Wild trees for bonsai 2019 (UK)

peterbone

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Some bonsai enthusiasts don't like winter because they have nothing to do. I can't wait for winter because it's the best time to hunt for wild trees. Here are some trees I've found and will be working on in the ground or collecting this year.

jD5L2mk.jpg

This is a European Hornbeam that I found at the beginning of January this year. It has amazing taper and some interesting hollow features. I assume that someone cut it back years ago as this kind of thing doesn't normally happen on its own. My plan is to dig a trench around it in the spring to encourage feeder roots closer to the trunk and then collect it in the autumn or spring 2020. I'll chop it when I collect it. It wouldn't help to chop it sooner because it would just be weakened and would mean that I'd have to wait a lot longer before collecting it (especially because it's growing in a woodland and would be shaded out).

X55Ua6i.jpg

Here's a Hawthorn I found the same day. It has a great root base and movement.

I've had no luck collecting Hawthorn in the past. I think this is because my local soil is heavy clay. This means that there are almost never any feeder roots close enough to the trunk. Some trees such as English Elm or Field Maple will do fine with almost no feeder roots, but not Hawthorn. So now my plan is to trench them and leave them at least a year before collecting. I don't chop them until collection to prevent weakening them.

qHOCPcx.jpg

A twin trunk Hawthorn with a great base and taper. I'll trench this one in the spring as well.

Most of these trees don't have low branches, but I'm not too worried about that. If the roots are strong and the tree has plenty of stored energy then it should easily be able to push out new shoots.

YQSpMWq.jpg

This is my best find ever from a walk I took over Christmas. An amazing field maple. Field Maple are normally fine without any preparation in the ground, but this one deserves some patience, so I'll be cautious and trench it before collecting next year.

wipf9J5.jpg

An Ash with some interesting movement and taper. Ash aren't that common for bonsai as they have large compound leaves, but this one is fairly large so I think it could work. Also I don't have one yet. I don't know how easy they are to collect so I'll be cautious and trench it first.

T1dbhrU.jpg

An interesting Beech that looks to have been cut back years ago. Beech are almost as difficult as Hawthorn to collect, so I'll definitely trench this one.

My strategy for tree hunting is basically to look at the edges of woodland. I'm lucky to live in an area with a lot of unspoilt deciduous woodland. There are no mountains around here with weathered trees at high altitude, but good trees can be found where deer have been grazing or next to old footpaths that have been cut back at some point. Having said that, I almost never find anything. The trees you see here are the result of 2 years of searching at the weekend and holidays. 90% of the time I'll find nothing, but it's always enjoyable and good exercise.

dEkWNgl.jpg

A Hawthorn. I already trenched this one last Autumn. It's growing in a boggy area that gets waterlogged in winter, so I think it will have better feeder roots than most other trees around here. I intend to collect it this spring.

GIsDVk7.jpg

A Hornbeam with good taper and movement. This one has also been trenched already. I plan to collect it next Autumn. Autumn is often the best time to collect wild trees, as long as you have somewhere to keep them away from frosts over winter. I plan to invest in a heat bed to help my collected trees as well.

UQGq62I.jpg

This is an English Oak with interesting movement and mature bark. I visualise it as a literati style. I've already trenched this one and plan to collect it in Autumn. I'll check all my trenched trees over summer to see how they're doing. Any sign of weakness and I'll leave them longer in the ground.

90bPZlH.jpg

I trenched this Field Maple last spring and will collect it this spring. It's quite large and has an amazing root base. I plan to chop with a V cut and develop it into a broom style.

77Fp6Cf.jpg

A also trenched this large Hornbeam last spring. It was doing fine when I checked it over summer, so it should have some good feeder roots by now. I think this could be a very powerful tree but will take years to develop a new crown. I'll remove the moss after I've collected it - I don't think it's doing it much harm at the moment.

NcgDzI3.jpg

Finally, this is the first tree that I've collected this year. It's a European Spindle. In my experience these trees always have fine feeder roots no matter what soil they're growing in so I risked collecting it early without preparing it in the ground. Most spindle grow with very untapered trunks and no low branches, so it's unusual to find one like this.

