Winter tree cuttings and rooting hormone

[tph18]

Hey everyone,

I am going to make some cuttings of an ornamental crabapple tree this winter and plant them in the spring (I live in Massachusetts). Should I apply the rooting hormone during the winter while I am storing the cuttings or in the spring when I plant them?

I am not sure what species my tree is, but I think the genus is either Sugar Tyme, Ellen Gerhart, or Adirondack.

Best,
Tom

 

[Paradox]

It is my understanding that it is best to take cuttings when you are ready to pot them, not store them for months beforehand.
It is also my understanding that it is best to take cuttings when the tree is actively growing. Spring-Summer
Ive taken cuttings of junipers in September, planted them in pots and successfully got plants from them.
Might be different for your species but not sure. Id recommend looking up if/how that species is successfully propagated from cuttings

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

It is my understanding that it is best to take cuttings when you are ready to pot them, not store them for months beforehand.
It is also my understanding that it is best to take cuttings when the tree is actively growing. Spring-Summer
Ive taken cuttings of junipers in September, planted them in pots and successfully got plants from them.
Might be different for your species but not sure. Id recommend looking up if/how that species is successfully propagated from cuttings

Just before growing should be fine too. The shock from wounding will wake them up.

Storage can be done but it drops strike numbers in a large percentage of plants. Very few plants require it.

 

[ShadyStump]

First year trying cuttings myself, but as I've researched it...

Hardwood (last year's lignified growth) cuttings in fall or winter: may be held in cool moist environment until planting in spring, or planted immediately if held indoors.
Softwood cuttings of actively growing trees in spring/summer to immediately be planted intact, with all the leaves but no fruit.
Semi-hardwood (this years growth that's just starting to harden off) taken in winter/early spring to be planted immediately.
Depending on the species of tree, the strictness of these rules is variable. Feel free to experiment and let us know.

In all cases, rooting hormone is applied at the time of planting, and may not even be necessary or advised depending on the species.
Minimize the number of spurs on the branches to be used, but leave a half dozen buds. Aim for a length a little longer than your hand. Differing opinions on whether to cut both ends, or get a cutting of the very tip of the branch. Hardwood vs softwood vs semi-hardwood will influence this decision.

Good luck!

 

[HorseloverFat]

First year trying cuttings myself, but as I've researched it...

Hardwood (last year's lignified growth) cuttings in fall or winter: may be held in cool moist environment until planting in spring, or planted immediately if held indoors.
Softwood cuttings of actively growing trees in spring/summer to immediately be planted intact, with all the leaves but no fruit.
Semi-hardwood (this years growth that's just starting to harden off) taken in winter/early spring to be planted immediately.
Depending on the species of tree, the strictness of these rules is variable. Feel free to experiment and let us know.

In all cases, rooting hormone is applied at the time of planting, and may not even be necessary or advised depending on the species.
Minimize the number of spurs on the branches to be used, but leave a half dozen buds. Aim for a length a little longer than your hand. Differing opinions on whether to cut both ends, or get a cutting of the very tip of the branch. Hardwood vs softwood vs semi-hardwood will influence this decision.

Good luck!

To add...

I’ve also had success taking hardwood cuttings in fall.. frost-“netting” them.. and leaving to the elements... by spring they (the successful ones) have mostly rooted.. but AT LEAST calloused.. this may be specie specific, I am not sure.

 

[HorseloverFat]

The Woody Dwarves have brought it to my attention that I never welcomed you to the Tiny Forest..I need to watch my skin ‘round the Papavers.

Ehhhg! Mutton and Grog is on me, traveller.... Welcome!

If you’d like to update your profile to reflect either a location or a climate zone.. Myself and others will be able to help you more effectively.

 

[leatherback]

Differing opinions on whether to cut both ends, or get a cutting of the very tip of the branch.

Species plays into this as well.

For malus, I have found that taking cuttings in fall, planting deep (1/3 burried) gives roots in spring when growth starts. (I trimmed and digging in the garden afterwards partially coverred them. Had to pull them when they started growing in spring

 

[HorseloverFat]

Species plays into this as well.

