Which type of scissors do you use?

[NickUK]

Hey everyone!

I’m about 2 months into my Bonsai journey and loving it so far. A big part of the enjoyment is looking at (and buying) the right tools.

I’ve just ordered some Kaneshin tools which should arrive in a week or so - I figured I’d spend a little more on decent quality which will hopefully bring me some more enjoyment when using them!

I didn’t get the whole set, only the essentials (scissors, branch cutter, wire cutter, tweezers).

I have 5 small to medium trees, so that should cover everything for the short term.

However, my question to you (and I know it’s personal), is what type of scissors do you use?

The 3 “main” ones I see are the “general” type, which I have the large butterfly handles and shorter tip (commonly referred to as root pruning shears).

The long handle equivalent of the same thing (but generally used for actual pruning) - Bjorn Bjorholm seems to use those a lot in his videos.

Lastly, the “trimming” shears, which are the thinner, more dainty type (often used by Jason of Eastern Leaf).

I went for the trimming shears (which I think I’ll get the lost use out of) and I already have the “Root” shears, which are fine for now.

Did I miss a trick by not getting the large shears?

Anyway, thanks for reading and look forward to contributing where I can!

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

My primary tools:

 

[TomB]

deleted - misread post

 

[M. Frary]

Little sharp ones.

 

[Clicio]

Basically one very sharp for leaves, one very strong for roots and one for day to day chores, a pruner. All Kaneshin.

Scissors


Generic pruner (sold by Kaneshin but not made by them)


The whole set.


One of the tools I use most is the wire cutter. I have purchased the cheaper one, carbon steel (not stainless), and it misaligned when trying to cut a high gauge copper wire. So, good quality of the steel matters.

 

[sorce]

Love Kaneshin and Proper good tools but .....

The only thing made for bonsai that is essential is a concave cutter.

Everything else has a more useful Nonsai version that are also less expensive.

A good pair of Cuticle Cutters is essential.



Welcome to Crazy, truth.

Sorce

 

[Clicio]

A good pair of Cuticle Cutters is essential.

Welcome to Crazy, truth.
Sorce

That's so true!!!
I have seen many bonsai enthusiasts using them on small shohin and mame plants, and they work good!

 

[River's Edge]

is what type of scissors do you use?

I have an assortment of scissors from a variety of manufacturers, mostly Kaneshein, stainless and blue steel.
One of the types I use very often for smaller trees and more refined thinning and ramification cuts are the ARS manufactured scissors designed for use in the grape vineyards. I find both styles useful, the flat blades and the bent blades. The bent blades are very useful for getting the roots clean and flat on the bottom of the rootball when repotting!
They are available through many suppliers. I get mine from Jonas Dupuich.

 

[BobbyLane]

both work as good as the other believe it or not.

 

[sorce]

Leverage is everything.

There is something to be said about how the left ones can be better in many circumstances.

I find myself trying to jam the right ones in to get a good bite. Then you got 10cm of blade running through the tree on the opposite end.

Sorce

 

[sorce]

Of course, keeping anything sharp is most important.

Sorce

 

[River's Edge]

both work as good as the other believe it or not.

View attachment 317001

The pair on the right would not work for the majority of my Bonsai work. the pair on the left is designed to reach in without damaging foliage. I prefer scissors designed for the job at hand and adapted for different sized trees. If I need to work within a larger canopy, more refined area, I prefer longer handle rather than putting my fist in with bulky handles and broad blades!
Like the pair pictured below, the smaller pair works well on smaller pads and the long handled pair better in congested larger pads.

 

[sorce]

Makes sense that it could take one many years to even need one over the other.

Sorce

 

[River's Edge]

that is essential is a concave cutter.

Try a ball cutter instead, you will be surprised at the difference! Concave often crushes the cambium more, causing separation at the site for initial healing. Of course you can always clean the edge with a sharp blade to counteract this effect. However this makes a larger scar.
Concave cutters were all the rage ten years ago, mine rarely get any use unless for some situations where they can access a cut more easily. Then I leave a bit more of a collar to clean with a sharp edge!
Particularly valuable is the right size ball cutter for deciduous branch removal to get the basic form from the get go! Thicker bark, cambium more important to recess closer to the edge for smoother transition of the callus.
As you know the manner in which the tool is used also makes a difference with slower more deliberate two stage pressure and repositioning during the cut making a positive change in result.
Crazy I know!

 

[NickUK]

Basically one very sharp for leaves, one very strong for roots and one for day to day chores, a pruner. All Kaneshin.

Scissors
View attachment 316986

Generic pruner (sold by Kaneshin but not made by them)
View attachment 316990

The whole set.
View attachment 316989

One of the tools I use most is the wire cutter. I have purchased the cheaper one, carbon steel (not stainless), and it misaligned when trying to cut a high gauge copper wire. So, good quality of the steel matters.

How often do you use the scissors in the top case, the long handled large scissors (3rd tool from the right of the top case).

 

[penumbra]

Try a ball cutter instead,

What are you calling a ball cutter? This term is new to me. I use concave cutters all the time, large and small, long and short.

 

[R0b]

What are you calling a ball cutter? This term is new to me. I use concave cutters all the time, large and small, long and short.

Knob cutter?

 

[BobbyLane]

The pair on the right would not work for the majority of my Bonsai work. the pair on the left is designed to reach in without damaging foliage. I prefer scissors designed for the job at hand and adapted for different sized trees. If I need to work within a larger canopy, more refined area, I prefer longer handle rather than putting my fist in with bulky handles and broad blades!
Like the pair pictured below, the smaller pair works well on smaller pads and the long handled pair better in congested larger pads.View attachment 317021

if i misplace the silver ones, often the stand in ones will do a similar job at pruning thinner deciduous branching. sharp garden secateurs are great too and another of my go to tools.


has anyone ever watched Ryan pruning on the live streams, often he'll just use the same electrical wire cutters to clip a wired branch as he would when pruning an unwired branch. he rarely switches to a specific pair of bonsai pruning scissors. not saying he doesnt use them though, but non specific tools are just as effective on many occasions.

i tried this for myself.
i bought a pair of £5 electrical wire cutters on ebay and used them to prune wired branches along with finer wireless twigs and they worked fine. clean smooth cuts.

i wondered to myself why Ryan wasnt switching back to the bonsai scissors, its because the wire cutters were doing as good a job.
then i saw Peter warren using a small electrical wire cutter to prune a maple on one of the mirai streams and i went n bought one. cheap as peanuts.

 

[penumbra]

Knob cutter?

Don't know, waiting to hear. I use knob cutters too but interchangeably with concave cutters. Two different animals as far as I am concerned.

 

[Clicio]

How often do you use the scissors in the top case, the long handled large scissors (3rd tool from the right of the top case).

That's a small root cutter, and I use it a lot by the end of winter/beginning of spring to repot all shohin.