JudyB
Queen of the Nuts
@Giga -Here is a thread about the cold greenhouse.
http://www.bonsainut.com/threads/my-cold-green-house.10624/
http://www.bonsainut.com/threads/my-cold-green-house.10624/
Winter Preparation-What Do You Do
- Thread starter ghues
- Start date
Giga
Masterpiece
Maybe I'v been lucky but 6 years straight I havn't done a thing other then move them to my shed if the temps get below 20 degrees - which is rare. Though I do like the idea of building a cold house.
JudyB
Queen of the Nuts
It's a must have for me up here where I live.
I built this special Squirrel getting light saber a few years ago from a couple junk Ruger 1022's
If I can't get them in 50 rounds... I give up.
If I use low velocity CB caps it sounds like a pellet rifle with the longer bull barrel.
LanceMac10
Imperial Masterpiece
Love those 1022's. Its crazy how accurate you can make them if you want to.
Dedicated cold storage building.
http://bonsainut.com/forums/showthr...etup-for-Minnesota&highlight=storage+facility
http://bonsainut.com/forums/showthr...etup-for-Minnesota&highlight=storage+facility
Green mountain barrels is where it's at!
fh05
Mame
I have read in several places to winterize the bonsai in a north facing location. But, I thought the cold winds are blowing from the north and the arctic chill gives the subfreezing temps etc. So my confusion is why north facing and why not south facing?
aml1014
Masterpiece
If you keep them in the shade they'll stay frozen all winter, if they get a lot of sun they'll go through a freeze/thaw cycle which is unhealthy for the roots.
Aaron
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
you don't need a cold house in Va. Beach...I keep posting this photo to "winter wimps" ;-)
Can't imagine why you'd need a coldhouse in Va. Beach. I have posted this photo a lot for "winter wimps" ;-) Bald cypress (La. collected 20 years ago), cedar elm, Japanese maple, amur maple. wisteria, boxwood, zelkova and more. 12-15 F. All the pots are on the ground covered by a foot or so of shredded hardwood mulch. Trees are in a shaded location out of the wind. They typically remain dormant until mid-April-ish, if I don't uncover them
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Dav4
Drop Branch Murphy
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Wintering temperate trees is all about keeping your trees dormant as long as possible while preventing damage from extreme cold and exposure to sun and wind while the tree's soil is frozen. As Aaron pointed out, a south facing exposure will virtually guarantee multiple freeze-thaw cycles through the winter which is far from ideal for root health. Trees can't transpire when the soil is frozen either, so both bark and foliage can be damaged from the sun. The north side of a structure provides winter shade and a subtle increase in ambient temperatures. Placing the trees against the foundation, mulching the pots and providing a wind break if necessary is a great way to winter trees that are cold hardy in your climate...unless falling snow from the roof will be an issue.
Giga
Masterpiece
If I had a cold house then mother nature could send me more snow - I miss the snow
. Most likely what i'll do is build a simple frame with plastic top for those random cold snaps(belore 20), rather then moving them to the garage- less to move and ez'er
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
If I had a cold house then mother nature could send me more snow - I miss the snow
Why don't you just mulch them on the ground? All that moving isn't worth the time and can influence root temps and growth quickly.
Mulch moderates temperature swings both ways. Cold snaps and warm spells don't matter if you've got a thick mulch bed around the roots. Temperatures are more constant.
Giga
Masterpiece
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
Not trying to do that. Just trying to make less work for you ;-). Here in Va. Zone 7 and especially southeastern Va. heavy winter protection is mostly unnecessary. Special buildings are especially unnecessary and can do more harm than good.
What about an unheated crawl space? It's low 20s outside with teens coming. It's 40s in the unheated space under my house today.
Most are on the north foundation of the house but not mulched in yet. My bad. But put the tender stuff in small pots in the crawl space maybe?
They are all froze solid now.
Most are on the north foundation of the house but not mulched in yet. My bad. But put the tender stuff in small pots in the crawl space maybe?
They are all froze solid now.
LanceMac10
Imperial Masterpiece
Get ready for albino growth in mid-march! My pardna' does this with Chinese Elms.....some Maples as well. Not really what you want, but their still alive, thru some 6 seasons or so.
Preferably, you like to see growth breaking in April, earlier is a hassle and it's tough to keep Maple leaves pretty 'till fall foliage time. I used to keep my ROR Trident down there......put it with my other trees on my porch/cold-frame and it never woke up. Meh!
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
This all depends on what your "tender" plants are. I suspect they're not "tender" at all. If they require dormancy, they're probably well able to withstand being mulched for the winter in the backyard for the winter. I have low twenties and single digits in my area most winters and dips into minus F temps some winters for at least a few nights in February. I've overwinter Southern species like bald cypress, cedar elm, as well as Japanese maple and Trident with only mulch in garden beds or cold pits.That BC has seen -10 F mulched in the covered cold pit several times over the twenty years I've had it.
The cold snap that's headed at us isn't going to last for more than a week. That's not that long. If you mulch now, the mulch pile will "lag" the warmer temps at the root zone for days. Mulch also taps into the earth's mass to maintain steadier temperatures at the root zone--which is why in ground trees are mostly impervious to deep cold for short periods. You are flirting with disaster moving trees around in the cold. Crawl spaces are very bad places for plants and trees.
Stop trying to keep your trees "warm" They don't need it or appreciate it.
milehigh_7
Mister 500,000
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