That's a washing up bowl I'm growing it in (with holes drilled in the bottom). I'm using large particle cat litter (sanicat pink from Pets at Home) mixed with some perlite and composted bark. All the components are sieved to remove fines. This year I'll also be trying out large grain Pumice.
 

BobbyLane

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Good stuff Peter, these all look worth some effort, i'm a little jealous!

@ConorDash since we've been chatting about finding a spot in your neck of the woods for collecting wild trees, here is a little more insight for you....

@Cattwooduk you also asked about collecting and what to look for. Peter has a trained eye
 

rockm

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here in the Eastern U.S. states, experienced bonsaiists collect trees such as hornbeam, maple and other species all in one sitting. I have found that "trenching" forest species such as Carolina Hornbeam, black cherry, and a few others, for gradual collection over a period of years, leads to death in the field. Have you tried the "all at once" collection for any of these species, particularly the hornbeam?
 

peterbone

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here in the Eastern U.S. states, experienced bonsaiists collect trees such as hornbeam, maple and other species all in one sitting. I have found that "trenching" forest species such as Carolina Hornbeam, black cherry, and a few others, for gradual collection over a period of years, leads to death in the field. Have you tried the "all at once" collection for any of these species, particularly the hornbeam?
Yes, I think we’ve discussed before about Hawthorn being somehow easier to collect in the US. Who knows why. Hornbeam are one of the easier ones to collect. I have collected them in one go in the past but have also had a few fail this way. As I said in my post, my local soil is very heavy clay and it’s very unlikely that any of these trees will have feeder roots close to the trunk.
 

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Some bonsai enthusiasts don't like winter because they have nothing to do. I can't wait for winter because it's the best time to hunt for wild trees. Here are some trees I've found and will be working on in the ground or collecting this year.

jD5L2mk.jpg

This is a European Hornbeam that I found at the beginning of January this year. It has amazing taper and some interesting hollow features. I assume that someone cut it back years ago as this kind of thing doesn't normally happen on its own. My plan is to dig a trench around it in the spring to encourage feeder roots closer to the trunk and then collect it in the autumn or spring 2020. I'll chop it when I collect it. It wouldn't help to chop it sooner because it would just be weakened and would mean that I'd have to wait a lot longer before collecting it (especially because it's growing in a woodland and would be shaded out).

X55Ua6i.jpg

Here's a Hawthorn I found the same day. It has a great root base and movement.

I've had no luck collecting Hawthorn in the past. I think this is because my local soil is heavy clay. This means that there are almost never any feeder roots close enough to the trunk. Some trees such as English Elm or Field Maple will do fine with almost no feeder roots, but not Hawthorn. So now my plan is to trench them and leave them at least a year before collecting. I don't chop them until collection to prevent weakening them.

qHOCPcx.jpg

A twin trunk Hawthorn with a great base and taper. I'll trench this one in the spring as well.

Most of these trees don't have low branches, but I'm not too worried about that. If the roots are strong and the tree has plenty of stored energy then it should easily be able to push out new shoots.

YQSpMWq.jpg

This is my best find ever from a walk I took over Christmas. An amazing field maple. Field Maple are normally fine without any preparation in the ground, but this one deserves some patience, so I'll be cautious and trench it before collecting next year.

wipf9J5.jpg

An Ash with some interesting movement and taper. Ash aren't that common for bonsai as they have large compound leaves, but this one is fairly large so I think it could work. Also I don't have one yet. I don't know how easy they are to collect so I'll be cautious and trench it first.

T1dbhrU.jpg

An interesting Beech that looks to have been cut back years ago. Beech are almost as difficult as Hawthorn to collect, so I'll definitely trench this one.

My strategy for tree hunting is basically to look at the edges of woodland. I'm lucky to live in an area with a lot of unspoilt deciduous woodland. There are no mountains around here with weathered trees at high altitude, but good trees can be found where deer have been grazing or next to old footpaths that have been cut back at some point. Having said that, I almost never find anything. The trees you see here are the result of 2 years of searching at the weekend and holidays. 90% of the time I'll find nothing, but it's always enjoyable and good exercise.

dEkWNgl.jpg

A Hawthorn. I already trenched this one last Autumn. It's growing in a boggy area that gets waterlogged in winter, so I think it will have better feeder roots than most other trees around here. I intend to collect it this spring.