For malus, I have found that taking cuttings in fall, planting deep (1/3 burried) gives roots in spring when growth starts. (I trimmed and digging in the garden afterwards partially coverred them. Had to pull them when they started growing in spring

HAHAHA!!! One of the species I was referring to.. WAS crabapple...

 

[Tieball]

I’ve had the best success...luck....in the spring, cutting right at bud swell. But that’s just me and my habit.

 

[AlainK]

I am going to make some cuttings of an ornamental crabapple tree this winter

If you can dig out a root, it will be the best option. Root cuttings take very easily, even when the root is planted upside down. 3-4 weeks before the last frosts, 4-5 weeks before the trees in the ground bud out.

If you can take some now and keep the (root) cuttings at say 3°C to 13°C, they're very, very likely to take. Several species of Prunus can also be reproduced that way, various Ulmus too.

Of course it will be years if you prefer "Big Bonsai", but for smaller ones, it's fun to try.

 

[HorseloverFat]

I’ve had the best success...luck....in the spring, cutting right at bud swell. But that’s just me and my habit.

Absolutely... this is when I, also, have had the most luck... all’th’woods..

 

[Shibui]

If you can dig out a root, it will be the best option. Root cuttings take very easily, even when the root is planted upside down. 3-4 weeks before the last frosts, 4-5 weeks before the trees in the ground bud out.

Provided the tree is not grafted. Grafted roots will still strike but will be a different var.

I also have good success with apple cuttings taken in fall and buried until spring. I get a good % success without hormone on those but if applying hormone it should be done very soon after the stem is cut. The plant starts to close pores(?) soon after cutting and absorption is reduced. Cuttings stored in damp paper in plastic bag in cool conditions is also viable. I have had apple and plum scion sticks develop callus and proto roots while stored in the fridge.

 

[sorce]

Sorry that young feller made me skip your welcome last thread! Lol! Kids!

Welcome to Crazy!

Best not to use hormones on things meant for bonsai I reckon.

You don't want something that needs help growing roots.

We should only use good genetics.

Sorce

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

@leatherback is spot on. Species does play a role in striking hardwood cuttings. I’ve rooted a number of satsuki azalea cuttings, as a test twice each month this fall and winter this year, so far very successfully. With and without IBA.

Crabapple: There is a book that covers most of these situations, The Reference of Woody Plant Propagation, by Dirr and Heuser. I’ve got the 2nd edition. It basically says for hardwood crabapple cuttings they recommend treating the basal ends with IBA 2500 to 5000 in insulated bins with bottom heat 64-70 F for about 4 weeks, leaving the tops ends exposed to cool temperature, then to plant the cuttings before bud growth commences.

I took some Crab and Maple cuttings I tossed on the ground early last December and left laving about until this weekend. Then I stuck these, no IBA, into the forests I have if each. We’ll see what happens this spring.

cheers
DSD sends

 

[penumbra]

Indeed get the book recommended The Reference of Woody Plant Propagation, by Dirr and Heuser.
You will learn more in a day or two browsing this book than you will in a host of posts.
Other than that, experiment. Push the edges of what is the norm.

 

[Paradox]

Indeed get the book recommended The Reference of Woody Plant Propagation, by Dirr and Heuser.
You will learn more in a day or two browsing this book than you will in a host of posts.
Other than that, experiment. Push the edges of what is the norm.

I will second this book. Its an excellent reference.
Make sure you had your Wheaties though. Its not a small book by any means!

 

[River's Edge]

If you can dig out a root, it will be the best option. Root cuttings take very easily, even when the root is planted upside down. 3-4 weeks before the last frosts, 4-5 weeks before the trees in the ground bud out.

If you can take some now and keep the (root) cuttings at say 3°C to 13°C, they're very, very likely to take. Several species of Prunus can also be reproduced that way, various Ulmus too.

Of course it will be years if you prefer "Big Bonsai", but for smaller ones, it's fun to try.

The other advantage to root cuttings is often the movement built in to the cutting. This can introduce movement right at the soil level if planted with care and sufficient exposure!