Which seedlings should I save?

fossiliferous

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Hi all! I’ve lurked for a while but finally made an account recently.
I have a variety of seedlings in my flowerbeds that probably descended directly from the mature trees around my home. Cliffracer’s recent thread about the maple seedlings was of great interest to me! I’m very interested in bonsai with the North American native species. It looks like I may be working from home permanently now and spending a lot more time around here.

As experienced bonsai practitioners, in your opinion, which of these otherwise doomed young trees are worth saving for bonsai? We know they like my yard since they started growing in it so that’s a good start.
These are all recent “volunteers” that came up this year. I attached a collage with some photos but it is not comprehensive.

These are my options:
  1. Pin Oak (Quercus palustris)
  2. American Sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua)
  3. Red Maple (Acer rubrum)
  4. Redbud (Cercis canadensis)
  5. American Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis)
  6. Tulip poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera)

I have interest in growing something I personally gathered, but I don’t want to be setting myself up for pure frustration either. Some searching on the Internet shows that these have all been used for bonsai but not all are recommended. If I were to save a few to play around with for the next several years or beyond, which would you suggest?

Related but not the most pressing concern: In addition to our native trees, we have some other interesting characters on the property that I’m mulling turning into bonsai from cuttings one day, if I can figure it out. We have two unknown, probably decades-old, junipers, and three different crepe myrtle varieties. Two of them in particular I suspect would be fun for bonsai. Something that is not commonly done around here was done by the original homeowners to these crepe myrtles and we have continued it. They have been trained to be like trees with one main branching trunk rather than becoming the bushy shrubs that they seem to naturally tend towards. It involves just super basic stuff: cutting off lower growth, especially everything that comes out at the base in springtime, and selecting and trimming branches. It is not effortless, but it is easy and has been worthwhile. The bark is beautiful and heals well. We have gotten many comments about how attractive they are. I see how they respond to the trimming and it makes me want to see what they could do as bonsai.

Back to the seedlings: most of these trees cannot, alas, be left alone in the ground for a few more years to thicken. One with an interesting curved trunk is thriving growing through burnt debris in the firepit. It was a good place to germinate but it won’t last long there!

Thank you all for your input!
 

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Leo in N E Illinois

The Professor
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You are in Tennessee, lots of interesting native trees that are good for bonsai, but none of those seem to be in your back yard.

Look for elm seedlings, if you get them, they are excellent for bonsai.

Red maple, Acer rubrum is good for medium to larger scale bonsai, think 24 inches tall and taller. OR wider. It is not a good one for "tiny trees".

American sweetgum is similar to red maple in that it makes good bonsai if you are shooting for medium to large size trees. Hard to get proportions right for a small tree.

Pin oak, is like most oaks, slow to develop. You are looking at 20 or more years before it becomes "bonsai". Most oaks make good bonsai, but because of slow development, are usually collected as 50 to 300 year old trunks, that way the first half century of growing is already out of the way. Bur oak has the most coarse bark of the northern oaks. There are a number of good oaks in Tenn, and pin oak is considered okay for bonsai.

Redbud is a tree many have tried, and many have failed with. I don't know details of why they fail. I have not attempted one. But there are very. very few photos of redbud as bonsai.

The rest on your list, Tulip poplar, and Sycamore, are extremely poor choices to use for bonsai. Huge leaves, never come into proportion.

Look for American hornbeam - Carpinus caroliniana, Loose flowered hornbeam - Ostrya virginiana, and American beech - Fagus grandifolia, as these 3 are native to Tenn and are excellent for bonsai. Also look for elm, any species of elm, native or introduced will work for bonsai. Even the large leaves of American elm will reduce nicely.

Also look for American persimmon, Diospyros virginiana - makes a stunning bonsai if you can get the repotting and root pruning down. Right now I loose a significant number of my seedlings every time I repot. I need to figure out why. Wonderful bark, dark and alligator plated, fruit is attractive. White flowers in spring. All in all a nice species for bonsai. Native to Tenn.
 

fossiliferous

Sapling
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Tennessee
You are in Tennessee, lots of interesting native trees that are good for bonsai, but none of those seem to be in your back yard.

