thanks again!!
Shay
aframe
Shohin
a treatment will take weeks to correct an imbalance, Fe deficient trees will show speckling and chlorosis; these are not symptoms of your Fe treatment. Especially because you have not corrected the pH issue yet; The black dots are probably localized necrosis; areas of immediate cell death.
I would guess that the leaf curl is from nutrient burn. If you used a lot of Fe it will cause the absorption of more nutrients than are normally possible. Do the leafs feel brittle and thin, like burnt news-paper?
I would do the following:
remove from the pot and assess the roots; if you see white new growth you'll probably be ok to do the following - gently comb out the exterior roots of the root ball with your FINGERS. This means lightly unwind the new growth, saving and protecting all the little new root hairs. Do not try to break up the root ball, your aim is to loosen it as best you can without breaking or damaging the roots (this is nearly impossible to not cause some sort of damage) Then repot into a bigger container with free-draining soil. I'd recommend 80 % perlite 10% peat and 10% sand. Leave all the old soil on the root ball until next year.
If the roots are a black mushy mess; gently remove the dead mushy roots as best you can - they are not helping anything and may only cause further rot. then pot in larger container as described above.
I'd do this to promote new root growth into free draining substrate. this will allow you to water more frequently, as the tree comes back to health.
You need to lower your pH, 6.5 is good, do not go below 6.2 or other macro nutrient may become toxic in your soil. chelated Fe becomes toxic at pH 5.8 and below. fill up a trash can or buckey with water daily - fluoride and chloride will evaporate out of solution if you can let your water sit for 2-3 days before using it, adjust your pH before watering. Do not add nutrients into the water reservoir until your ready to feed your tree. Don't feed your tree until new healthy growth is visible. a solution of peroxide may help; use as directed (1 tbs 3% H2O2 per gallon) the oxidizing effect will kill rot causing fungus and provide oxygen to your starved root system. Again, this is if you find the roots in poor health; watering with H2O2 is a remedy for over watered plants; its a way to deliver oxygen to drowning roots.
aeration of the soil, gentile Fe application (I believe twice a year as directed is all you need, you already did one), free draining soil.
I would guess that the leaf curl is from nutrient burn. If you used a lot of Fe it will cause the absorption of more nutrients than are normally possible. Do the leafs feel brittle and thin, like burnt news-paper?
I would do the following:
remove from the pot and assess the roots; if you see white new growth you'll probably be ok to do the following - gently comb out the exterior roots of the root ball with your FINGERS. This means lightly unwind the new growth, saving and protecting all the little new root hairs. Do not try to break up the root ball, your aim is to loosen it as best you can without breaking or damaging the roots (this is nearly impossible to not cause some sort of damage) Then repot into a bigger container with free-draining soil. I'd recommend 80 % perlite 10% peat and 10% sand. Leave all the old soil on the root ball until next year.
If the roots are a black mushy mess; gently remove the dead mushy roots as best you can - they are not helping anything and may only cause further rot. then pot in larger container as described above.
I'd do this to promote new root growth into free draining substrate. this will allow you to water more frequently, as the tree comes back to health.
You need to lower your pH, 6.5 is good, do not go below 6.2 or other macro nutrient may become toxic in your soil. chelated Fe becomes toxic at pH 5.8 and below. fill up a trash can or buckey with water daily - fluoride and chloride will evaporate out of solution if you can let your water sit for 2-3 days before using it, adjust your pH before watering. Do not add nutrients into the water reservoir until your ready to feed your tree. Don't feed your tree until new healthy growth is visible. a solution of peroxide may help; use as directed (1 tbs 3% H2O2 per gallon) the oxidizing effect will kill rot causing fungus and provide oxygen to your starved root system. Again, this is if you find the roots in poor health; watering with H2O2 is a remedy for over watered plants; its a way to deliver oxygen to drowning roots.
aeration of the soil, gentile Fe application (I believe twice a year as directed is all you need, you already did one), free draining soil.
Last edited:
Vin
Imperial Masterpiece
Way too much for me to take in.
aframe
Shohin
most people don't have pH issues and are blessed with decent water...'MERICA!
bonsai in most applications in hydroponic horticulture. Understanding the relationship between micro/macro nutrients, pH and substrate will make you a better grower.
I should have just said repot and adjust the pH.....really bored at work today.
bonsai in most applications in hydroponic horticulture. Understanding the relationship between micro/macro nutrients, pH and substrate will make you a better grower.
I should have just said repot and adjust the pH.....really bored at work today.
Vin
Imperial Masterpiece
No really, it's good information to know. I'll save it in Word and read it over again.
0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
While I understand that this may be your preference, do you know that another way you can easily get back to a specific post is to right-click on the '#post No' (in the lower right corner of that particular post) and save it to your (browser) favorites? Of course, when you are tired of it, you just delete the shortcut from your favorites list.
Vin
Imperial Masterpiece
I'm officially,,, a Ding Dong.
