Yamadori packaging

wireme

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Here's a few of my methods for packing trees up in preparation for the hike out. My trips out can be rough, loose unstable scree, steep cliffy stuff and worst of all thick forest dense brush, sometimes all in the same places. Getting fragile roots and deadwood out in one piece is a challenge, trees need to be maneuvered, woven through the gnar, upside down, right side up backwards etc...

I treat the rootballs like a wilderness first aid injury immobilizing everything the best I can. Thin sheets of fine matted roots often cannot be bent, they will just break.

Here's a tree collected last week, I carry a bag full of pre- moistened burlap, nice and wet. I used to just wrap in plastic and moss but I like the burlap better, right away providing a nice moist supportive covering. I also carry a misting bottle, misting exposed roots as I work and covering exposed roots with the moist burlap while working the other side. once the tree is ready to lift I lay the burlap down on the nearest flatish spot (in this case on an ants nest, not recommended). Carefully check for roots that need supporting before lifting the tree! The weight of soil and fine roots can break the supporting root off if lifted the wrong way sometimes.
The tree was carefully carried to the anthill and laid on the burlap. Burlap tied and an L shaped stick tied on as a splint stabilizing roots to trunk. Sometimes pulling the roots tight to themselves can be damaging too so folds of burlap or handfuls of moss can be used like a blanket between the legs of someone with a pelvic injury. Then, working alone the tree was balanced in a stump and the works tightly wrapped with packing plastic, the rolls of stretchy stuff you know? I would not leave home without that stuff.
 

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The tree boxed up, I really like this one, tall and classy, 2 spiralling live veins, great rootball it should do well.

It's previous home on the other pic, top of the cliff band above, actually quite easy hike out, nice open slopes.
 

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Here's another, same materials, another stick splint and the trunk tied to the rootball minimizing movement.
 

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The roots untied, there's a coupled feet of flexible root coiled on the ground there.

And the root tied to the trunk with plastic wrap, a perfect example of a weak point, a lot of weight dangling on the end of a weak root junction, simply lifting the tree of the ground the wrong way could have lead to the loss of a third of the entire rootball.
 

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And the tree, great deadwood fin. In the box partially filled a possible future front, fin is not presented at its best from this side but the live veins coil over to the front and a large undulating surface root could be exposed.

That's all for now, wet burlap, stretchy packing plastic and sticks.
 

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I'm lucky that I only ever have to walk on flat ground being in Ontario. The biggest challenges i encounter are fast moving spring streams and/or tracts of dense bush.

To deal with the latter, I saw a clever post on IBC once of some guys out in eastern Europe who shrink wrap the entire tree, foliage and all. This cocoon method protects fragile deadwood and branches when diving through the bush head down.

I like your idea of splinting the rootball.
 
I'll keep that in mind, might help in some cases. Another idea for getting them down mountains, take up paragliding!
 
These two are looking very good, still green and strong growing tips, so far so good.
 

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This sure works... I also use the plastic to wrap pots of prebonsai or stock before transport, (Im on a scooter.. ) so you can pack them in a box any which way and when you arrive home voila, theyre fine

Just thinking this could be an idea for the people who ship/ post/courier bonsai from A to B


Also, great idea with the splint
 
Great stuff, thanks for posting. Do you do any fall collecting as we've found it to be more successful here (on Van. Is.) than the spring?
Are they common juni's?
Keep us posted on their development.
Cheers Graham
 
A little bit of fall collecting, not as ambitiously, I am more confident in the spring but that's based on instinct and general recommendations more than experience. It gets really cold here in early winter often minus 20 c by early December and short periods of minus -30c in Jan.

I don't think I've ever put fall collected material into a growbox or pot. Before moving I had some grow beds with a nice airy mix of old aggregates and fluffy decaying organics. The fall collected trees went into those beds and although there have not been many, 10 or 15 or so, I don't think I lost any.
 
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So what methods are you guys using that you've found fall to be more successful Graham? Into boxes or the seasoil mounds I've read about? Both?

I'd like to try more fall collecting so glad to hear of others experience. As I mentioned the fall and winter temps here are a lot harsher than yours so I'm not sure how applicable your methods will be to my climate but curious nonetheless.
 
So what methods are you guys using that you've found fall to be more successful Graham? Into boxes or the seasoil mounds I've read about? Both?

I'd like to try more fall collecting so glad to hear of others experience. As I mentioned the fall and winter temps here are a lot harsher than yours so I'm not sure how applicable your methods will be to my climate but curious nonetheless.

My fall comments equates to late summer really - I've collected in late August (and it survived) but mainly I collect from Sept to mid October.
The methods for collection are close to yours but without the wooden splint (great idea though), cut out a large root ball, coat root mass with wet moss and shrink wrap (photos attached-Shore pine Sept 4th 2010 and Mtn Hemi-Sept 2013 all have survived thus far). Once home, they go straight into a grow box, large container or are layered with a sea soil/pumice mix (layer of the stuff on top and bottom).
I noticed that you were or are a tree planter so you've probably been involved in a summer plant so I believe its the same principle.... that being - late summer is another active root egress period...get the trees into the ground and get some root growth before the winter chills....bringing the trees down from 5500' to 200' I believe extends their active root period by a number of weeks.
Cheers
Graham
 

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Quick update, both trees very healthy and enjoying full sun on one of the hottest days I have ever seen here, water, water, water, glad it's a weekend!
 

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