when to repot ume

Brian Van Fleet

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#2
Same time as all other d-trees in the spring, but don't take off (m)any fine roots. You can shorten the thick ones. I repot mine pretty much annually, but it's more a soil change than a root prune.
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#3
I was looking at mine today and I noticed a few holes on the leaves. I looked closer but I couldn't find any bugs. I'll take a photo tomorrow
 
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#6
If it is in fact shothole, the best treatment is prevention: avoid overhead watering, remove leaf debris and contaminated mulch, and make sure the tree has good airflow around it.

Treatment includes antifungal sprays containing mancozeb and/or fixed copper compounds. Follow directions on the label.

Honestly, this goes for most folial fungi you'll encounter
 

GrimLore

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#7
I was looking at mine today and I noticed a few holes on the leaves. I looked closer but I couldn't find any bugs. I'll take a photo tomorrow
Picture would help, could be Japanese Beetles at night in these parts...

Grimmy
 

Dav4

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#8
I was looking at mine today and I noticed a few holes on the leaves. I looked closer but I couldn't find any bugs. I'll take a photo tomorrow
In my experience, Ume, being a member of the Rose family, tend to be afflicted by multiple insects and fungal maladies. By this time of year, the leaves start to look a bit ratty here and there, but more so on the trees I have growing out in the yard. If the damage is sparse, I honestly wouldn't concern myself with it too much, but continue to monitor until leaf drop this fall. Fwiw, I have started dressing the soil of my potted Ume with granular Clearys, a systemic anti-fungal, each late winter as they break dormancy. So far, so good.
 

Giga

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#9
Depending on your climate, you can repot from right after flowering to early spring before buds open. Just protect from frost. And don't go heavy on the root pruning. Light racking and maybe one large root removal if needed. Ume are a magnet so you should treat regularly. I use systematic twice a year and copper and draconial when needed
 
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Oklahoma
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#12
Very minor damage, so I wouldn't worry about this.
I get small damage like this on my trident maple quite often. It never seems to lead to anything too serious but what could be some of the causes of this type of damage?
 
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#13
Sort of off topic but I'm struggling with the styling of this thing? The first photo is the front that I picked out. I feel like there is an ugly gap in between the foliage. The second photo is the back. And the third is where I'm contemplating to trunk chop it. Any opinions? I don't have much experience with styling so anything helps.
 

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petegreg

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#14
The main imperfection is the straight trunk going out of soil just straight up. No problem with a such a young tree. Play with it, tilt it... I like your criss-crossed picture by red, the idea of getting rid of actual leader, but much later, I'd let it run free as a sacrifice growth and A-L it later.
 

Brian Van Fleet

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#16
Sort of off topic but I'm struggling with the styling of this thing? The first photo is the front that I picked out. I feel like there is an ugly gap in between the foliage. The second photo is the back. And the third is where I'm contemplating to trunk chop it. Any opinions? I don't have much experience with styling so anything helps.
Looks like you lost a couple significant branches that have resulted in a thought to redesign the tree? If you want a project, you could chop it and make the first right branch a new section of trunk. Though, it really doesn't solve the problem. What's there looks healthy, and in fact, it looks like you'll have flowers this winter.

Maybe leave the shoots long and use them to thread-graft new branches on where you lost some recently. If you want to go that route, start wiring a couple long and strong shoots down so they're bent down close to where you need them before they get too stiff and brittle, then thread-graft them just before the buds start to swell next spring.
 

Brian Van Fleet

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#20
I’m going to follow this care guide I found on the internet
What could possibly go wrong?
It says to cut back after flowering. How hard can I cut back? Do I only cut back the green stems or can I cut back to the woody part of the branches?
And that’s the problem with just following something you found on the internet. I don’t understand the logic of following a guide that leaves you still asking the most basic of questions while disregarding people here who have experience with ume and a willingness to help you.

Here are several articles I have written on ume that address all of your questions. Photos, directions, and results, even an interview with a botanist. If you want to get the results I get, you’re welcome to follow along. Best of luck.
 

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