GIsDVk7.jpg

A Hornbeam with good taper and movement. This one has also been trenched already. I plan to collect it next Autumn. Autumn is often the best time to collect wild trees, as long as you have somewhere to keep them away from frosts over winter. I plan to invest in a heat bed to help my collected trees as well.

UQGq62I.jpg

This is an English Oak with interesting movement and mature bark. I visualise it as a literati style. I've already trenched this one and plan to collect it in Autumn. I'll check all my trenched trees over summer to see how they're doing. Any sign of weakness and I'll leave them longer in the ground.

90bPZlH.jpg

I trenched this Field Maple last spring and will collect it this spring. It's quite large and has an amazing root base. I plan to chop with a V cut and develop it into a broom style.

77Fp6Cf.jpg

A also trenched this large Hornbeam last spring. It was doing fine when I checked it over summer, so it should have some good feeder roots by now. I think this could be a very powerful tree but will take years to develop a new crown. I'll remove the moss after I've collected it - I don't think it's doing it much harm at the moment.

NcgDzI3.jpg

Finally, this is the first tree that I've collected this year. It's a European Spindle. In my experience these trees always have fine feeder roots no matter what soil they're growing in so I risked collecting it early without preparing it in the ground. Most spindle grow with very untapered trunks and no low branches, so it's unusual to find one like this.

That's a washing up bowl I'm growing it in (with holes drilled in the bottom). I'm using large particle cat litter (sanicat pink from Pets at Home) mixed with some perlite and composted bark. All the components are sieved to remove fines. This year I'll also be trying out large grain Pumice.
I appreciate your patient approach to collecting. There is some nice material pictured above.
Your comment about the heavy clay content of the local soil suggests to me a modified trenching method i have used. Instead of just the usual perimeter trench which promotes finer roots on those cutback and looser soil for feeder roots to extend out into, I also excavate a few pie shaped segments ( say three) from the perimeter to the base. Slowly remove native soil ( disturbing as few roots as possible and replace with looser particle mix to encourage feeder roots in closer to the trunk as well. I pick sections that do not have obvious large surface roots to contend with. Certainly a slower process and more work. I have used this approach with success on trees that i thought were just too good to risk losing.
Perhaps you are already aware of this technique and using it as well.
 

Mike Hennigan

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Yes, I think we’ve discussed before about Hawthorn being somehow easier to collect in the US. Who knows why. Hornbeam are one of the easier ones to collect. I have collected them in one go in the past but have also had a few fail this way. As I said in my post, my local soil is very heavy clay and it’s very unlikely that any of these trees will have feeder roots close to the trunk.

Hawthorn is not easier to collect in the US, at least not where I am in NY. All the hawthorns I’ve collected (c. Monogyna) have come out of very heavy clay soil and had no feeder roots. The tap roots were so thick it was as if the trunk just continued into the earth. I flat cut the tap root. The thing that has made hawthorn collecting easy for me is using the “sweating” technique. Place the newly collected tree an pot completely inside a black garbage back. Then place it in full sun. The heat and humidity will force abundant root growth. I also have potted them into a mix that is 90% perlite after collection to keep maximum aeration for new roots. I imagine pumice would do the same. Sweating is easy to do, much easier than trenching. Give it a shot.
 

Joe Dupre'

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Peter, like you, I do a lot of scouting in fall and winter. Best time for me. No mosquitoes, any trees with berries can be spotted easily and there's not as much greenery to slog through. I have averaged about 50 hours a year in the woods for the last 4 years I've been back in the hobby. You have found some nice candidates. I have about the same success in finding good trees. Nature just doesn't "do" bonsai-ready trees very often.
 

