Whats your cut paste recipe?

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#1
Over the years we have made and tried dozens of different cut paste recipes most with success from beeswax and mineral oil to plasticine & vegetable oil and everything in between, seeing as we have thousands of trees in development we only use the Japanese cut paste on our large specimen trees as it is expensive on that scale.


I don't often see cut paste recipes discussed on the forum here and thought this would be a good chance to get some new recipes and try them out. So share your recipe below, share pics if you have them. Let's get creative!
 
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#7
Duct seal, in the electrical dept at Home Depot...1 pound brick for less then $3
I've heard of this before, mixing it with some kind of oil or something like that if i remember correctly. Do you mix it with oil yourself? How have the results been either way? Any before / after pics?
 
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#8
I've been using waterproof wood glue with good results. Dries clear too, Takes a couple coats. Easy Peazy.
Thanks to Grimmy for recommending.
We've done this before. use to peal bark from whatever we cut off and "glue it" to the wound, worked good to camouflage the wound while it healed but we found that it does not winter well in our climate so we moved on. Works good when its warm though so those in warmer climates might have good success with it.
 

Dav4

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#9
I've heard of this before, mixing it with some kind of oil or something like that if i remember correctly. Do you mix it with oil yourself? How have the results been either way? Any before / after pics?
Nope. I use it right out of the plastic wrapping. It works just like the imported cut paste in a tub. I've been using it for 3 years or so and like it a lot. The first 2 pics are from a trident that was chopped this past January. The last pic is from the same tree in January that had carving done last summer... you can see the paste beginning to crack and lift as the callus rolls over the carving wounds beneath the paste.
 
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#10
I've some on their second winter since applying in Ohio. Maybe adding the bark was it's downfall.
 
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#11
I've some on their second winter since applying in Ohio. Maybe adding the bark was it's downfall.
It gets much colder up here in Maine than down in Ohio, It usually held up until the sub -10 temperatures, it was when it got colder than 10 below that it started cracking, with or without bark.
 
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#12
Nope. I use it right out of the plastic wrapping. It works just like the imported cut paste in a tub. I've been using it for 3 years or so and like it a lot. The first 2 pics are from a trident that was chopped this past January. The last pic is from the same tree in January that had carving done last summer... you can see the paste beginning to crack and lift as the callus rolls over the carving wounds beneath the paste.
Pictures are not showing for me, just red X's
 

markyscott

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#13
I've heard of this before, mixing it with some kind of oil or something like that if i remember correctly. Do you mix it with oil yourself? How have the results been either way? Any before / after pics?
You can use it out of the packaging but I mix mine with a bit of neem oil. It makes it a bit more pliable and I like to think it helps keep bugs away. Dav4 is right - it looks, feels and smells exactly like the stuff you get in the little can except it's about five bucks a pound instead of $14 an ounce.

It's what I use for big cuts. I don't like the liquids for those - it can get caught up in the callous tissue as it heals and becomes very difficult to remove. I use the liquids for little cuts at the end of branches.
 
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petegreg

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#15
I've seen somewhere mixing plasticine with rooting hormones, but don't have personal experience with it.
 

sorce

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#17
I look at cut paste like this....

Some people use it...
Some don't...

On all the same trees....
And everyone is happy.

I'm not.

Maybe this is another one of those, "my lovely climate" things.

But that grey shit, ends up cracking, or slipping, or not applying at all, then it just traps water better than keeps it out.

This. 20170225_164432.jpg

Creates a wicked tight seal, that holds until the end of the season, after which, it comes off clean as hell.

Cut my Spruce and used it on it, sap is moving and I have no sap loss from the cut. 20170312_101911.jpg

More ficus.
20170112_120851.jpg

I broke a crotch on my box! 20170312_101844~2.jpg

It went from blowing in the breeze to callousing enough to hold them strong again.

Now I just gotta wait for it to spit out the glue, and it'll look like nothi.g ever happened.

I do Now Swear by this stuff.

Experimenting with this this year. 20170225_164519.jpg

Sorce
 
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#18
Duct seal, in the electrical dept at Home Depot...1 pound brick for less then $3
@Dav4 @markyscott (and @ anyone else who uses it) - how easily does this stuff clean off further down the line? I've got a block but haven't tried it yet. I have found some of the Japanese products leave a mess that's difficult to get off the bark, even after callusing has taken place, was looking at this as a better alternative.
 

sorce

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#20
@Dav4 @markyscott (and @ anyone else who uses it) - how easily does this stuff clean off further down the line? I've got a block but haven't tried it yet. I have found some of the Japanese products leave a mess that's difficult to get off the bark, even after callusing has taken place, was looking at this as a better alternative.
Dav4 saying it's just like the Japanese stuff tells me it's just like the Japanese stuff!

That is also why I use that glue.

You can use a very small amount just over the Cambium and get an excellent seal...paper thin.

Totally avoiding the bark.

You could save $ by only applying it to that ring, when it dries, cover the middle with paste...
The grey stuff will probly stick better to the glue...
And provide a better seal.

Sorce
 

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