Why does general purpose potting soil cause root rot?

_#1_

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Or you could even make the extraordinary adjustment of only watering the plants when they need it. This is very difficult and stupid people can't make this wild and crazy move on their own. Trust me, it's true.
Or you could even make the extraordinary move and start off right and use well draining barren inorganic to begin with. Water 10X a day, who cares! Or be a extraordinary genius and add more variables for potential problems like adding dirt.

All the bonsai pros use dirt of course. Just look at their tress. So beautiful and healthy.
 

leatherback

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watering, timings, weather, humidity in the air, whether it rained, how hard did it rain, did I eat a full breakfast, did I blow my nose, 3 or 4 times today, etc... the better!
not to forget.. watering assistence in case of holidays, illnes, ...

"Just soak everything once a day". If it is so warm you would rather be at the pool, soak twice a day.
 

ConorDash

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not to forget.. watering assistence in case of holidays, illnes, ...

"Just soak everything once a day". If it is so warm you would rather be at the pool, soak twice a day.

This is also true. This helps a lot.

Im accused of only following other peoples advice and not thinking for myself much, being aware of that, there must be a reason akadama is so famous in the bonsai world. Pumice, Lava, perlite, whatever... there must be a reason these things are popular. Aside from trusting those, as long as you can accustom your soil mix to your situation, how often does it rain in your climate, wind, sun etc, and how often you are able to water yourself, does your schedule allow.. once you hit the right mix, then im set for life... still searching though.
 

Kadebe

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This is also true. This helps a lot.

...Im accused of only following other peoples advice and not thinking for myself much, being aware of that, there must be a reason akadama is so famous in the bonsai world. ....
This video can help you :cool:
 

ConorDash

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This video can help you :cool:

Been there, done that.. lol watched it. I know the science behind the use of the substrate, was just making point about even if no one knew anything about it, the fact so many professionals use it, should be enough. After that, you should look in to and know about it for your own development. Generally speaking.
 

sorce

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Resorce.

Potting soil is used for plants that are always transpiring, always using moisture.
In winter, they get thrown out or brought in.

The difference is the Dormancy, where no water is being utilized so none needs to be added, and or things are frozen.

The dormancy is the difference, nothing else is subject to it.

Sorce
 

_#1_

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Resorce.

Potting soil is used for plants that are always transpiring, always using moisture.
In winter, they get thrown out or brought in.

The difference is the Dormancy, where no water is being utilized so none needs to be added, and or things are frozen.

The dormancy is the difference, nothing else is subject to it.

Sorce
Question is, would you put dirt in you bonsai pot?
 

Bonsai Nut

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It's not just about water - it's about oxygen. When you first buy potting soil it is usually nice and fluffy and filled with void space. Over time... and not over a very long time... it compacts. This is exacerbated by our trees growing roots, creating pressure against the soil in the pot. So yes, it's important to know how and when to water, but it is also important to use a mix that has plenty of void space and doesn't break down easily. This doesn't have to be 100% inorganic, as long as you use organic material (like pine bark) that doesn't clog your soil quickly.

So it isn't soil that causes root rot, per se. It's the lack of oxygen that causes roots to die and rot. Often when you repot a tree that is experiencing root rot the roots will be black and smell strongly of hydrogen sulfide (sewer smell). That is because there is no oxygen in the soil, and one of the few things that can live in oxygen-free environments is anaerobic bacteria that reduce sulfates to hydrogen sulfide - freeing up oxygen for their metabolic processes.
 
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Bon Sai

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Or you could even make the extraordinary adjustment of only watering the plants when they need it. This is very difficult and stupid people can't make this wild and crazy move on their own. Trust me, it's true.

There is a problem with that. Once the soil gets dry, it's difficult to wetten again and you (or at least I) have to resort to immersion in a bucket of water. And that is an annoying work if you have a lot of trees, so I make sure it never gets totally dry.

But as I said, trees in the original nursery soil I can water as much as I want and they keep healthy.
 

Forsoothe!