Mike Hennigan

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Hawthorn is not easier to collect in the US, at least not where I am in NY. All the hawthorns I’ve collected (c. Monogyna) have come out of very heavy clay soil and had no feeder roots. The tap roots were so thick it was as if the trunk just continued into the earth. I flat cut the tap root. The thing that has made hawthorn collecting easy for me is using the “sweating” technique. Place the newly collected tree an pot completely inside a black garbage back. Then place it in full sun. The heat and humidity will force abundant root growth. I also have potted them into a mix that is 90% perlite after collection to keep maximum aeration for new roots. I imagine pumice would do the same. Sweating is easy to do, much easier than trenching. Give it a shot.

Tony Tickle has written a bit about sweating hawthorns on his blog, look that up if you can.
 

peterbone

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Tony Tickle has written a bit about sweating hawthorns on his blog, look that up if you can.
Hi Mike. Yes I've tried the sweating method for the last 2 years but still not had luck with hawthorns. It seems to do a good job of creating new shoots but I've seen no evidence that it helps root growth. Perhaps I'm missing something. Tony's blog post is very sparse on details.

Something that someone mentioned on Reddit is that the UK is a lot wetter than most of the US, especially in summer. I can understand how trenching in the US may lead to death in the field as the soil dries out over the summer. In the UK it's very unlikely that the soil will ever dry out, which is why I think trenching is the best way of developing a healthy rootball in preparation for collection. I think that the best technique for collecting trees is very location specific and everyone has to find out for themselves what works with their climate, soil type and species, which makes giving advice online difficult. Hence why I made sure to include 'UK' in my post title.
 

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Hawthorns are problematic according to almost everybody I spoke with. I know only about one of my friends claiming he is able to collect them successfully without major losses, and his approach differs from mine only in fact he is straight after collecting removing all old soil, which I'm not doing generally. Regarding Ash, it is so easy to collect you can literally go there in May, collect it with leaves and it survives (my experience with F. ornus).
 

peterbone

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Hawthorns are problematic according to almost everybody I spoke with. I know only about one of my friends claiming he is able to collect them successfully without major losses, and his approach differs from mine only in fact he is straight after collecting removing all old soil, which I'm not doing generally. Regarding Ash, it is so easy to collect you can literally go there in May, collect it with leaves and it survives (my experience with F. ornus).
Thanks Maros. That's useful to know about ash. I'll probably collect it in one go then. Also good to know that I'm not the only one struggling with Hawthorn.
 

Mike Hennigan

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Hi Mike. Yes I've tried the sweating method for the last 2 years but still not had luck with hawthorns. It seems to do a good job of creating new shoots but I've seen no evidence that it helps root growth. Perhaps I'm missing something. Tony's blog post is very sparse on details.

Something that someone mentioned on Reddit is that the UK is a lot wetter than most of the US, especially in summer. I can understand how trenching in the US may lead to death in the field as the soil dries out over the summer. In the UK it's very unlikely that the soil will ever dry out, which is why I think trenching is the best way of developing a healthy rootball in preparation for collection. I think that the best technique for collecting trees is very location specific and everyone has to find out for themselves what works with their climate, soil type and species, which makes giving advice online difficult. Hence why I made sure to include 'UK' in my post title.

Yea I don’t know, I was wondering if your temperatures at the time of year might contribute. Too cool maybe? Maybe providing bottom heat of some kind could help. Do you completely wash out all the field soil when you collect them?
 

peterbone

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Yea I don’t know, I was wondering if your temperatures at the time of year might contribute. Too cool maybe? Maybe providing bottom heat of some kind could help. Do you completely wash out all the field soil when you collect them?
I mostly remove all old field soil. This is because there's never been any fine roots holding the soil together so it tends to fall off. I don't wash the roots though. I do plan on trying a heat bed this year, which I'll be setting up soon.
 

Mike Hennigan

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I mostly remove all old field soil. This is because there's never been any fine roots holding the soil together so it tends to fall off. I don't wash the roots though. I do plan on trying a heat bed this year, which I'll be setting up soon.

Nice! I feel like that heat bed could be a serious game changer for you and the hawthorns. I always wash all field soil off, with like the high pressure hose setting.
 

