Young branches of European beech dry up during the overwintering

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Ok, I treated the soil with a fungicide, with the hope for the best, I will leave it until spring and during the repotting I will revise the roots.
 

leatherback

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Okay... but why has everyone switched from traditional soil to inorganic substrates in the last 20 years?
The coarse, open substrate makes it easy to deal with watering. Water as much as you want, effectively, for 90% of the species. The roots will not sit in wet muck, will therefor not drown and die. The denser the substrate particles are packed, the more water stays around untill you reach saturation. Regular potting soil has the problem that it compresses and as such creates a pore-poor substrate by itself already: Airless muck
 
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Spring is very close, many of my trees have begun to react to heat and the buds swell. But the Beech is still dormant. Should I wait for the buds to swell before repotting?
I think it has root problems and a well-draining substrate should fix this. Just in case, I watered the substrate with a fungicide in the winter to stop any rot.
 

leatherback

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Just in case, I watered the substrate with a fungicide in the winter to stop any rot.
Fungus is not the cause of the problems. In fact, one could argue that -they right- fungi are part of the solution.
Provide the right growing conditions. During repot, remove unhealthy roots. And let it settle.
 

penumbra

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Spring is very close, many of my trees have begun to react to heat and the buds swell. But the Beech is still dormant. Should I wait for the buds to swell before repotting?
Beech are late sleepers and it is likely to be your last tree to leaf out (unless you have Crepe Myrtle). I would not repot now unless you can provide for protection from freezing. I am a bit warmer here, but not by much. My beeches will be slumbering awhile still. It was near 80F yesterday but will be 20F Saturday night. No hurry to work on my beech.
 
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I would not repot now unless you can provide for protection from freezing.
Well, I can protect it from freezing after 1-2 weeks, when there are stable positive temperatures. I usually repot when I see signs of activity, but I'm afraid that if I put it off for a long time (considering that the beeches wake up last), I may worsen the root system condition.
 

penumbra

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Well, I can protect it from freezing after 1-2 weeks, when there are stable positive temperatures. I usually repot when I see signs of activity, but I'm afraid that if I put it off for a long time (considering that the beeches wake up last), I may worsen the root system condition.
I would wait but I can see it might be a crap shoot in your case.
 
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This is a photo of the roots that I took when repotting. There were not so many rotten roots, but in general the root system is not very strong, the roots are long "threads" growing at the bottom, with a small number of thin suction roots.
Roots forming nebari have a small number of thin roots, so I limited myself to a small pruning of long roots and give it a 1-2 full seasons in aerated substrate.
 

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Well... About a month has passed since the repotting and I don't observe bud break. Some of the branches look alive (judging by the annual shoots of a greenish color), some are dead. The buds still have a winter look.
Is it still too early for him to wake up or is he trying to redistribute energy and maybe wake up later?
 
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penumbra

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I have 5 varieties of European beech and they are one of the last things to leaf out. Buds are swelling but none have leafed out yet. Also, I think you repotted yours too early. Beech roots are sensitive to freezing temps.
I can't make a call about yours except to wait and see. Good luck but don't hold your breath.
 
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