When to do first heavy prune on nursery shohin trident?

[Smoke]

And I'm not questioning your qualifications. I was just offering my observations about bleeding in maples as some of the discussion had moved in that direction (primarily because of what you had written earlier). That happens in discussion forums from time to time.

Agreed, you live in New York. I have no idea what your maples do. I live in California, 350 miles from the OP. I would bet a years salary on my observations for him. I would never try and tell you your business 3000 miles away.

Hell I know this state so good I was able to know where he bought it before he did!!!

 

[Smoke]

Technically I didn't mention JAPANESE MAPLE. I said maples, and if you read all my context I had always been talking about trident maple.

I went back and looked after you accused me. See how this crap escalates when bad things and wrong things get said in a discussion. I was just minding my own business here, not interfering with anyone. I only offered sound advice. You all guys added all the BS.

 

[coh]

Agreed, you live in New York. I have no idea what your maples do. I live in California, 350 miles from the OP. I would bet a years salary on my observations for him. I would never try and tell you your business 3000 miles away.

OK - for reference...I never tried to "tell you (or anyone) your business from 3000 miles away". Here is my exact quote:

Japanese maples definitely leak or ooze or bleed sap (whatever term you want to use, water with sugars and other stuff in it) when I prune in early spring.

Nothing there telling anyone what to do. Simply stating a fact that I've observed in response to previous comments.

I feel that you're trying to lead this down a confrontational path for whatever reason, maybe you're bored or just trying to provoke a reaction. I'm not interested, so that will be it from me in this thread.

 

[Smoke]

OK - for reference...I never tried to "tell you (or anyone) your business from 3000 miles away". Here is my exact quote:



Nothing there telling anyone what to do. Simply stating a fact that I've observed in response to previous comments.

I feel that you're trying to lead this down a confrontational path for whatever reason, maybe you're bored or just trying to provoke a reaction. I'm not interested, so that will be it from me in this thread.

excellent

 

[Smoke]

Apparently...



People were talking about tridents until you brought up Japanese maples, then Shibui picked up on it and here we are. Such is life.
(And regarding tridents, no I've never noticed that they "bleed" to any significant degree)

You left out this first snarky quote, and the part about Japanese maples which I did not say. "YOU" were the only one that mentioned Japanese maples, why I have no idea since this thread is about tridents and if the bleed in CALIFORNIA. Your absolutely correct though to get out of this thread about tridents in California because you have no idea what your talking about.

 

[coh]

@keegan , please let us know what you decide to do with this tree, and how it responds. And let us know if it bleeds when you chop it!

 

[keegan]

You guys crack me up.

I'm gonna run it by Ted Matson, curator at the Huntington collection on Sunday when I see him. But likely I'll wait until I see the buds start to swell a bit and then cut and put some wire on too (maybe even repot, I hear these tridents are pretty hardy).

Feels like that will be February. I'll let you know!

Thanks for the comments and cat fighting,
Keegan

 

[Adair M]

I’ll share my experience with a trident I keep in central California: I cut it back in November. It had dropped about half it’s leaves, and I pulled most of the rest off by hand. The ones that really hung on, I cut off. Then, I cut back. My largest cut was a stem about pencil size thickness. No bleeding that I could discern. I then sealed all the cuts with the kind of cut paste that comes in a tube.

I then did wire a couple branches with aluminum wire! Oh! The horror!!! That wire will be removed mid-spring.

This is the one that’s screwed to a board. I’m interested to see how the roots look after growing on the board for two years.

 

[keegan]

My local expert said it was fine to do root and trimming work on a trident right now. (As opposed to heat-loving deciduous like pomegranate, which he said you should wait until bud swell.) So that's what I'll do!

Thanks!
keegan

 

[Smoke]

My local expert said it was fine to do root and trimming work on a trident right now. (As opposed to heat-loving deciduous like pomegranate, which he said you should wait until bud swell.) So that's what I'll do!

Thanks!
keegan

You should tell Ted about this ass hole Al Keppler on the internet, and that he gave good information but people were angry about his delivery. I have known Ted for 35 years, he has seen all my maples and knows what I can do.

 

[keegan]

Quite the contrary! Al you've been super helpful. I guess my tone didn't come across in my message. I should have added more smiley face emojis . There was no sarcasm intended.

Seriously, thank you, it is very helpful to have the opinion of someone who is in my same climate. All I meant is that it seems like both timings will work, now and at bud push. I've heard both. I was just reporting another opinion so that someone reading this thread later would have more information.

Thanks!
Keegan

 

[BackyardBonsai]

You should tell Ted about this ass hole Al Keppler on the internet, and that he gave good information but people were angry about his delivery. I have known Ted for 35 years, he has seen all my maples and knows what I can do.

View attachment 222620

KFC has a new Uncle Sander? Everything looks so healthy there.

 

[keegan]

Here is another interesting tidbit that Ted mentioned re: trident maple root work, that may be of use to some other folks too. (Of course this applies to working with them here in Los Angeles.)

He said that tridents will grow roots during the "winter" here, and the vigor of the spring push is related to how much the roots have grown since pruning--so if you have a tree in development that you want to push a lot of vigor, do the root work earlier. The tree will have long new white roots by spring and put out vigorous new growth.

And if you have a tree in refinement and you don't want a lot of vigor (longer internodes, etc) in the spring push, then wait later to do the root work. Then the tree will have fewer and shorter new white roots by bud push and so will have less "push" in the spring. Ted said the canopy of the tree will sort of just "pop" and sit there rather than really elongate, which is preferable for a refined tree.

Cool little piece of info. It is fun to learn little bits from here and there as I get deeper down the rabbit hole!
Keegan

 

[Smoke]

KFC has a new Uncle Sander? Everything looks so healthy there.

I tried out for it but the suit was too small...

 

[Smoke]

Everything looks so healthy there.

Since you mention it, do you feel that is a problem with a lot of people? Working on weak material. I push the shit out of my trees and I expect them to respond to the work. If they don't something is wrong. I've had things go wrong.....

 

[Smoke]

That picture was 2015....I'm not that fat anymore. Lost three pounds.

nah...I'm about 20 pounds lighter than that picture. Diagnosed type II in 2017. Had to lose some weight.