Look for elm seedlings, if you get them, they are excellent for bonsai.

Red maple, Acer rubrum is good for medium to larger scale bonsai, think 24 inches tall and taller. OR wider. It is not a good one for "tiny trees".

American sweetgum is similar to red maple in that it makes good bonsai if you are shooting for medium to large size trees. Hard to get proportions right for a small tree.

Pin oak, is like most oaks, slow to develop. You are looking at 20 or more years before it becomes "bonsai". Most oaks make good bonsai, but because of slow development, are usually collected as 50 to 300 year old trunks, that way the first half century of growing is already out of the way. Bur oak has the most coarse bark of the northern oaks. There are a number of good oaks in Tenn, and pin oak is considered okay for bonsai.

Redbud is a tree many have tried, and many have failed with. I don't know details of why they fail. I have not attempted one. But there are very. very few photos of redbud as bonsai.

The rest on your list, Tulip poplar, and Sycamore, are extremely poor choices to use for bonsai. Huge leaves, never come into proportion.

Look for American hornbeam - Carpinus caroliniana, Loose flowered hornbeam - Ostrya virginiana, and American beech - Fagus grandifolia, as these 3 are native to Tenn and are excellent for bonsai. Also look for elm, any species of elm, native or introduced will work for bonsai. Even the large leaves of American elm will reduce nicely.

Also look for American persimmon, Diospyros virginiana - makes a stunning bonsai if you can get the repotting and root pruning down. Right now I loose a significant number of my seedlings every time I repot. I need to figure out why. Wonderful bark, dark and alligator plated, fruit is attractive. White flowers in spring. All in all a nice species for bonsai. Native to Tenn.
Thank you so much! I really appreciate your insight! I may have som elm in the yard, or hornbeam. There are several trees out back without showy flowers or interesting fruits back there and the leaves may be right. Will check! Several have been growing along the fence for a good while and have several years’ worth of growth already that would lend some great trunk thickness if they’re the right kind. This is all great information to know, and I’ll be sure to keep an eye out for beech and persimmon. Thank you again!
 

sorce

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I'd be more interested in the Juniper and Crape.

Welcome to Crazy!

Sorce
 

fossiliferous

Sapling
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I'd be more interested in the Juniper and Crape.

Welcome to Crazy!

Sorce
thanks!! Perfect crazy hobby!
It seems to be those junipers and crapes are more promising species. Awesome, no worries. I’m glad I asked here!!
 

