Would like to save my Juniper

Messages
246
Reaction score
110
Location
New Jersey
USDA Zone
7a
Hello everyone. I have kept this Juniper for the last 2 years. I repotted it this spring and apparently the tree has not been able to recover since.
I only cut about 1/3 of the original root ball and only removed about half of the original soil, it was repotted using pUmice, akadama and crushed lava rock.
I've been keeping it in the shade hoping it will recover.
I'm pretty sure that it's not being over or under watered.
Any help will be appreciated.
thanks
Steve20170524_192319.jpg20170524_192331.jpg 20170524_192319.jpg20170524_192307.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 20170524_192255.jpg
    20170524_192255.jpg
    243.8 KB · Views: 37
Messages
246
Reaction score
110
Location
New Jersey
USDA Zone
7a
It was out on the sun, but since apparently it's stressed I decided to put it in the shade.
 

MrBeto

Mame
Messages
235
Reaction score
122
Location
Channelview, Tx.
USDA Zone
9
Fertilizing ? Mine was a little discolored too after repotting. I started using slow release fertilizer, and is improving great. Vigoro for evergreens works great in my junipers and jbp.
 
Messages
246
Reaction score
110
Location
New Jersey
USDA Zone
7a
Ca
Fertilizing ? Mine was a little discolored too after repotting. I started using slow release fertilizer, and is improving great. Vigoro for evergreens works great in my junipers and jbp.
Hi.

Can you post a picture of yours please.
I'm using organic fertilizer 4.4.4.

Thanks,
Steve
 

MrBeto

Mame
Messages
235
Reaction score
122
Location
Channelview, Tx.
USDA Zone
9
Ca

Hi.

Can you post a picture of yours please.
I'm using organic fertilizer 4.4.4.

Thanks,
Steve
I'm at work right now, but it's easy. You can find it in Home Depot. Vigoro for evergreens. You want a fertilizer high in nitrogen. I think this one has 16 or 18%. 4.4.4 is too low. Costs like $5. Cheap and effective. Some guys here use as high as 24%, but this one works for me. Good luck !
 
Messages
246
Reaction score
110
Location
New Jersey
USDA Zone
7a
I'm at work right now, but it's easy. You can find it in Home Depot. Vigoro for evergreens. You want a fertilizer high in nitrogen. I think this one has 16 or 18%. 4.4.4 is too low. Costs like $5. Cheap and effective. Some guys here use as high as 24%, but this one works for me. Good luck !
Actually I meant a picture of your Juniper.
 

Eric Group

Masterpiece
Messages
4,554
Reaction score
4,855
Location
Columbia, SC
Check for spider mites.
Check for spider mites.
Check for spider mites.

Just making sure you saw this one! You seem to have responded to the others, but most often when a bright green Juni turns dull grey/yellow/brown like this it is due to spider mites. Check for them or just hit it with a dose of safer soap or some sort of Miticide... I bet you see bright green tips again within a week or two if you do that..
 

MrBeto

Mame
Messages
235
Reaction score
122
Location
Channelview, Tx.
USDA Zone
9

BeebsBonsai

Shohin
Messages
313
Reaction score
177
Location
Hickory Hills, IL.
USDA Zone
5B
Steve,

I would say that there are three potential issues here. I will list them in the order from most probably to least, and will give you preventative measures for those that have the option to:

1.) You put it in the shade: Junipers, and really conifers in general, love full sun. In fact, if a juniper doesn't get full sun over the course of a few years, you can visibly see a difference in strength, vigor, and color. It's not that bad of an idea to keep it in partial sun right after the repot, especially if you are in a really warm climate, but you shouldn't wait more than a week to get it back out into full sun. Get it out into full sun as soon as possible.
2.) Treat for Mites: It is quite possible that the tree is infected with Spider Mites, especially if you kept watering the same amount when the tree was in the shade. Go to your local nursery and buy horticultural oil. It is stronger than Neem Oil. This will will the spider mites and also kill any eggs they have laid on the tree. Please note: For a day or two after you apply the oil, keep it out of the sun, as Horticultural Oil in full sun will burn the foliage. Follow the label in regards to how long you need to keep the application on for it to be effective, and then water the foliage with a strong enough flow to remove the oil from the foliage.
3.) Juniper Branch/Tip Blight- This is a fungus, I believe (If I am wrong someone step in and correct me), which occurs when there is too much moisture in the canopy of the tree. Typically this is caused by overwatering, but it can also occur because the tree is near other specimen that are infected with it. For this, you can use Mancozeb. Please read the label and research online for the correct dilution ratios. I have not been able to find a pre-mixed solution, and really you want to be able to control the amount in your solution. In addition, remove all yellow, potentially infected tissue.

Try to fix these three issues in order. See how it responds to full sun and check for mites. You can typically see them on the foliage. Where I live, they are red little spider mites. I have also seen white spider mites. If you can see mites, go ahead and treat that right away. If the full sun and spider mite treatment doesn't stop the decline of the tree, go for the Mancozeb option. I hope your tree survives. It really has a great branch structure. Make sure you are watering enough but not too much. When a tree is freshly repotted, it takes awhile before it begins absorbing water like it did before the root work. You can see it happen over time with how quickly the soil dries out.
 

drew33998

Masterpiece
Messages
2,033
Reaction score
1,286
Location
Jacksonville, Fl
USDA Zone
8-9
Fwiw, i have found needle junipers to be much more succeptable to spider mites.
 

augustine

Chumono
Messages
755
Reaction score
553
Location
Pasadena, MD
USDA Zone
7A
The problem is mites, scale (check for scale) or disease. There is no way the juniper looks like this due to underfertilization or shade, maybe in a couple years but not a couple of months into the growing season. Follow Mr. Beeb's advice
 
Top Bottom