Juniperific
Seedling
I have a Fukien Tea and wondering if I should get a moisture meter. More concerned about overwatering this than underwater.
Should I get a moisture meter?
- Thread starter Juniperific
- Start date
Beng
Omono
You can just move a little of the surface soil and see if it's moist beneath. Or if your really concerned a cheap bamboo chopstick from a local chinese, thai, or sushi restaurant.
edprocoat
Masterpiece
I would buy the most expensive moisture meter money could buy if I had your money to spend !
Otherwise, if I were spending my own money I would opt for the chopstick, or just watch it to see when it starts to dry and water until its saturated and draining out the hole at the bottom.
ed
Otherwise, if I were spending my own money I would opt for the chopstick, or just watch it to see when it starts to dry and water until its saturated and draining out the hole at the bottom.
ed
A Random User
Guest
- Messages
- 3,554
- Reaction score
- 4,269
Personally I feel a moisture meter does not allow you
to learn the basics of what your tree needs and how
to properly water... If this makes any sense.
Besides then you become dependant upon a machine
and what happens if broken or lost ???
Tea's like with most plants that have leaves, will begin
to wilt when they need water... This is, the leaves will
begin to sag and not fluff out.
I would suggest that you water your plant, and count
the days between it and when the leaves begin to sag.
Careful though because if outside this can happen rather
fast, so you must pay attention to it !!! When you figure
out what the time is between, water one day before.
to learn the basics of what your tree needs and how
to properly water... If this makes any sense.
Besides then you become dependant upon a machine
and what happens if broken or lost ???
Tea's like with most plants that have leaves, will begin
to wilt when they need water... This is, the leaves will
begin to sag and not fluff out.
I would suggest that you water your plant, and count
the days between it and when the leaves begin to sag.
Careful though because if outside this can happen rather
fast, so you must pay attention to it !!! When you figure
out what the time is between, water one day before.
M. Frary
Bonsai Godzilla
Sound advice on using a chopstick as a dipstick. Since bonsai are in shallow pots most times I like to use a wooden toothpick. It doesn't disturb the soil or roots as much.
GrimLore
Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
Honest I don't see any need for a meter outdoors or indoors here. Most of our trees get the same attention as they are all planted in similar medium. When the tropical are indoors for the winter a piece of moss in a small clay pot tells us when to mist/water. What first comes to mind with a meter is you need to know the plant requirements first for it to be of any use and that being said a meter is no longer needed.
Whether or not you get a soil moisture meter really depends on the application you are planning to use it. For example, I use this soil moisture meter but only because I am an avid gardener and have a lot of plants that I tend to. I have to be able to accurately monitor each area of the garden so I can effectively grow all the different plants I have. In your case however, with just monitoring one plant, although you COULD get a meter and it wouldn't hurt, you probably are ok just monitoring it with your finger, or like some others said, a chopstick/toothpick...
qwade
Shohin
Yes i used them. However for the soils I currently use for my trees they do not do there job. I use a nice mix from a member here. Bonsai Jack. My Tropicals as well as all my others have been thriving. At first glance his soils may seem to be a little high. But do the math. At least in NJ they seem to be inline considering the ag factor in this area. Anyway got a little lost there. The meter will not work in this type of recommended soil.
Redwood Ryan
Masterpiece
Thanks for reviving a two year old thread...
qwade
Shohin
And that statement adds to the discussion/thread how?????. Seems to be a sarcastic statement of no value. Please advise as to your meaning.
coh
Imperial Masterpiece
It's a common refrain around here whenever someone posts on a thread that's been inactive for a year or two. I don't understand why some object to this practice...why start yet another thread on a topic if there is an old one available.
qwade
Shohin
Redwood Ryan
Masterpiece
Yes that's exactly what I'm doing, I'm demeaning the poster that hasn't been seen in two years. Forgive me.
Redwood Ryan
Masterpiece
I'm usually all for bringing up old threads when the original poster is still around and when it's about a subject that hasn't been beaten repetitively.
