When chopping back to new leader, question.

Maloghurst

Chumono
Messages
750
Reaction score
1,096
Location
Seattle WA
USDA Zone
8b
I’ve read that when chopping back to new leader we should use knob cutter or grinder and carve out the trunk. I’ve also read that it should be smooth surface with absolutely no burrs or rough spots.
I am curious what gets the best results for full healing of the chop scar? Here are mine with smooth cut. Should I be using knob cutter to make it concave for better healing?
Thanks mike E9FFB90A-F876-4EDD-8E1E-73B25D18AE8A.jpegA07F74F1-49BD-4CE7-94A3-4ACA193CEF80.jpeg8C45BD2D-D52E-43A8-A919-A5A5D8626523.jpeg
 

Cypress187

Masterpiece
Messages
2,726
Reaction score
1,771
Location
Netherland
USDA Zone
8b
Looks pretty good, you could always re-scar it a little bit more next year.
 

Maloghurst

Chumono
Messages
750
Reaction score
1,096
Location
Seattle WA
USDA Zone
8b
It depends on the thickness of the bark. Basically, thin barked species (e.g. azalea, beech) should be flush, and thick barked species should be concave. The thicker the bark, the more concave.
How about your avg deciduous tree? Elm, hawthorn, zelkova, JM. These are the trees I’m wondering about.
Thank you, mike
 

Stan Kengai

Omono
Messages
1,172
Reaction score
1,330
Location
North Georgia
USDA Zone
7a
How about your avg deciduous tree? Elm, hawthorn, zelkova, JM. These are the trees I’m wondering about.
Thank you, mike
Chinese elms have some of the thickest bark and Zelkova are slightly less thick. Japanese maples are rather thin barked and should be slightly concave. I don't have any experience with hawthorn.
 

Maloghurst

Chumono
Messages
750
Reaction score
1,096
Location
Seattle WA
USDA Zone
8b
Does anyone have pictures of their chop scar healing? Preferably the chop and healed over results after?
 

amcoffeegirl

Masterpiece
Messages
2,770
Reaction score
4,794
Location
IOWA
USDA Zone
5b
I thought you were supposed to chop that close to the branch collar???
I guess that is depending on the species perhaps???
 

Maloghurst

Chumono
Messages
750
Reaction score
1,096
Location
Seattle WA
USDA Zone
8b
I thought you were supposed to chop that close to the branch collar???
I guess that is depending on the species perhaps???
Did you mean weren’t or we’re supposed to chop that close to the new leader?
Well this is why I’ve made this post because I see a lot of conflicting info on how to handle a chop.
 

Bonsai Nut

Nuttier than your average Nut
Messages
12,412
Reaction score
27,823
Location
Charlotte area, North Carolina
USDA Zone
8a
Does anyone have pictures of their chop scar healing? Preferably the chop and healed over results after?

I do not have a 100% healed chop scar. But I do have one that is about 50% and is clearly headed in the right direction. I'll post photos tomorrow.
 

Maloghurst

Chumono
Messages
750
Reaction score
1,096
Location
Seattle WA
USDA Zone
8b
This one is almost healed over. I’ll try to update the thread this weekend.
Thanks Brian seems like both smooth and concave are the way to go?
I do not have a 100% healed chop scar. But I do have one that is about 50% and is clearly headed in the right direction. I'll post photos tomorrow.
Thank you!
 

Bonsai Nut

Nuttier than your average Nut
Messages
12,412
Reaction score
27,823
Location
Charlotte area, North Carolina
USDA Zone
8a
Here is a chopped Catlin elm for reference:

I had an ugly s-shaped pre-bonsai that I had had for years and was not happy with in the slightest. It was buried away in my "neglect" area :)

elm1.jpg

So I did this to it, removing the lowest branch (digging out a deep concavity) and turning the stub of the 2nd branch into the new leader.

elm2.jpg

And here it is today. Still working on the roots, as you can see from the new scar at the soil line where I removed a big ugly root this spring.

elm3.jpg

Front scar is healed almost completely. Top scar (from the trunk chop) looks like this. Nice girdle of closing bark - every year getting a little smaller:

elm4.jpg
 

Maloghurst

Chumono
Messages
750
Reaction score
1,096
Location
Seattle WA
USDA Zone
8b
Here is a chopped Catlin elm for reference:

I had an ugly s-shaped pre-bonsai that I had had for years and was not happy with in the slightest. It was buried away in my "neglect" area :)

View attachment 200857

So I did this to it, removing the lowest branch (digging out a deep concavity) and turning the stub of the 2nd branch into the new leader.

View attachment 200858

And here it is today. Still working on the roots, as you can see from the new scar at the soil line where I removed a big ugly root this spring.

View attachment 200859

Front scar is healed almost completely. Top scar (from the trunk chop) looks like this. Nice girdle of closing bark - every year getting a little smaller:

View attachment 200860
Did you concave the big chop? Looks like you did not but I can tell. How many years ago did you do the chop? Also I like tree and the way it’s progressing much better then the S shape. Thank you
 

Bonsai Nut

Nuttier than your average Nut
Messages
12,412
Reaction score
27,823
Location
Charlotte area, North Carolina
USDA Zone
8a
I'd have to go home to see how long it has been since I trunk chopped it. When planning how far you want to cut below the surface Into the Heart Wood you have to plan for the thickness of the bark that will eventually cover the wound. if you want a completely flush scar you have to cut a concave wound. But if you want a bulge or a different shape that will work better with your future plans for the tree you can leave more Heartwood.
 

0soyoung

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
7,496
Reaction score
12,832
Location
Anacortes, WA (AHS heat zone 1)
USDA Zone
8b
I'd have to go home to see how long it has been since I trunk chopped it. When planning how far you want to cut below the surface Into the Heart Wood you have to plan for the thickness of the bark that will eventually cover the wound. if you want a completely flush scar you have to cut a concave wound. But if you want a bulge or a different shape that will work better with your future plans for the tree you can leave more Heartwood.
Spherically concave as made with a knob cutter or concave as a cut made with a concave cutter AND IF a cut made with a concave cutter, is the valley horizontal or vertical (of course, it may be that the cut is flat and the profile is formed by power tools)?

btw, I think you mean live wood or simply wood as the Heart Wood is the dead wood at the core of a bole which has a darker color, often a distinctive reddish hue.
 
Top Bottom