YAMADORI HAWTHORN PROBLEM

August44

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I collected some black Hawthorn in the spring two years ago. They did fine but I didn't like the foliage directions so whacked it all off this spring and black bagged them for a while until there was a number of shoots growing. Now the shoots don't seem to be very strong, and I am losing leaves. The shoots got long, thin and droopy, so I cut them back. They are in APL mix and fertilized normally. They are under shade cloth. I sprayed them with Copper Sulfate the other day because some of the leaves were a little spotty when they turned yellow and fell off. I thought these were tough trees so guess I am obviously doing something wrong. Help appreciated. Thanks!
 

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RKatzin

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Full sun, full sun, full sun! All my hawthorn are in the full sun position, including monogyna, pentagyna, oxycantha and Paul's Scarlet. I feed sparingly, maybe twice during growing season with slow release organic. Water regularly according to current temperature, the hotter it gets I increase the frequency. Every two to three days in the 70's, once a day in the 80's, twice a day in 90's+. All grow well in sifted pumice. Allow new growth to extend several leaves and then trim to direction desired. I allow extension during the waxing moon and trim during the waning phase. Works for me.
 

Deep Sea Diver

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New Hawthorne, second and third flush growth isnt as robust as first flush and tends to be droopy when its warm and sunny. It hasn’t got the cuticle fully formed.

This new growth, especially new extensions, like you are getting…in the sun, tends to transpire water faster then the water can be replaced. So watering a lot as @RKatzin mentioned will solve the problem.

Yet I’m not around all day sometimes. So instead I move the trees into a more shaded location until the cuticle forms. About 7 days out here. imho this allows the new growth to extend faster as it isn’t constantly alternating from a fluid positive/fluid negative mode. Once the cuticle has formed, back in the sun.

See below image. Second growth extensions, cuticle almost fully formed. Pruning back, striking the cuttings, and into the sun the tree goes.

image.jpg

Once pruned to where you want it, the new extensions off this initial growth will push again. Repeat if needed.

I love the idea of timing by the moon phases! Here’s the Almanacs recommended dates to prune in case you are interested. Yet it seems to me regular timing is the key factor.

In your situation, I would leave everything that grows out on the trunk for now. Get the energy positive and robust. Don’t even prune for at least four weeks or more, depending on how strong the growth is. Then prune everything back to a prospective location, but no shoot selection. Keep this going all year. In the winter select the branches you like best and keep a couple extra.

cheers
DSD sends
 

BobbyLane

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its probably just weak. you said you collected it, then when it grew you cut everything off, so there's the problem, it didnt get a chance to build up some root power.
or else why do you need to black bag a tree that was collected two years ago. healthy hawthorn bud back on old wood like any other deciduous tree. droopy new growth, is equal to weak rootage.
 
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August,
Did these pull through?
All mine died from that batch. But got 90% on the 5 from this year.
 

August44

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August,
Did these pull through?
All mine died from that batch. But got 90% on the 5 from this year.
DOA I'm afraid. Bad mgt on my part me thinks and maybe collected a little late. Like to get a couple more. Glad you had good luck this year Paul. Don't know if Jon told you that explored a new forest and found some very nice Mt Hemlocks. You come with him this fall and collect some and some Larch too. Looking forward to it!
 
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