Will it recover? (Japanese larch)

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I purchased this larch online several weeks ago, and it suffered some shipping stress. When it arrived, the foliage was green but wilted all over. I stuck it in the shade, watering it every 2-3 days (it is in a #3 nursery can with an organic mix). About half the foliage turned crispy and brown, and about half has been limping along not healthy but not dead. Over the past week, however, the remaining green foliage has been declining. See photo:

0914211243_HDR.jpg

We are about a month from full-blown fall here. Is there a chance this is just going dormant and will awaken in the spring, or does it look like about time to call it dead?
 

Forsoothe!

Imperial Masterpiece
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It probably got too dry, but it doesn't need to be over watered now. Pull off all the needles and put it on the ground in full sun and wait until next spring. Rain should do all you need, but water every 10 days if if doesn't rain. Don't do anything else for or to the tree other than your normal winterizing.
 
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818
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Salt Lake City, UT, USA
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It probably got too dry, but it doesn't need to be over watered now. Pull off all the needles and put it on the ground in full sun and wait until next spring. Rain should do all you need, but water every 10 days if if doesn't rain. Don't do anything else for or to the tree other than your normal winterizing.

This is exactly the advice that I was hoping for - thank you! Is the purpose of full sun to promote bud-setting, then?

Also, I plan to build a greenhouse before winter, which will have passive temperature control to keep it right around the freezing point. Given the USDA Zone 7 winter climate in Salt Lake City, do you think that it would be better to have this in the greenhouse or not?
 

Forsoothe!

Imperial Masterpiece
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Leo and I differ on sun or no sun. Matter of fact, if you asked a hundred of us, sun or shade, you'd get 50-50 either way. However, I'm right and they're all wrong. If a tree spends the winter in the sun and sitting on the ground, mulched over the lip of the pot, it won't have a problem in spring with leafing out too early (as it does in a protected space or garage) and getting the foliage fried when introduced to the sun. The roots being the same temp as the ground when the pot is in contact with it and slows down the budding stage. This doesn't occur in protected areas and budding out comes too early. One of the lessons you can take from this is that Illinoise is a lousy place to do bonsai and Michigan is a wonderful place to live and do bonsai. It says so right on the license plate!
 

Paradox

Imperial Masterpiece
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In zone 7 problem with larch is insufficient cold. This larch should be outside, in the shade and as exposed to cold as possible.

I am in zone 7 and Ive had a little larch for a few years (at least 5), that I bought locally. It might be a Japanese larch though but I am not sure.
Friend of mine has a couple of NA larch that hes kept for at least 3 years and the seem to be doing fine. He bought them from Pauline Muth who said they should do ok here.

Mine sits on the bench where it gets morning sun and afternoon shade and it grows like a weed.
My friend has his in a similar placement.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

The Professor
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I am in zone 7 and Ive had a little larch for a few years (at least 5), that I bought locally. It might be a Japanese larch though but I am not sure.
Friend of mine has a couple of NA larch that hes kept for at least 3 years and the seem to be doing fine. He bought them from Pauline Muth who said they should do ok here.

Mine sits on the bench where it gets morning sun and afternoon shade and it grows like a weed.
My friend has his in a similar placement.


Key with my warning about larch is to not put them into a shelter that retains heat. In zone 7 they need the cold at night in particular. If you put them in a greenhouse or cold frame, the warmth might be too much. Larch do grow through most of zone 7, maybe into zone 8a, but at some point it does get too warm for them in winter for their range to extend south.
 

Cosmos

Shohin
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Can you post a few closeups of the buds? Do they look like shiny metallic beads, or are they duller? I reckon if you purchased the tree in the second half of the summer, there’s a chance next year’s buds could already have been formed.
 

leatherback

The Treedeemer
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And I believe that advice will probably save this tree if anything can. I probably would've overprotected it!
Zone 7 is beautifull for bonsai. Most hardy species can deal with winter as long as protected from sun and wind. My trees get to play outside in a corner of the yard without too much thinking. This includes japanese & european larch
 
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