CliffracerX

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Hey, glad to see my own adventures in tiny trees have been inspirational and/or informational for other peeps! Thought I'd pop in and provide some advice I've received & info I've found in my research and/or personal experiences so far as a patron of the tiny forest. Wall of text incoming:
  • While starting from seedlings or cuttings is one of the faster ways to get your own Bonsai going, it's still a many year-long project. If my maples make it, I don't imagine they'll be ready for making into bonsai for at least 2 or 3 years, and that's considering the extent of my goals for them is "keep them alive and one day make them into brooms of some kind" - letting them grow from scratch or near-to is a long process!
  • With that in mind, don't let that discourage you from taking seedlings into your care or rooting cuttings, even the non-ideal ones - even though the Acer Rubrums are far from typical bonsai material, AFAIK your main difficulty for the first few years is just gonna be keeping them alive, happy, and healthy so they can grow out & mature a bit.
    • Many of the difficulties they bring as bonsai are specifically for styling - for instance, the Rubrums in particular are only an issue because, left to their own devices, they like putting out giant leaves the size of your face - which is great for big trees! Not so much so if your goal is a tiny tree, though.
    • Due to the long time in between now & them being ready for bonsai styling, you've got plenty of time to hone your skills & learn more so that when they are ready, you'll be all set to turn them into something beautiful.
  • While you're waiting for seedlings to grow or cuttings to take (and then to grow), you should definitely pick up some additional material in other phases of life to learn your way around styling & keep things interesting so you don't burn yourself out on bonsai just waiting for things to grow.
    • A young-ish & small-ish bonsai from a reputable dealer (or a box office, if you're willing to take a gamble on more difficult maintenance & needing to triple-check what species you're picking up so you don't end up with a tree way outside your skill range or climate) is a nice way of learning about the specifics of bonsai care, and often still have lots of potential for being polished into the exact style you want.
      • For instance, the Fukien Tea I picked up at Lowes was clearly meant to be a formal broom in the middle of the Shohnin range - which is exactly what I would've wanted!
        • (PSA: Please do not go out and buy a Fukien Tea at Lowes. They are difficult to care for and have pretty specific needs that're only really met by being outdoors in the tropics, or if you have a room that meets some very exacting requirements, which luckily the room where it lives does - decent humidity (30%+), lots of light, and temperatures consistently within the 60-80F range.)
      • But, the canopy's pretty lop-sided, and there's no Nebari to speak of, so my long-term goal with it is going to be filling in the current negative space in the canopy & growing out a Nebari. In spite of that, it's beautiful, calming, and so far has been fairly low-maintenance - I occasionally mist the leaves, water it every couple of days when the soil's feeling dry, and recently trimmed off some new growth that wasn't adding to the canopy's silhouette.
      • The best place for sourcing bonsai is a local bonsai nursery, if any are near you. Beyond that, I know mail-order ones exist, but know very little about which are considered trustworthy or not.
      • The outdoors section of your local box-offices stores will likely also carry some, but they've usually not been cared for super-well, may be in a potting nightmare situation (e.g, rootbound, entirely organic substrate, etc), and sometimes will have things like rocks glued to the top that can make watering the actual soil difficult, or leech toxins into the water that'll ultimately kill the tree. Their documentation is slim, species unspecified, and if you're not careful you could come home with something beyond your level of skill or raw capability to care for, like a Fukien Tea.
        • If you're willing to take on that risk & the likely imminent need to re-pot one as soon as the season is right, you can do so - they do likely have a better shot at surviving in the hands of a well-researched newbie than the average person who impulse-buys one - but you may very well end just end up with a forgettable planter as a consolation prize.
    • Grabbing some raw material (e.g, nursery trees/prebonsai) is also a decent plan - they're usually fairly cheap, and you can get into styling them almost immediately to learn the ins and outs of shaping trees w/out worrying you're going to destroy a many-year-old beauty. I personally opted to do this with some Portulacaria Afra, since it's comparatively quick-growing, durable as heck, and, as LittleJadeBonsai shows, can produce beautiful results in shockingly little time, especially if you shoot for the Mame or Shohnin size range, which are my jam. Plus, if you're at a shortage for material, cuttings from regular maintenance can easily be rooted & become viable material comparatively quickly.
  • Also note that not all trees grow at the same rate! IIRC, most pines, junipers included, take longer to reach the prebonsai state than other species of trees - though they do reward you with being utterly gorgeous when you finally get there & get them styled, so if you're really buckling in for the long haul, the results will definitely be worth it.
  • Furthermore, note that anything you transplant or take from cuttings is gonna need special care & to stay in the outdoors - AFAIK none of the species you have in mind do well indoors for anything much more than a brief period to present them, and all will need the sunlight + temperature differentials of living outside long-term.
    • Short-term may require bringing them inside somewhere with *some* light but nothing direct, just so as to avoid direct sun scorching their leaves or excessive summer heat wicking all the water out of them. My maples have mostly been living on a screen porch, though they've had a couple of (unfortunately very sunny) days out on the front porch again recently - they have definitely preferred coolness and shade to getting much actual light & I may very well move them back, or even indoors for a little while just to keep them from getting roasted by late afternoon sun & heat.
  • Also, remember to fertilise things once they're established, as well as to figure out what kind of fertiliser they'll want! I've not done the maples yet as they're still recovering from the transplant (almost two weeks ago now), but I expect sometime in the next week or two will be their first proper feeding. Not done the Fukien Tea yet as I'm still not 100% clear on what mix/type of fertiliser it prefers, but that's likely to be coming up soon as well.
  • Some, or maybe even all of this stuff you already almost certainly know, but figured I'd throw it out here anyway, just in case - can't hurt to try, and if it helps keep your trees happy, then it's effort well-spent.
Like Sorce already said - welcome to crazy, and best of luck in your own adventures into the tiny forest!
 

