Why i like Crab!

[namnhi]

Let me start and you can add yours.
1. Easy to propagate - root cutting, airlayering.
2. Grow fairly fast and not finicking when trim
3. Beautiful flowers and fruits

I get rewarded with flowers when trimmed.

 

[Flowerhouse]

I only have crabapples in the landscape, but I can still add a #4.
4. Fruit bark. I love the bark!!

 

[Shogun610]

Oh I have crabs, second one is from a air layer , last one was dug up

 

[namnhi]

Oh I have crabs, second one is from a air layer , last one was dug up

Very nice. Forgot to mention that mine was an airlayer.

 

[GreatLakesBrad]

When do y’all find the best time to prune is, with backbudding as a desired result?

 

[sorce]

When do y’all find the best time to prune is, with backbudding as a desired result

I haven't had mine long and it seems since, I've always had to prune it for "wrong" reasons at "wrong" times....to rid it of scale, to remove excess leaves for vacation watering, etc...

So it never really been at "peak health" but it always responds well.

Still, the "response", and what I consider completely superior to "backbudding", which is, "already having buds to branch", seems to be apparent on crabs too.

Health for backbudding, pruning to activate them.

Sorce

 

[Shogun610]

@Brad in GR There’s no hard and fast rule for when to prune , but I’ve had issues with my one crab apple all growing season with rust, the others are fine though. So I had to cut leaves off at the tip to keep the buds. I’ve noticed when I did hard prune in spring just before buds swelled, it activated latent buds further back and down the trunk line what are just beginning to harden and set buds now. They don’t double flush so once they harden off , that’s all you get besides growing at the tips.

 

[namnhi]

For me, if I don't prune I will have many long runners on the upper part of the tree and the weak lower branches will be abandoned.... so I have to prune to activate the buds on the lower branches. Good thing is it doesn't show any stress for that. I pruned my about a week or so ago...that is the last prune for this year.

 

[Shogun610]

@Brad in GR to clarify , I only hard pruned what needed , everything else was left the same , and using technique for ramification. So again at the beginning of a branch that has that purple softer wood not fully barked, I’m going to cut further back close to the first or second set of leaves , to build more ramification, on the top or bottom , you’d let go for sacrificing. The only one I’ll be building ramification for is the one actually in a pot, the others such as the air lair or dug up one , have years to go, maybe less for the air layer because the structure is there , besides the wounds to hollow or close.

 

[hinmo24t]

Oh I have crabs, second one is from a air layer , last one was dug up

same w my buddy eric, sh*t happens

nice trees! i ate a crabapple from buddys tree the other day and it was over 2"
i think he has a regular appl tree. tasted like from the market, 3"

 

[GreatLakesBrad]

@Brad in GR There’s no hard and fast rule for when to prune , but I’ve had issues with my one crab apple all growing season with rust, the others are fine though. So I had to cut leaves off at the tip to keep the buds. I’ve noticed when I did hard prune in spring just before buds swelled, it activated latent buds further back and down the trunk line what are just beginning to harden and set buds now. They don’t double flush so once they harden off , that’s all you get besides growing at the tips.

Yes, finding the same. Spring seems to still be best once healthy. I didn’t realize I’d only get one flush mostly, until last season.

 

[Shogun610]

Yes, finding the same. Spring seems to still be best once healthy. I didn’t realize I’d only get one flush mostly, until last season.

One other suggestion but up to you, that smaller side shoot , you could approach or thread graft it into the trunk since there is a wide difference between foliage and trunk.

 

[LanceMac10]

Is it wrong to say this crab maybe shouldn't see any shears for a couple seasons?

After the flowers fade is a good time to deadhead them and cut back as far as you dare....

 

[just.wing.it]

I really like them too....
But I also like junipers....
And I don't like Apple-Cedar Rust....booooooo.

 

[hinmo24t]

I really like them too....
But I also like junipers....
And I don't like Apple-Cedar Rust....booooooo.

only from ERC though, no?

 

[Shogun610]

I really like them too....
But I also like junipers....
And I don't like Apple-Cedar Rust....booooooo.

Yeah it’s a continuous battle my dude

 

[just.wing.it]

only from ERC though, no?

I thought most junipers are susceptible....but maybe a couple aren't ...?

 

[hinmo24t]

Yeah it’s a continuous battle my dude

i have had juniper and apple on my bench for a year together and both are loving life



i did get rid of ERC because of that nonsymbiotic relationship

 

[Shogun610]

i have had juniper and apple on my bench for a year together and both are loving life



i did get rid of ERC because of that nonsymbiotic relationship

Oh I gave up on juniper … Just give me all the crab apples, native deciduous, pines , and spruce/firs and I’m good.

 

[hinmo24t]

Oh I gave up on juniper … Just give me all the crab apples, native deciduous, pines , and spruce/firs and I’m good.

sounds like me about pines lol

i can handle junipers and spruce more than pines when it comes to 'plants like that'