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Hi Mike. Yes I've tried the sweating method for the last 2 years but still not had luck with hawthorns. It seems to do a good job of creating new shoots but I've seen no evidence that it helps root growth. Perhaps I'm missing something. Tony's blog post is very sparse on details.

Something that someone mentioned on Reddit is that the UK is a lot wetter than most of the US, especially in summer. I can understand how trenching in the US may lead to death in the field as the soil dries out over the summer. In the UK it's very unlikely that the soil will ever dry out, which is why I think trenching is the best way of developing a healthy rootball in preparation for collection. I think that the best technique for collecting trees is very location specific and everyone has to find out for themselves what works with their climate, soil type and species, which makes giving advice online difficult. Hence why I made sure to include 'UK' in my post title.
The sweating approach deserves careful consideration, i suspect it should be combined only when looser soils are encountered and gas exchange or oxygen availability in the soil is not a major factor. Applying this technique with heavy clay type soils could easily magnify anerobic conditions. The main reason why their are few feeder roots in the first place. Thus counteracting the warmith and humidity benefits of enclosing in plastic.
 

Mike Hennigan

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The sweating approach deserves careful consideration, i suspect it should be combined only when looser soils are encountered and gas exchange or oxygen availability in the soil is not a major factor. Applying this technique with heavy clay type soils could easily magnify anerobic conditions. The main reason why their are few feeder roots in the first place. Thus counteracting the warmith and humidity benefits of enclosing in plastic.

I don’t think it’s a good idea to leave field soil on in the first place when it comes to hawthorn, sweating or not. But yea, makes sense.
 

River's Edge

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I don’t think it’s a good idea to leave field soil on in the first place when it comes to hawthorn, sweating or not. But yea, makes sense.
I tend to agree from my collecting experience. I know it goes against the grain for many. I find tree's are rarely in the best condition in the wild, so it is a balance between disruption and providing better growth conditions for recovery and survival. Wherever possible i switch out as much native soil as possible and replace with appropriate sized pumice. Then the key is appropriate after care for the species.
 

Mike Hennigan

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I tend to agree from my collecting experience. I know it goes against the grain for many. I find tree's are rarely in the best condition in the wild, so it is a balance between disruption and providing better growth conditions for recovery and survival. Wherever possible i switch out as much native soil as possible and replace with appropriate sized pumice. Then the key is appropriate after care for the species.
Actually, something very strange happened this past spring. Spring of 2017 I collected a bunch of hawthorn, 10 or so. Most of these were collected with the intention of making a large forest planting with them in a year or two. I wrapped black garbage bags around the rootballs and tied them off until I could get them home and clean the field soil out.

I went back to the same area this past spring to collect more hawthorn and a few other things. To my surprise I had totally left one of the hawthorns sitting in an open field. The rootball with the field soil was still tightly wrapped inside a black garbage bag. And ever MORE surprising was that it had grown branches last summer, under my initial field trunk chop, and it had swelling buds all over the tree. The tree was very much alive after spending an entire year just sitting on the ground in full sun like this.

I brought it home and cleaned out all the field soil and it had grown a lot of fine feeder roots where there would normally be almost none at initial collection. The rootball was not getting much air inside this bag, but conversely it was wrapped tight enough that it didn’t dry out either. I imagine it got very hot inside that rootball in the middle of the summer.

Now, I am ashamed of my lack of attention that led to this. I was collecting a bunch of trees by myself and a snowstorm had blown in so I suppose I wasn’t paying as much attention as I should have. But nonetheless, I feel like this strange accident could tell us something about hawthorn collecting. I would not recommend doing this but the tree is still alive and doing well.
 

BobbyLane

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I don’t think it’s a good idea to leave field soil on in the first place when it comes to hawthorn, sweating or not. But yea, makes sense.

G potter has great success in collecting hawthorn. he's another who doesnt completely bare root/hose off the tree after collection. he did an article on this quite recently
https://www.kaizenbonsai.com/blog/2018/03/potting-yamadori-hawthorn-for-bonsai/

im in the same boat, i would remove most of the field soil by hand and leave a little something in the roots, that the tree was previously used to. i dont usually bare root nursery trees either.
 
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