Mikecheck123

Omono
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Hey, glad to see my own adventures in tiny trees have been inspirational and/or informational for other peeps! Thought I'd pop in and provide some advice I've received & info I've found in my research and/or personal experiences so far as a patron of the tiny forest. Wall of text incoming:
  • While starting from seedlings or cuttings is one of the faster ways to get your own Bonsai going, it's still a many year-long project. If my maples make it, I don't imagine they'll be ready for making into bonsai for at least 2 or 3 years, and that's considering the extent of my goals for them is "keep them alive and one day make them into brooms of some kind" - letting them grow from scratch or near-to is a long process!
  • With that in mind, don't let that discourage you from taking seedlings into your care or rooting cuttings, even the non-ideal ones - even though the Acer Rubrums are far from typical bonsai material, AFAIK your main difficulty for the first few years is just gonna be keeping them alive, happy, and healthy so they can grow out & mature a bit.
    • Many of the difficulties they bring as bonsai are specifically for styling - for instance, the Rubrums in particular are only an issue because, left to their own devices, they like putting out giant leaves the size of your face - which is great for big trees! Not so much so if your goal is a tiny tree, though.
    • Due to the long time in between now & them being ready for bonsai styling, you've got plenty of time to hone your skills & learn more so that when they are ready, you'll be all set to turn them into something beautiful.
  • While you're waiting for seedlings to grow or cuttings to take (and then to grow), you should definitely pick up some additional material in other phases of life to learn your way around styling & keep things interesting so you don't burn yourself out on bonsai just waiting for things to grow.
    • A young-ish & small-ish bonsai from a reputable dealer (or a box office, if you're willing to take a gamble on more difficult maintenance & needing to triple-check what species you're picking up so you don't end up with a tree way outside your skill range or climate) is a nice way of learning about the specifics of bonsai care, and often still have lots of potential for being polished into the exact style you want.
      • For instance, the Fukien Tea I picked up at Lowes was clearly meant to be a formal broom in the middle of the Shohnin range - which is exactly what I would've wanted!
        • (PSA: Please do not go out and buy a Fukien Tea at Lowes. They are difficult to care for and have pretty specific needs that're only really met by being outdoors in the tropics, or if you have a room that meets some very exacting requirements, which luckily the room where it lives does - decent humidity (30%+), lots of light, and temperatures consistently within the 60-80F range.)
      • But, the canopy's pretty lop-sided, and there's no Nebari to speak of, so my long-term goal with it is going to be filling in the current negative space in the canopy & growing out a Nebari. In spite of that, it's beautiful, calming, and so far has been fairly low-maintenance - I occasionally mist the leaves, water it every couple of days when the soil's feeling dry, and recently trimmed off some new growth that wasn't adding to the canopy's silhouette.
      • The best place for sourcing bonsai is a local bonsai nursery, if any are near you. Beyond that, I know mail-order ones exist, but know very little about which are considered trustworthy or not.
      • The outdoors section of your local box-offices stores will likely also carry some, but they've usually not been cared for super-well, may be in a potting nightmare situation (e.g, rootbound, entirely organic substrate, etc), and sometimes will have things like rocks glued to the top that can make watering the actual soil difficult, or leech toxins into the water that'll ultimately kill the tree. Their documentation is slim, species unspecified, and if you're not careful you could come home with something beyond your level of skill or raw capability to care for, like a Fukien Tea.
        • If you're willing to take on that risk & the likely imminent need to re-pot one as soon as the season is right, you can do so - they do likely have a better shot at surviving in the hands of a well-researched newbie than the average person who impulse-buys one - but you may very well end just end up with a forgettable planter as a consolation prize.
    • Grabbing some raw material (e.g, nursery trees/prebonsai) is also a decent plan - they're usually fairly cheap, and you can get into styling them almost immediately to learn the ins and outs of shaping trees w/out worrying you're going to destroy a many-year-old beauty. I personally opted to do this with some Portulacaria Afra, since it's comparatively quick-growing, durable as heck, and, as LittleJadeBonsai shows, can produce beautiful results in shockingly little time, especially if you shoot for the Mame or Shohnin size range, which are my jam. Plus, if you're at a shortage for material, cuttings from regular maintenance can easily be rooted & become viable material comparatively quickly.
  • Also note that not all trees grow at the same rate! IIRC, most pines, junipers included, take longer to reach the prebonsai state than other species of trees - though they do reward you with being utterly gorgeous when you finally get there & get them styled, so if you're really buckling in for the long haul, the results will definitely be worth it.
  • Furthermore, note that anything you transplant or take from cuttings is gonna need special care & to stay in the outdoors - AFAIK none of the species you have in mind do well indoors for anything much more than a brief period to present them, and all will need the sunlight + temperature differentials of living outside long-term.
    • Short-term may require bringing them inside somewhere with *some* light but nothing direct, just so as to avoid direct sun scorching their leaves or excessive summer heat wicking all the water out of them. My maples have mostly been living on a screen porch, though they've had a couple of (unfortunately very sunny) days out on the front porch again recently - they have definitely preferred coolness and shade to getting much actual light & I may very well move them back, or even indoors for a little while just to keep them from getting roasted by late afternoon sun & heat.
  • Also, remember to fertilise things once they're established, as well as to figure out what kind of fertiliser they'll want! I've not done the maples yet as they're still recovering from the transplant (almost two weeks ago now), but I expect sometime in the next week or two will be their first proper feeding. Not done the Fukien Tea yet as I'm still not 100% clear on what mix/type of fertiliser it prefers, but that's likely to be coming up soon as well.
  • Some, or maybe even all of this stuff you already almost certainly know, but figured I'd throw it out here anyway, just in case - can't hurt to try, and if it helps keep your trees happy, then it's effort well-spent.
Like Sorce already said - welcome to crazy, and best of luck in your own adventures into the tiny forest!
Wow. Well done. Brings back flashbacks of law school outlining. Are you a law student? :)
 

