Worth Collecting?

drew33998

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Jacksonville, Fl
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Found a possible yew to collect. Wonder if the owner will hold off until winter to let me collect it. I have contacted him about being interested and asked if he had to have it gone ASAP or if he could wait until winter. Thoughts???possibleyew.jpg
 
If you're in N. FL, it's probably a podocarpus, and yes, definitely worth collecting. You can take it back pretty far and it should pop right back.
 
If you're in N. FL, it's probably a podocarpus, and yes, definitely worth collecting. You can take it back pretty far and it should pop right back.

Ok, I am going to go have a peek at it. And the old nursery tag was still on it. Japanese Yew is what it said, though I have only ever seen podocarpus in our area like you said.
 
podocarpus are commonly called chinese yew if it helps. Its definitely a podocarpus from the pic
 
No question about it being a podacarpus- also they won't mind being collected pretty much now. I've dug them in August and have had no problems.
 
No question about it being a podacarpus- also they won't mind being collected pretty much now. I've dug them in August and have had no problems.

Ok, Well I might just have a go at collecting it now. We are still in the low 80's in temp. But I'm guessing that in Cali you guys are prob around the same temps we have in August.
 
If you're in N. FL, it's probably a podocarpus, and yes, definitely worth collecting. You can take it back pretty far and it should pop right back.

Hi Brian, i was told that some varieties of podocarpus dont bud at all if chopped without any leaf, just like pines and junipers. Can you clarify that point please. I have one I airlayered and left nothing bellow the airlayer. it has no shoots though it has developed lots of roots. I am scared to cut off the airlayer, and have been thinking of approach grafting it before I remove the airlayer. Anyone with experience please chip in as to how podocarpus buds on bare trunk without any foliage mass.
 
Hi Brian, i was told that some varieties of podocarpus dont bud at all if chopped without any leaf, just like pines and junipers. Can you clarify that point please. I have one I airlayered and left nothing bellow the airlayer. it has no shoots though it has developed lots of roots. I am scared to cut off the airlayer, and have been thinking of approach grafting it before I remove the airlayer. Anyone with experience please chip in as to how podocarpus buds on bare trunk without any foliage mass.

I have seen my grandfather chop his landscape podo's down to a stub every year and they always come back. However I wont chop it down to a stub if I do collect it. It will be cut down in thirds over a period of time until I get the height right. No need to rush.
 
I have seen my grandfather chop his landscape podo's down to a stub every year and they always come back. However I wont chop it down to a stub if I do collect it. It will be cut down in thirds over a period of time until I get the height right. No need to rush.
There's different school of thought on this.

This is what I follow.
1. Root to trunk ratio. the less trunk it needs to support the better.
2. I believe die back results more when you keep more trunk. (roots cannot support it)
3. I do my worst and chop as hard as needed at collection...channel all new growth and energy to what I intend to keep.
4. Root to foliage ratio. Reduced root mass cannot support transpiration that foliage does. Foliage need to be reduced proportionately IMHO. I know juniper seem to be the exception to this but I have no real experience there.
5. Use cut paste.
6. Timing is very important, but if you do not have a choice, go for it.

Some say I am rushing by doing this...I say I am doing what I believe is best for the plant. I believe doing it my way causes less shock and results in higher survival rate. Whether I am mistaken or not is another question. :D

Note that this is my general guideline and there are exceptions like; trees that do not back bud, trees that store energy on leaves, etc.

Weigh which ones makes sense then make your choice. I just share what I do (and what I was thought ages ago) which seems to work.

Good luck!!! :)
 
I have seen my grandfather chop his landscape podo's down to a stub every year and they always come back. However I wont chop it down to a stub if I do collect it. It will be cut down in thirds over a period of time until I get the height right. No need to rush.
Drew, i hear some varieties you can chop even to bare trunk, but some will almost die if you do that. Forgotten though which is which and is hard for me to differentiate them. I have only two types.
Cuttings of podocarpus i root very easily, but I have noticed that the ones I leave without foliage always die.
 
