When to trim Larch?

Lazylightningny

Masterpiece
Messages
2,257
Reaction score
2,107
Location
Downstate New York, Zone 6b
USDA Zone
6b
I have not taken a recent photo of new growth. I'll try to get to it this weekend.

This is a European weeping larch. Photo 1, as purchased, minus breaking off the top at the nursery. That raised some eyebrows. Photo 2, as pruned when I got home. I left 2-3 buds on each branch. Photo 3, now with very coarse growth after heavy organic fertilization.

20180325_124354.jpg20180325_124726.jpg20180521_094615.jpg
 

Vance Wood

Lord Mugo
Messages
14,002
Reaction score
16,913
Location
Michigan
USDA Zone
5-6
I believe earlier in this thread someone (Vance?) explained that letting it grow out and harden off would result in much longer internodes.
That is true. If you take the time to look at a Larch that has been allowed to grow wild you will notice that the bud form at about 1/2 to 1 inch apart. That is going to be the ramification of your tree. If you pinch by the end of the season you will all sorts of new buds with very short internodes.
 

KiwiPlantGuy

Omono
Messages
1,051
Reaction score
1,353
Location
New Zealand
USDA Zone
9a
That is true. If you take the time to look at a Larch that has been allowed to grow wild you will notice that the bud form at about 1/2 to 1 inch apart. That is going to be the ramification of your tree. If you pinch by the end of the season you will all sorts of new buds with very short internodes.

Hi Vance,
I understand now the principle of pinching Larches for ramification. My question is about larches that are only 1-4 years old.
Do I let them grow freely all over?
Do I just let the top grow, and start pinching the kept branches?
Or just pinch all over as trunk thickening will still happen?

Thanks for all the explanations you have given in this thread.
Charles
 

Vance Wood

Lord Mugo
Messages
14,002
Reaction score
16,913
Location
Michigan
USDA Zone
5-6
Hi Vance,
I understand now the principle of pinching Larches for ramification. My question is about larches that are only 1-4 years old.
Do I let them grow freely all over?
Do I just let the top grow, and start pinching the kept branches?
Or just pinch all over as trunk thickening will still happen?

Thanks for all the explanations you have given in this thread.
Charles
No, pinch them as well and fertilize the snot out of them to get really dense compact growth. It is better to have to face a choice of which branches to eliminate and a lot of secondary and tertiary growth than bemoan having too little growth to work with.
 

MartyB

Yamadori
Messages
81
Reaction score
31
Location
Laval, Quebec
USDA Zone
6a
Here is my next year(s) project tree. I know its a very straight trunk, I am working with it anyway. I am also not a smoker but borrowed a pack for scale.

In any case, I would like to reduce this to a 18-24inch tall tree next spring. Any tips on how to get from this format to a bonsai pot? @Wilson was kind enough to suggest I might do the pot reduction over two years due to the current size if the pot. I am not clear tho with regards to if I can cut some back already, pinching etc. Shopping for the Nick Lenz book hoping to find it for less than 200$ (!)

one thing that concerns me is that the needle vigour on the upper part of the tree is (not surprisingly ) much more vigorous than the somewhat more scraggly needles lower down. I am giving this tree full sun every day and I pruned back the middle and top branches when I got it so more sun would get to the lower part of the tree and I am happy to see it is pushing out a new flush of growth, more subdued than higher up naturally. In any case, any info to make me closer to a tree in training much appreciated!


B762C31F-79AF-4F3A-90E6-82A5F85EA914.jpeg
 

Vance Wood

Lord Mugo
Messages
14,002
Reaction score
16,913
Location
Michigan
USDA Zone
5-6
I would then wire up a new leader. Give it some movement. This is the major flaw with Larch, they tend to be very linear and grow in straight lines this way and that.
 

MartyB

Yamadori
Messages
81
Reaction score
31
Location
Laval, Quebec
USDA Zone
6a
I love this forum. Thank you kindly folks. And yes @Wilson that is pretty much where I was planning to reduce to, above that cluster.

Would it make sense to then in the spring pre-bud-break reduce the length of the lower branches, repot into better substrate perhaps a half size smaller pot, and then repeat that same procedure the following spring 2020 to put into a bonsai training pot?
 

leatherback

The Treedeemer
Messages
14,037
Reaction score
27,322
Location
Northern Germany
USDA Zone
7
Like @leatherback said, chopping the top will set this tree on it's path. I threw a line on there, but you can judge the scale needed for your design.

Maybe for now trim there, to keep the lower branches. But I would cut a LOT lower in winter, and only keep the lowest 2 or so branches to work with.
 

WNC Bonsai

Omono
Messages
1,899
Reaction score
2,159
Location
Western NC
USDA Zone
7b
@Vance Wood if you acquire a bunch of larch seedlings that have been allowed to grow wild, what is the best strategy to get them reduced and ready to develop? Should they be cut back to the last node and then pinched as you describe? Can this drastic pruning be done in the grownig season or should you wait until winter? Here is a photo of a couple.
 

Attachments

  • 92557888-D8AA-4C70-8DB7-6AAD819156BD.jpeg
    92557888-D8AA-4C70-8DB7-6AAD819156BD.jpeg
    457.8 KB · Views: 120

M. Frary

Bonsai Godzilla
Messages
14,307
Reaction score
22,120
Location
Mio Michigan
USDA Zone
4
@Vance Wood if you acquire a bunch of larch seedlings that have been allowed to grow wild, what is the best strategy to get them reduced and ready to develop? Should they be cut back to the last node and then pinched as you describe? Can this drastic pruning be done in the grownig season or should you wait until winter? Here is a photo of a couple.
I'd pinch them first than you will have better choices for cutting back after the shoots extend from the buds after pinching.
 

Vance Wood

Lord Mugo
Messages
14,002
Reaction score
16,913
Location
Michigan
USDA Zone
5-6
Let them go wild for a couple of three years then cut them back heavily, wire up a new leader and let that develop for a while. Do this a number or times and you start developing a tapered trunk with a big butt--ress. Get the trunk started then start working on the branches and the growth as I have described previously.
 

Jorgens86

Mame
Messages
128
Reaction score
73
Location
Latvia
USDA Zone
6
Hi. After almoste a year. How is your larches doing?!
 

Vance Wood

Lord Mugo
Messages
14,002
Reaction score
16,913
Location
Michigan
USDA Zone
5-6
You should start working on the new growth as soon as it extends enough so it looks like a little paint brush, the kind used in water colors. Then with one hand support the base of the bud/shoot and carefully grasp the center of the paint brush and with the other hand, thumb and and opposing finger, pull it outward. If done properly you will not be able to tell where the growth was truncated, shortened, pinched, or what ever the cause celeb decides to call this technique. Important; you do not use scissors to do this.
 
Top Bottom