CliffracerX

Yamadori
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Wow. Well done. Brings back flashbacks of law school outlining. Are you a law student? :)
Believe it or not, no! Just an obsessive organiser of information - I've been using bullet-point lists like this in design documents for programs/games/etc for years as it's the only way I ever get anything done; my brain'll just forget all the important info and get sidetracked by cat pictures or something if I don't :p
 

fossiliferous

Sapling
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26
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Tennessee
Hey, glad to see my own adventures in tiny trees have been inspirational and/or informational for other peeps! Thought I'd pop in and provide some advice I've received & info I've found in my research and/or personal experiences so far as a patron of the tiny forest. Wall of text incoming:
  • While starting from seedlings or cuttings is one of the faster ways to get your own Bonsai going, it's still a many year-long project. If my maples make it, I don't imagine they'll be ready for making into bonsai for at least 2 or 3 years, and that's considering the extent of my goals for them is "keep them alive and one day make them into brooms of some kind" - letting them grow from scratch or near-to is a long process!
  • With that in mind, don't let that discourage you from taking seedlings into your care or rooting cuttings, even the non-ideal ones - even though the Acer Rubrums are far from typical bonsai material, AFAIK your main difficulty for the first few years is just gonna be keeping them alive, happy, and healthy so they can grow out & mature a bit.
    • Many of the difficulties they bring as bonsai are specifically for styling - for instance, the Rubrums in particular are only an issue because, left to their own devices, they like putting out giant leaves the size of your face - which is great for big trees! Not so much so if your goal is a tiny tree, though.
    • Due to the long time in between now & them being ready for bonsai styling, you've got plenty of time to hone your skills & learn more so that when they are ready, you'll be all set to turn them into something beautiful.
  • While you're waiting for seedlings to grow or cuttings to take (and then to grow), you should definitely pick up some additional material in other phases of life to learn your way around styling & keep things interesting so you don't burn yourself out on bonsai just waiting for things to grow.
    • A young-ish & small-ish bonsai from a reputable dealer (or a box office, if you're willing to take a gamble on more difficult maintenance & needing to triple-check what species you're picking up so you don't end up with a tree way outside your skill range or climate) is a nice way of learning about the specifics of bonsai care, and often still have lots of potential for being polished into the exact style you want.
      • For instance, the Fukien Tea I picked up at Lowes was clearly meant to be a formal broom in the middle of the Shohnin range - which is exactly what I would've wanted!
        • (PSA: Please do not go out and buy a Fukien Tea at Lowes. They are difficult to care for and have pretty specific needs that're only really met by being outdoors in the tropics, or if you have a room that meets some very exacting requirements, which luckily the room where it lives does - decent humidity (30%+), lots of light, and temperatures consistently within the 60-80F range.)
      • But, the canopy's pretty lop-sided, and there's no Nebari to speak of, so my long-term goal with it is going to be filling in the current negative space in the canopy & growing out a Nebari. In spite of that, it's beautiful, calming, and so far has been fairly low-maintenance - I occasionally mist the leaves, water it every couple of days when the soil's feeling dry, and recently trimmed off some new growth that wasn't adding to the canopy's silhouette.
      • The best place for sourcing bonsai is a local bonsai nursery, if any are near you. Beyond that, I know mail-order ones exist, but know very little about which are considered trustworthy or not.
      • The outdoors section of your local box-offices stores will likely also carry some, but they've usually not been cared for super-well, may be in a potting nightmare situation (e.g, rootbound, entirely organic substrate, etc), and sometimes will have things like rocks glued to the top that can make watering the actual soil difficult, or leech toxins into the water that'll ultimately kill the tree. Their documentation is slim, species unspecified, and if you're not careful you could come home with something beyond your level of skill or raw capability to care for, like a Fukien Tea.