There's different school of thought on this.

This is what I follow.
1. Root to trunk ratio. the less trunk it needs to support the better.
2. I believe die back results more when you keep more trunk. (roots cannot support it)
3. I do my worst and chop as hard as needed at collection...channel all new growth and energy to what I intend to keep.
4. Root to foliage ratio. Reduced root mass cannot support transpiration that foliage does. Foliage need to be reduced proportionately IMHO. I know juniper seem to be the exception to this but I have no real experience there.
5. Use cut paste.
6. Timing is very important, but if you do not have a choice, go for it.

Some say I am rushing by doing this...I say I am doing what I believe is best for the plant. I believe doing it my way causes less shock and results in higher survival rate. Whether I am mistaken or not is another question. :D

Note that this is my general guideline and there are exceptions like; trees that do not back bud, trees that store energy on leaves, etc.

Weigh which ones makes sense then make your choice. I just share what I do (and what I was thought ages ago) which seems to work.

Good luck!!! :)

i would argue that most of this does not pertain to junipers
 
Holy Trunk Batman!!!

Ok the owner and I have come to an agreement for me to pick this tree up. I am going Sunday to remove it. I got her to send me a picture of the trunk with a 32 oz Gatorade in front. The first description she gave me was "I think it is about 1" in diameter". This looks to be quite a challenge. From first glance obviously the trunk is very straight, so I am thinking of putting it in the ground and air layering section off of it, until I get down to the trunk. I am thinking that given the size of the base this thing should have some pretty nice branches. Using the base as a bonsai will also be a challenge since it has no taper, actually appears to have reverse taper, and a new leader will have to be chosen and carving will be in order. I know you guys have some opinions on this so lets hear them. Tools I intend to use: Sawzall, shovel, axe, shears(if I need them), hand saw(if needed) anything else? Also I have quite a drive home which looks like 80 degree weather. What about protecting the foliage from the wind and roots from drying?



Yewbigguy.jpgYewbigguy2.jpg
 
If it's a telephone pole-like straight trunk, it might not be worth collecting.
 
What about protecting the foliage from the wind and roots from drying?

Take along a heavy trash bag or two and water the roots well in the bag to transport it. Make sure you have a spot prepared for it when you get it home.

Grimmy
 
If it's a telephone pole-like straight trunk, it might not be worth collecting.

Yes I was thinking the same as it does appear to have a straight trunk from what I see. I am thinking that the final design will have to incorporate a lot of deadwood to transform the straight trunk into something with taper. A primary branch will be wired as the new leader and styled accordingly. This of course is many years down the road.
 
There's different school of thought on this.

This is what I follow.
1. Root to trunk ratio. the less trunk it needs to support the better.
2. I believe die back results more when you keep more trunk. (roots cannot support it)
3. I do my worst and chop as hard as needed at collection...channel all new growth and energy to what I intend to keep.
4. Root to foliage ratio. Reduced root mass cannot support transpiration that foliage does. Foliage need to be reduced proportionately IMHO. I know juniper seem to be the exception to this but I have no real experience there.
5. Use cut paste.
6. Timing is very important, but if you do not have a choice, go for it.

Some say I am rushing by doing this...I say I am doing what I believe is best for the plant. I believe doing it my way causes less shock and results in higher survival rate. Whether I am mistaken or not is another question. :D

Note that this is my general guideline and there are exceptions like; trees that do not back bud, trees that store energy on leaves, etc.

Weigh which ones makes sense then make your choice. I just share what I do (and what I was thought ages ago) which seems to work.

Good luck!!! :)

Sorry didnt see it. Even on the re-read. I guess i speed read your posts ;) Ive read it 4 times now and only see it once though for what its worth

I hi-lited it for you. 2nd is not directly mentioned as juniper but what I was referring to.
 
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