Wild Plum

misfit11

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I guess I never started a thread on this tree. I originally collected it here in Sonoma County back in 2007 or so. After getting it established in a grow box I chopped it down to where you see the curve and the carving. I had intended to have it heal over as I grew out the new leader but as it grew I soon realized that the new section was almost as thick as the base and the scar hadn't even begun roll over the chop. Right around that time I was in a workshop with Kathy Shaner and she was talking about these plums and mentioned that chop scars will virtually never heal over and the tree will just sit there and "laugh at you". With that I decided that I had been waiting in vain and decided to do another chop and begin building the apex. It's been in this pot for a number of years now. I'm torn on whether to keep the branches on the right. What do you all think?
 

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Forsoothe!

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Whatsa matta you head? A bird in the hand is betta than some shit. Just work on refining the top & port branch into layers and keep the wound painted in ~15 to 20% household bleach in water every 4 to 6 weeks to prevent further deterioration. You can carefully scratch out some of the deadwood on a regular basis just before you bleach it again, and eventually you'll down to ~good~ wood. The bleach will whiten the wood and prevent black mold from becoming established.

Either that or sell me the tree.
 

Shibui

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Right branch gives balance and stability to the tree. Many people like that sense of balance.
Removing that branch will give dynamic tension and a completely different feel to the whole tree. I think the powerful uro and shari in that area attract enough attention without needing foliage there as well.

Either way you will have a nice bonsai plum.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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Keep the branch, without that branch the uro and shari will overpower the tree. And the 'C' or 'S' depending on where you stop the line with your eye will become obvious. The 'C' is often also call pigeon breast. Depending on which side of the 'C' you look at.

Rather than bleach, I would just use lime sulfur. It has longer acting anti-rot properties than beach. If you don't like how bright it makes the wood, add a little india ink (essentially powdered carbon) to the lime sulfur. Or if you have any of the mineral tints used to tint paint, such as burnt umber, raw sienna, red ochre, yellow ochre, if you have any of those they can be used to tint your lime sulfur.
 

misfit11

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Keep the branch, without that branch the uro and shari will overpower the tree. And the 'C' or 'S' depending on where you stop the line with your eye will become obvious. The 'C' is often also call pigeon breast. Depending on which side of the 'C' you look at.

Rather than bleach, I would just use lime sulfur. It has longer acting anti-rot properties than beach. If you don't like how bright it makes the wood, add a little india ink (essentially powdered carbon) to the lime sulfur. Or if you have any of the mineral tints used to tint paint, such as burnt umber, raw sienna, red ochre, yellow ochre, if you have any of those they can be used to tint your lime sulfur.
Thanks Leo. I've come to realize that this tree does need that branch.
I haven't noticed any rot occurring since I did the carving years ago. The wood is very hard. If it does begin to rot I'll probably use lime sulfur with India ink. I've used it with success in the past.
 

misfit11

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Sweet little tree. Does it flower for you?
It does, but very sparsely. That's something that I'd like to improve on with this tree. If you've got any advice in that area I'd really appreciate it.
 

misfit11

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What species is this? P. Americana?
No idea what the species is. They grow all over the place in Sonoma County. There's a guy in the club that calls them "The Plums that Grow in the Creeks" 🙂. He's got a bunch of them including a forest that is absolutely terrific.
Looking on Google I found Prunus subcordata, (Klamath Plum, Pacific Plum, Sierra Plum). Looks about right so let's go with that.
 

wireme

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It does, but very sparsely. That's something that I'd like to improve on with this tree. If you've got any advice in that area I'd really appreciate it.

For advice in that area I’ve got nuthin. I’d have a hard time even trying to make something up😀. There are other owners of flowering Prunus around this place though...
 

PaulH

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When I was growing up in Healdsburg these were indeed growing in all the creeks. I think they are from rootstock gone wild from all the prune orchard in the area that are now replaced by grapes. The old prune orchardists called them Mirabelle plums.
 

Mike Hennigan

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It does, but very sparsely. That's something that I'd like to improve on with this tree. If you've got any advice in that area I'd really appreciate it.
I’ve got no idea really, but I know that with some other rose family trees, hawthorn especially, letting the tree get pretty rootbound in the container can help them to flower. Maybe give that a try? See how long you can go between repots? Shooting in the dark here a bit.
 

misfit11

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When I was growing up in Healdsburg these were indeed growing in all the creeks. I think they are from rootstock gone wild from all the prune orchard in the area that are now replaced by grapes. The old prune orchardists called them Mirabelle plums.
Thanks for the info, Paul. Good stuff!
 

misfit11

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I’ve got no idea really, but I know that with some other rose family trees, hawthorn especially, letting the tree get pretty rootbound in the container can help them to flower. Maybe give that a try? See how long you can go between repots? Shooting in the dark here a bit.
Thanks. I had the same idea. I haven’t reported in quite a few years in the hopes that would induce flowering. I think to some extent it does but not consistently. Some years I get more flowers than others.
 
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