        • If you're willing to take on that risk & the likely imminent need to re-pot one as soon as the season is right, you can do so - they do likely have a better shot at surviving in the hands of a well-researched newbie than the average person who impulse-buys one - but you may very well end just end up with a forgettable planter as a consolation prize.
    • Grabbing some raw material (e.g, nursery trees/prebonsai) is also a decent plan - they're usually fairly cheap, and you can get into styling them almost immediately to learn the ins and outs of shaping trees w/out worrying you're going to destroy a many-year-old beauty. I personally opted to do this with some Portulacaria Afra, since it's comparatively quick-growing, durable as heck, and, as LittleJadeBonsai shows, can produce beautiful results in shockingly little time, especially if you shoot for the Mame or Shohnin size range, which are my jam. Plus, if you're at a shortage for material, cuttings from regular maintenance can easily be rooted & become viable material comparatively quickly.
  • Also note that not all trees grow at the same rate! IIRC, most pines, junipers included, take longer to reach the prebonsai state than other species of trees - though they do reward you with being utterly gorgeous when you finally get there & get them styled, so if you're really buckling in for the long haul, the results will definitely be worth it.
  • Furthermore, note that anything you transplant or take from cuttings is gonna need special care & to stay in the outdoors - AFAIK none of the species you have in mind do well indoors for anything much more than a brief period to present them, and all will need the sunlight + temperature differentials of living outside long-term.
    • Short-term may require bringing them inside somewhere with *some* light but nothing direct, just so as to avoid direct sun scorching their leaves or excessive summer heat wicking all the water out of them. My maples have mostly been living on a screen porch, though they've had a couple of (unfortunately very sunny) days out on the front porch again recently - they have definitely preferred coolness and shade to getting much actual light & I may very well move them back, or even indoors for a little while just to keep them from getting roasted by late afternoon sun & heat.
  • Also, remember to fertilise things once they're established, as well as to figure out what kind of fertiliser they'll want! I've not done the maples yet as they're still recovering from the transplant (almost two weeks ago now), but I expect sometime in the next week or two will be their first proper feeding. Not done the Fukien Tea yet as I'm still not 100% clear on what mix/type of fertiliser it prefers, but that's likely to be coming up soon as well.
  • Some, or maybe even all of this stuff you already almost certainly know, but figured I'd throw it out here anyway, just in case - can't hurt to try, and if it helps keep your trees happy, then it's effort well-spent.
Like Sorce already said - welcome to crazy, and best of luck in your own adventures into the tiny forest!
Hey, thank you so much for your thorough and even well-outlined response!!
As a newbie, I’m probably not as thoroughly researched as you, but for sure more well researched than the average bear, and a bit of a lay naturalist in my spare time. You’re right; seedlings are faster than seeds but won’t provide many interesting things to do anytime soon!
I don’t expect to do anything exciting with these trees for several years. With these, I was not looking for a quick dive into the hobby so much as a little guidance for where to start if any are worth saving. I figure the worst I can do is kill them, and if I don’t kill them in pots, they’re going to be killed the next time we have a bonfire or my spouse thoroughly weeds the flowerbeds. I was able to stave off their demise by doing the weeding duties myself (an easy sell - I like the outdoors and don’t mind the heat and bugs so much) and deliberately leaving some, but any I want to save long term will have to be moved at least once. I could even bury the pots in mulch to help them make it through the winter. From prior experience, I know that in a drought, almost nothing in an exposed pot in the sun will live long unless given lots and lots of water.
The parent tree for most of the maples has very small leaves for a maple. The thing is significantly taller than our house, but the biggest leaves are no bigger than my kid’s hand, counting fingers. At least I have no unrealistic ideas about creating a tiny six inch tree with those.

