Will anything kill shoots?

Mike Corazzi

Masterpiece
Messages
2,693
Reaction score
3,256
Location
Lincoln, CA
USDA Zone
9b
I'm looking for a method to stop shoots that start on bare limbs. Specifically cotoneaster but any kind that start shoots.
Olives are easy as breaking them off settles things for weeks or more.
Cotoneaster throws little shoots constantly.

And they come back even if you cut them into the wood.

Seiju elms do it too but they seem to stay gone for a while if you nip them off.


?????????

Be great if something like styptic stick for shaving cuts.
 

HorseloverFat

Squarepants with Conkers
Messages
11,356
Reaction score
16,221
Location
Northeast Wisconsin
USDA Zone
5a
I'm looking for a method to stop shoots that start on bare limbs. Specifically cotoneaster but any kind that start shoots.
Olives are easy as breaking them off settles things for weeks or more.
Cotoneaster throws little shoots constantly.

And they come back even if you cut them into the wood.

Seiju elms do it too but they seem to stay gone for a while if you nip them off.


?????????

Be great if something like styptic stick for shaving cuts.

The non-ideal ash that I’m experimenting with does this, as well.. i have just been plucking as soon as I physically can... so many.. so many.. “protrusion bumps”... it was cute, AT FIRST.. 😂😂😂

So I will also admit to a polite curiosity..

:)
 

Wires_Guy_wires

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
6,453
Reaction score
10,724
Location
Netherlands
I don't know if you guys can easily get some dry ice, but it's worth a try to use some tweezers and just rub some dry ice over emerging shoots. If it doesn't work, make some bottle rockets with the remains!

If you "forget" to puncture the bottle, it'll be a fire-free alternative to fireworks. Just watch out for flying bits of plastic.


A hot glowing nail might damage shoot hotspots, causing them to throw off a little less of them. But it could also damage the tissue below so don't press it on the wood for too long.

Other than that, I have no idea.
 

penumbra

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
9,420
Reaction score
16,031
Location
Front Royal, VA
USDA Zone
6
Rooting hormone kills young shoots and also prevents them. I am not saying I would recommend it on a bonsai, I am just stating the facts.
In fact ther was a product on the market (there probably still is) that was used for just this purpose on landscape trees.
 

sorce

Nonsense Rascal
Messages
32,912
Reaction score
45,593
Location
Berwyn, Il
USDA Zone
6.2
Just get it really unhealthy!

I believe quick diligence will eventually get the situation under control.

The tree wants an always increasing, X amount of folaige, so what will take it regularly one year to not throw folaige there, will take 3 times as long with a bonsai. Maybe longer with a MC bonsai. 😉

Try electrical tape.

Sorce
 

NOZZLE HEAD

Shohin
Messages
381
Reaction score
362
Location
Willamette Valley, Oregon
USDA Zone
8b
Rooting hormone kills young shoots and also prevents them. I am not saying I would recommend it on a bonsai, I am just stating the facts.
In fact ther was a product on the market (there probably still is) that was used for just this purpose on landscape trees.

I was also thinking some auxin on the wound could trick the plant into thinking the bud is still there, but it may lead to true callous formation, or other weird stuff. I’d try it first on a tree that doesn’t have a lot of sunk capital in it.

In commercial hazelnut production we do “chemical pruning” to control suckers at the base of the trees, the industry standard is to use one of the non-systemic herbicides, but some folks use one of the auxin type herbicides, and the suckers don’t come back as fast.
 
Top Bottom