junmilo
Shohin
Thank you
JZ
JZ
where to find 3% IBA rooting hormone?
- Thread starter junmilo
- Start date
Brian Van Fleet
Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
I use Dip 'N Grow, at Gary Wood's suggestion. It's a liquid concentrate that comes with a measuring/diluting cup for diluting it to different strengths as marked on the side if the cup.
http://www.amazon.com/2-Ounce-Dip-G...8&qid=1415881542&sr=1-1&keywords=dip+and+grow
No luck yet on pines or J. beech, but most everything else has had decent results.
http://www.amazon.com/2-Ounce-Dip-G...8&qid=1415881542&sr=1-1&keywords=dip+and+grow
No luck yet on pines or J. beech, but most everything else has had decent results.
barrosinc
Masterpiece
Is there too much of a difference if you use just any rooting hormone?
0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
jk_lewis
Masterpiece
Are here really people who don't know about Google or Bing or Yahoo! ?
Smoke
Ignore-Amus
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
(1) To answer your question, literally, I don't know. The highest I have ever gone was Hormex 16 (1.6%)
(2) I am assuming you are going to dilute it? Just curious why you want that strength...
If you think putting it on Al's head is going to work, think again (sorry Al you walked into it)
0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
Seriously?
You couldn't read or click the link to Hormex's site or type Hormex in the serch bar and see that Hormex makes a 3% powder (and that 4.5% IBA powder is the max they produce)?
jk_lewis
Masterpiece
More (of anything) is seldom better.
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
I have no idea who you are talking to, but in case it is me, let me assure you that I know what products Hormex makes. Because I have a $100 box of Hormex 16, I haven't needed to shop for more recently. Typically when people ask for suggestions of where they buy a product, it is not helpful to say "use Google". I ask for suggestions all the time - and I usually get better results than when I do a Google search. Just because you buy direct from the manufacturer doesn't mean that is the only (or best) method. Usually that is the single most EXPENSIVE method because a manufacturer will never want to undercut their retailers on price.
My second question gets to the point that, in the case of rooting hormone, more is not always better. You have to mix the hormone strength to the job and the tree. Too strong is worse than none at all. My Hormex 16 is too strong to use on anything that I do with bonsai. I have to cut it. Rather than mess around with it, I prefer to buy Hormadin at lower strengths for most jobs.
I honestly don't know why you are getting so hostile.
thumblessprimate1
Masterpiece
From what I've read, people recommend using the 3% variety for pine cuttings. I'm curious what else it might be excellent for.
davetree
Omono
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
First, let me just say - if you are doing something and it works, keep doing it.
However I want to make sure people don't get confused between Hormex #3, and 3% IBA. Hormex #3 is .3% IBA. In order to get 3.0% IBA you need to order Hormex #30 (cost about $200 per pound).
The Hormex site itself recommends Hormex #3 or #8 for pines. I can't find my USDA woody plant reference at the moment. If you use too strong of a rooting compound on your trees, you will burn the roots and potentially kill the tree. I would HIGHLY recommend not using Hormex #30 on ANYTHING that already has roots (ie cuttings and air-layers only - and only if you know people are already using it successfully).
People using rooting compound probably already know all of this, but I wanted to state it for the record in case people come here for reference. I have always found the Hormex naming convention confusing (but maybe that's just me).
junmilo
Shohin
Hi all,
Maybe it was my original post that caused all this unnecessary confrontations. Sorry.
The reason that I am asking is everything I am finding here in the good old North (Canada) is 0.3% IBA....when I ask the nursery ppl...they said they never heard or saw or sold that high % of rooting compound.
I initially I thought 0.3 IBA on a label here in Canada is 3.0 IBA in the USA.
Thank you again for the clarifications. Now I know that I'll never be able to get the 3% IBA here in Canada.
Regards,
JZ
Maybe it was my original post that caused all this unnecessary confrontations. Sorry.
The reason that I am asking is everything I am finding here in the good old North (Canada) is 0.3% IBA....when I ask the nursery ppl...they said they never heard or saw or sold that high % of rooting compound.
I initially I thought 0.3 IBA on a label here in Canada is 3.0 IBA in the USA.
Thank you again for the clarifications. Now I know that I'll never be able to get the 3% IBA here in Canada.
Regards,
JZ
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
I have to be careful what I say here, because I have never tried pine cuttings. If people are using Hormex #30 with good success for pine cuttings, awesome!
Typically the reason nurseries don't carry a 3.0% IBA product is that it is considered too high for practical use in almost all normal applications. It is considered a concentrate that you would dilute before you would use, and is extremely expensive. Most people would not consider shelling out $200 per lb for 3% IBA, when they can buy .3% for $20 per lb that you can use in most cases without further dilution.
By the way... if someone reading this has experience with black pine cuttings, I would love to hear about your experience, what you have been successful with, and some photos!
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
Perhaps the best way to think about rooting hormone is to think of it like fertilizer. Too little and you are not letting your tree grow to its potential. Too much (or too strong)... and you have a dead tree. Doesn't matter so much if you burn up a bunch of cuttings, but if you are trying to get new roots to pop on the nebari of an old pine... be careful about what you are doing.
0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
A slight exaggeration.
Excessive IBA concentration might kill a cutting and might kill an air-layered branch, but it won't kill or even affect a tree (except, possibly, if you're layering the trunk near the ground, below all foliage).
On cuttings, excessive IBA concentration powder will cause necrosis at the cut end, but roots will often emerge anyway, just above the necrotic tissues.
On air layers, excessive IBA concentration cause a reaction product that is conveyed upward in the xylem stream that advances processes of leaf senescence. There is no effect on the rest of the tree and no permanent effect on leaf coloration (i.e., leafs are normally colored in the subsequent seasons).
1.6% IBA powder applied to a girdle on acer palmatum will cause the leafs of the layered branch to produce anthocyanins which give them a red color. This red will grow even more intense in fall and occurs earlier than on the rest of the tree. You should try it - the fall coloration is very intense and quite beautiful. The rooting of layers with 1.6% IBA was indistinguishable from that with 0.8%. 1.6% IBA has the same effect on stewartia pseudocamelia air-layers.
On Japanese hornbeam, 4.5% IBA causes a similar shift of the layered branch's leafs to yellow (production of anthocyanins isn't in their genes) and early leaf drop, though it is only a week or two before the leafs on untreated branches.
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