Anyway, a multi year project doesn’t bother me because slow burn hobbies are what I need currently. I think about the time that has passed since my almost 4-year-old was born and it seems like nothing. I contemplate... what if I had saved a few seedlings from three years ago that I felt so reluctant about destroying, and had some things to work with now? A project I can start now that I don’t have to fuss with daily until my children are not quite so young is actually great. I’m 31. Maybe I’ll have some mildly interesting trees by 40.
And yes, the outdoor aspect is a huge plus! No Fukien Tea trees for me, as nice as they are. I don’t plan to have any of my bonsai indoors unless I truly fall in love with something that can’t be outdoors here. I’m great at keeping plants alive outside but indoors is more hazardous. Two children, four animals, and an aspiring minimalist spouse who has thrown my live plants in the trash when they did not look “healthy!” (I’m sure any struggling bonsai wouldn’t be thrown out without checking with me, but still.) If it’s outside, it is safer. I’ve got all kinds of irons in the fire in our landscaping. I’ve got a native herb garden, a food garden, and decorative things going on. A little forest of small trees to look after while they grow, once moved somewhere safe, won’t be a burden.
I took a trip to Lowe’s late last week. I didn’t like the look of the few bonsai they had. They were all tropical and had the tacky glued rocks and stuff. None were appropriate for living outdoors here. Among the regular landscaping plants though, I did pick up a $9 Japanese azalea for the 5 year azalea thing, and found an small, inexpensive native-to-the-US juniper that I might return for.
Nearest options for real bonsai shopping are in Nashville which is a long drive for me but worth it next time I can go. I joined a Facebook group for bonsai in the Nashville are too.
Fertilizer is something I will need to research more and that’s one reason I am here. Many of the volunteers are thriving in whatever rotted mulch and soil they’ve found but they will need more specialized care long term once potted.
Thank you again for your helpful and organized response!
 

fossiliferous

Sapling
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Thank you so much! I really appreciate your insight! I may have som elm in the yard, or hornbeam. There are several trees out back without showy flowers or interesting fruits back there and the leaves may be right. Will check! Several have been growing along the fence for a good while and have several years’ worth of growth already that would lend some great trunk thickness if they’re the right kind. This is all great information to know, and I’ll be sure to keep an eye out for beech and persimmon. Thank you again!
You are in Tennessee, lots of interesting native trees that are good for bonsai, but none of those seem to be in your back yard.

Look for elm seedlings, if you get them, they are excellent for bonsai.

Red maple, Acer rubrum is good for medium to larger scale bonsai, think 24 inches tall and taller. OR wider. It is not a good one for "tiny trees".

