You using the "Q" word. It is almost always counter-productive to to ends of bonsai to grow quick or big. What are you willing to forego? Taper? Clean trunks without big scars? Ramification? Compact root system? If none of those are important then you can go out and buy landscaping stock right now and not need to go through the hassle of the next 5 or 10 years. Growers of landscape stock have exactly what you are talking about because there is a commercial price window they have to live with and they need plants as big as possible within that window to meet the competition's price & delivery. They are already better at it than you. If on the other hand if you want as much bonsai as possible ASAP, then there's a pretty standard procedure.
To my way of thinking you want to preserve as much wood as possible instead of grow big, chop, grow big, chop, over and over again. You need to have a goal size for any given species. If your goal is to have a 24" Redwood that has nice nebari, taper, ramification, a compact root system that fits a given pot size & shape, and no big scars on the trunk, then here's one way:
1.) The temperature of the ground doesn't vary as much as the air, and the moisture levels are also more steady. That helps trees handle higher temperatures, and more sun & wind and grow better in the ground than on a bench.
2.) You want to arrive at a finished tree with a potful of tiny, hairy feeder roots and not a pot full of heavy anchor roots with the feeder roots out at the ends and need to go through a growing period of a couple years to get the root system into the finished pot of your choice. After each root-pruning, growth in the ground increases every year the tree is in the ground. The first year is a recovery year and the pot will fill with fine roots, the second year grows twice as much and the third year more than the second year, too much more in that third summer. The first year will fill a pot with nice roots. In the second year some roots will escape through the drain holes and there will be more heavy anchor roots in the pot at the expense of tiny feeder roots, and there will be lots of feeder roots at the ends of the anchor roots that escaped through the drain holes. By the end of the third year there will be nothing but heavy anchor roots in the pot and all the useful feeder roots will be outside the pot. So, you repot in spring, grow for two summers, and repot every second spring to get the benefit of as much controlled growth and as few of the disadvantages of heavy growth. Without a pot the roots grow in all directions, but straight out beyond useful limits.
3.) The nature of trees is to reach the top of the forest canopy ASAP. So, straight trunks without any lower branches is the norm. To overcome apical dominance you need to short-cut the process on a continuous basis. To obtain taper we need to have branches growing close to the bottom and with each ascending branch having less foliage than the branch below it. That is the opposite way that trees grow which is why they have straight bare trunks in a forest. By themselves in the middle of a meadow the same tree will have long heavy branches near the ground and have a more pyramidal profile. You will need enough surrounding room to be able to kneel or otherwise get down to ground level a couple times a year for shape pruning and for room for the lower branches to grow without interference.
Pinching supposedly slows growth, I think that's debatable. It doesn't matter one way or the other because what you can accomplish with it is more important. When you pinch a terminal bud, growth occurs somewhere else. When you keep the foliage on the upper third of the tree reduced, the growth will be diverted to the lower parts of the tree.
See post #6. You will want to keep as many lower branches as possible until they are more than 1/2" in diameter to maintain a place for growth to occur in response to your pinching and pruning the upper tree. Cutting them off at 1/2" or less will keep the scars to a minimum. It will take more than just pinching to accomplish keeping the top small enough to be in proportion. You will also need to remove whole branches near the top. That will be easy enough because that's where a lot of new buds will grow on the trunk. You can do some of that during the summer, but most will be done in autumn when you shorten the tree by (approximately) the expected next year's growth,keeping in mind that you will control the growth and not let the top get too tall, or heavy with foliage. The branches on the middle 1/3 of the trunk are treated the same as the upper third except they can be allowed to grow bigger (than at the top) before being removed, when and if you have a replacement already in-process near the branch you are removing. You want to arrive at the finished tree with branches that are largest at the lowest level and are gradually shorter and thinner as they ascend the trunk. You can slow down or increase the growth rate of a given branch by pinching more or pinching less as time passes. During this whole process you will not prune the tree to look good, you only prune to manage balanced growth. Towards the end of the process that reverses.
This procedure will have you throwing away grams of tips, twigs and small branches and over time growing 10 lbs of wood and keeping 8 lbs. The chop and grow method will have you growing 25 lbs and throwing away 17 lbs and accruing a lot of big scars.
The nebari will be just like any other tree that can grow straight down into friendly soil, so like a telephone pole. To make the roots turn and grow sideways you need to have something like a tile or board under the crown of the tree, and eliminate the tap root early in the process. So initially, the pot needs to be deeper by the thickness of the board or tile. After the roots are established growing sideways you can switch to the finished size pot.
I've probably forgotten some things, but I'll add them when you or I get to them.