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There is a problem with that. Once the soil gets dry, it's difficult to wetten again and you (or at least I) have to resort to immersion in a bucket of water. And that is an annoying work if you have a lot of trees, so I make sure it never gets totally dry.

But as I said, trees in the original nursery soil I can water as much as I want and they keep healthy.
What makes you think that the secret to nicely organic soil is a secret? I don't use any peat because it is as you describe. Almost no other soil component (that I can think of) is as hydrophobic as peat in almost any form.
 

Forsoothe!

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Homemade compost is probably the best, but I use ordinary top soil from a big box with twice the volume of Pine Bark Soil Conditioner and a long list of amendments. The texture or tilth works for me in my environment where rain is neither to much nor too little season-to-season. It wets-out easily and dampness is evenly distributed. Perched water is only a problem in media that is watered too much or too often. That can be a function of automatic watering systems in which the size of pots affect the volume of water accumulated verses used, as in pots too big for a plant's use and/or the interval between waterings being too short, - for that size pot & tree combination. I water by hand with a hose looking at each tree and happily doing my thing, individually. Small pots in the shade use water greatly different than small pots in the sun, etc., etc. People who live in a rain belt like down south where it can rain every day for weeks, or on the Great Plains where drought and constant wind makes people adjust to that situation eventually find a mix that suits themselves.

I don't like rocks in my pots because they take up space and provide nothing for the trees to eat. It may be that the Japanese evolved to rocks because of their environment, -mountainous islands that are always close enough to winds that sweep-up moisture over the seas and dump rain as they rise up the mountainsides, just like the northern coast of California and Oregon and Washington and BC where the Japanese who introduced bonsai to America lived. That, and coniferous trees dominating collections, not to speak of yamadori. Trees growing on mountainsides are already in scree, so that's what they continued to use?

I stopped recommending my mix to others because there is no one media suitable for all, just like every place on Earth is slightly different than everywhere else. I guess that's why everybody seems to have a different formula, -and some are complaining it doesn't work for them. Whatever "it" is.
 

NewtotheArt

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Nurseries use what they use not because it's a great growing medium, but because it straddles the financial/horticultural requirement line. It is not meant as a permanent solution. Nursery trees in containers are meant to be bought and planted in the ground. The soil used is lightweight and cheap--which are the primary reasons nurseries use it. It doesn't last and isn't meant to. It breaks down and clogs.

Bonsai soil is more durable with components that break down more slowly (if at all) and provide better gas and moisture exchange.

Don't make the mistake of using potting soil "because nurseries use it. They're not using it because its great stuff. They're using it because it doesn't cost much and is adequate for a limited period.
Very well said! The correct answer!
 

Mitty

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I have been looking after my Bonsai trees since 1975. During that time I have learned and picked-up a great deal of information/ science.
I know that the roots do not grow into the soil, they grow through. cracks and gaps in the substrate. They must have Oxygen as you water them, ( air is drawn in due to vacuums created by watering ) If we create a form of mud , then most Bonsai will die. I always put a layer of Kyodama/or flint chipping at the bottom of all pots to insure good drainage. I use Perlite as part of my soil mix. with crushed lava, Akadama and I use a layer of aquarium gravel to cover the top of pots to stop weeds. I have seen awful "soils " from even the best Bonsai suppliers. I give new trees a settling in period, then I repot. I think, that not enough emphasis is put on roots and the necessary Oxygen they need. The only other thing I add to my soil mix is well-composted leaves and bark but I try not to wash- out all root balls with water and I make a point of realising how much bacteria will be carried over to the new pots. I use mainly Bio-Gold and some Blackjack, with Bonsai Focus to fertilise the trees. Every so often I give them all a mixed micro- mineral douse. And I use a chemical twice a year to stop Vine weevil damage. I have about 100 trees , most Shohin or Mame. In early spring I do any serious chopping back to restyle my trees. Recently I have tried to create a "rose-bowl effect with no branches turning inwards "
This is just an idea to create a different look.
 
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