American sweetgum is similar to red maple in that it makes good bonsai if you are shooting for medium to large size trees. Hard to get proportions right for a small tree.

Pin oak, is like most oaks, slow to develop. You are looking at 20 or more years before it becomes "bonsai". Most oaks make good bonsai, but because of slow development, are usually collected as 50 to 300 year old trunks, that way the first half century of growing is already out of the way. Bur oak has the most coarse bark of the northern oaks. There are a number of good oaks in Tenn, and pin oak is considered okay for bonsai.

Redbud is a tree many have tried, and many have failed with. I don't know details of why they fail. I have not attempted one. But there are very. very few photos of redbud as bonsai.

The rest on your list, Tulip poplar, and Sycamore, are extremely poor choices to use for bonsai. Huge leaves, never come into proportion.

Look for American hornbeam - Carpinus caroliniana, Loose flowered hornbeam - Ostrya virginiana, and American beech - Fagus grandifolia, as these 3 are native to Tenn and are excellent for bonsai. Also look for elm, any species of elm, native or introduced will work for bonsai. Even the large leaves of American elm will reduce nicely.

Also look for American persimmon, Diospyros virginiana - makes a stunning bonsai if you can get the repotting and root pruning down. Right now I loose a significant number of my seedlings every time I repot. I need to figure out why. Wonderful bark, dark and alligator plated, fruit is attractive. White flowers in spring. All in all a nice species for bonsai. Native to Tenn.
Another thought about persimmon that makes me want to try that (or maybe a bunch if they tend to die on you!)... I have planted a tree to celebrate the birth of each kid I have. The kids are doing fine but I lost both trees! My son’s persimmon was destroyed by a dog. I’d love to try again. Another downside of planting a tree for your kid in your yard is that if you ever move, you can’t enjoy the tree anymore. Bonsai, however, you can take with you!
On second thought, though, if I want a legacy bonsai for each kid, maybe for that purpose I should pick something nearly invincible so I don’t run the risk of having to start over and over again. 😅
The idea is to have a tree approximately as old as the kid. Persimmons could perhaps be a separate project!
 

Leo in N E Illinois

The Professor
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Naming a tree, or plant, in my case a couple orchids, naming it after someone always presents the issue of what to do if it dies on you. I named 3 orchids after 3 nieces, they are all dead now. Bummer. Hopefully they won't remember and ask for a division any time soon. Two I divided, and know who has back up divisions. But I hate to go to them, because I charged a lot of money for those divisions.

Oh well.
 

Mikecheck123

Omono
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Naming a tree, or plant, in my case a couple orchids, naming it after someone always presents the issue of what to do if it dies on you. I named 3 orchids after 3 nieces, they are all dead now. Bummer. Hopefully they won't remember and ask for a division any time soon. Two I divided, and know who has back up divisions. But I hate to go to them, because I charged a lot of money for those divisions.

Oh well.
Sentimental seedlings are always tough, but your advice about American elms is spot on. I currently have a 7-foot American elm that grew from a seed I collected from my grandfather's farmstead in Kansas last summer. The tree is roughly 415 days old and already 7 feet tall. And the growth is accelerating as I continue to up-pot it now and again. Pretty incredible plants.

I named it after him. I've also got several cuttings going (also growing fast) as insurance against some kind of calamity.
 

fossiliferous

Sapling
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Sentimental seedlings are always tough, but your advice about American elms is spot on. I currently have a 7-foot American elm that grew from a seed I collected from my grandfather's farmstead in Kansas last summer. The tree is roughly 415 days old and already 7 feet tall. And the growth is accelerating as I continue to up-pot it now and again. Pretty incredible plants.

I named it after him. I've also got several cuttings going (also growing fast) as insurance against some kind of calamity.
That sounds like an awesome elm. I’m happy for you that it’s doing well!
New plan for the trees for my kids. Several trees apiece, all about the same age as the kid, and whichever one lives until they’re 18 (and if multiple survive, the healthiest one) then that one will officially be “their” tree. There’s still no guarantee but that seems like a better plan than pinning all of my hopes on one!
 
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