Wintergreen boxwood advice

Bart99

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image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg I've had this guy in a regular pot in my yard for a few years and I've just begun trying to shrink the root ball.

It has three main branches all coming out from the same spot on the trunk which I think is a no-no.

What should I do about that and what else should I do with this tree pruning wise?
 
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Bart99

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Sorry about that. I posted this from my phone and couldn't get the text above the photos. The photos are also in reverse order, but you get the idea!
 

sorce

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Probly not now...
But I'd cut it at all the first forks.
It'll Probly bud lower for you.

The 3 split doesn't look so bad, but it seems to be begging for a layerin above the barkless patch in that first pic.

Sorce
 

BunjaeKorea

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Box woods dont like heavy cuts in summer...unless youre making a box from the wood......get it?
Also if you cut all the foliage from a branch that branch will die like on pines. You can trim some of the more delicate growth.
 

0soyoung

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I picked up a couple of boxwoods at a local garden nursery's 'lemon sale' last year. Obviously I haven't had much time to see what they do, but they seem to do well if defoliated but for the leaves at the very tip (and keeping the tip, of course). This produced new shoots (ramification), not just new leaves. I also can verify the tendency
if you cut all the foliage from a branch that branch will die like on pines
My thinking is that a routine to use is: defoliate keeping tips, then later cut back after the new shoots have hardened. I have no idea yet of 'optimum' times, but defoliating in May worked for me (just required several weeks of patient waiting).
 

sorce

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This produced new shoots (ramification), not just new leaves.

:confused:

Maybe this just sounds funny...without the other "in brain" context....

But is there a tree that only puts out leaves and not shoots after defoliation?

If it seems I am riding you...I may be...
But without my crop!

Sorce
 

rockm

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Box woods dont like heavy cuts in summer...unless youre making a box from the wood......get it?
Also if you cut all the foliage from a branch that branch will die like on pines. You can trim some of the more delicate growth.

No really true, can depend greatly on what KIND of boxwood it is and a few other things. Big old English Boxwood (buxus sempervirens "Suffruticosa") can be hacked back to bare wood and recover with no problems.

I've also done that to some of the Korean Boxwood (Buxus Sinica) I had for years. Your Wintergreen cultivar is Buxus Sinica "insularis", so you might be able to cut back to bare wood.

I'd remove two of the leaders (leaving the smallest one with the most movement) now. I don't think it would matter much. Seal the cuts and you won't have any problems. This boxwood is tough.
 

sorce

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I think it is a long list, but maples are an example.

For real?

Bullshit....

Show me!

Now I got my crop out...
But it is just my "play" crop!

Is it special cultivars?

Sorce
 

BunjaeKorea

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No really true, can depend greatly on what KIND of boxwood it is and a few other things. Big old English Boxwood (buxus sempervirens "Suffruticosa") can be hacked back to bare wood and recover with no problems.

I've also done that to some of the Korean Boxwood (Buxus Sinica) I had for years. Your Wintergreen cultivar is Buxus Sinica "insularis", so you might be able to cut back to bare wood.

I'd remove two of the leaders (leaving the smallest one with the most movement) now. I don't think it would matter much. Seal the cuts and you won't have any problems. This boxwood is tough.

True that......though I live in Korea and for some reason if you hack them back here they are pretty likely to die. Not 100% of course but its pretty risky. For optimal results though summer cutting may not be the best, less time to strengthen up before winter but that is also a location issue which may not apply to everyone
 

Bart99

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So hear we are, 8 months later and the tree is pushing out new growth and I'm still not sure what to do. The above thread got a little off topic and some of the advice seemed in conflict.

Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions ?

Pics to follow. Thanks!
 

0soyoung

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I'm still not sure what to do.
Does this look kinda like a tree?

box1.JPG

You may want to spin it around and see how it looks for other 'sides'. It will be more believable if branches in the back (from your vantage point) are thinner and ones in front are thicker. For instance, if the branch in the middle of the pic above is thicker than the other two, the view 180 degrees (opposite) this would be better. Another aspect is that one wants the tree to not be recoiling in horror which is how it feels when the trunk and branches run away. It is much friendlier when it tilts or bows toward the viewer (front). Finally, the nebari is maybe the most important single aspect of a good bonsai. Choose the view with the best of these to be 'the front'.

Now, about those primary branches. Even in the cropped view I've given you they seem quite taperless and somewhat unnatural. Remedies are to chase the foliage down until you can chop what is presently there and replace it with new branches that you spend a few years chopping and growing to develop taper and movement - years. Placing foliage to cross in front will sometimes trick 'the eye' into not noticing this (straight and taperless) and is something that could be done in the next season or two.

The point is, what I've shown you (above) is your tree. You need to decide how to fill out the top to make an attractive bonsai (and attractive to you is all that matters). What you decide you want will dictate your next steps.

Wrestle with it!
 

Bart99

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Thanks for the great reply!!

<< Now, about those primary branches. Even in the cropped view I've given you they seem quite taperless and somewhat unnatural.>>

You're absolutely right and I never noticed or considered that problem before. I'll spend some time thinking/looking/acting on that issue first.

Thanks again!
 
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