Eric Group
Masterpiece
Two years old or not... I always like to chime in on these watering discussions to caution new people: ERROR ON THE SIDE OF OVER WATERING! Unless you just absolutely DROWN your tree to death (this is hard to do for most), the most common side effect of over watering is more rapid growth. The most common/ unavoidable side effect to a tree that does not get enough water is DEATH. INSTANT, IRREVERSIBLE DEATH. So, decide for yourself. Do you want a tree that is a little shaggy and needs a hair cut a little more often, or do you want a DEAD tree?
This is my recurring public service announcement and especially relevant amid this brutal heat wave we are suffering through in my area currently.
Here is where I get long in the tooth, so skip all this crap if you already got the point!
Opt for free draining soil, and water OFTEN. More often than you think you should need to... If the soil is free draining, it is difficult to over water! Water thoroughly.. Watering is not just about getting the roots wet, it is about air exchange and vacating old, "stale" air from the soil by flushing the soil completely with water. So, water til it is running out the bottom of the pot (what's that? No holes in your pot? FAIL- get a new pot NOW or drill some damn holes in it!!), wait a minute and water again... Rot occurs from stagnant/stale air allowing bacteria and all those nasties to grow in a stagnant environment without consistent flushing and replacing the air. Daily watering is not necessary when the trees are dormant- colder temps and the much reduced water uptake from roots means they simply don't need much water.
Heat and WIND combined are killers. I had an Elm shrivel up on me last week that had been watered at around 6:00 AM by my sprinklers... I got home for lunch around noon (always do some watering on my lunch break) and it was a complete crispy critter already- been soaking in a tray of water ever since, hoping it will come back... Not looking so good so far! This time of year- EVERY TREE gets water EVERY DAY- usually 2-3 times a day for most. Regardless of species, potting mix they are in, location (sun/ shade...) 100+ temps just fry them right up if they aren't kept at least moist... Some have to literally be kept in trays of water. Root rot has never been an issue for any of my trees and I have watered on This type of schedule for... At least three years now! Prior to moving to this, I lost multiple trees every summer and I finally realized I was trying to "keep from watering on a schedule/ avoid OVER watering"... It was tree murder. I had a misting sprinkler system that would get stuff kind of wet on a schedule for me, but it just gave me a false sense of security that my trees were watered enough when they weren't! No substitute for a watering wand/ can and hitting every tree yourself by hand every day.
This is my recurring public service announcement and especially relevant amid this brutal heat wave we are suffering through in my area currently.
Here is where I get long in the tooth, so skip all this crap if you already got the point!
Opt for free draining soil, and water OFTEN. More often than you think you should need to... If the soil is free draining, it is difficult to over water! Water thoroughly.. Watering is not just about getting the roots wet, it is about air exchange and vacating old, "stale" air from the soil by flushing the soil completely with water. So, water til it is running out the bottom of the pot (what's that? No holes in your pot? FAIL- get a new pot NOW or drill some damn holes in it!!), wait a minute and water again... Rot occurs from stagnant/stale air allowing bacteria and all those nasties to grow in a stagnant environment without consistent flushing and replacing the air. Daily watering is not necessary when the trees are dormant- colder temps and the much reduced water uptake from roots means they simply don't need much water.
Heat and WIND combined are killers. I had an Elm shrivel up on me last week that had been watered at around 6:00 AM by my sprinklers... I got home for lunch around noon (always do some watering on my lunch break) and it was a complete crispy critter already- been soaking in a tray of water ever since, hoping it will come back... Not looking so good so far! This time of year- EVERY TREE gets water EVERY DAY- usually 2-3 times a day for most. Regardless of species, potting mix they are in, location (sun/ shade...) 100+ temps just fry them right up if they aren't kept at least moist... Some have to literally be kept in trays of water. Root rot has never been an issue for any of my trees and I have watered on This type of schedule for... At least three years now! Prior to moving to this, I lost multiple trees every summer and I finally realized I was trying to "keep from watering on a schedule/ avoid OVER watering"... It was tree murder. I had a misting sprinkler system that would get stuff kind of wet on a schedule for me, but it just gave me a false sense of security that my trees were watered enough when they weren't! No substitute for a watering wand/ can and hitting every tree yourself by hand every day.
coh
Imperial Masterpiece
Why does it matter? It's the information in the thread that is important, not who started it. Besides, most of the people who responded are still around and active on the forum, don't they count as well?
Careful, you're starting to sound like a certain nitwit who's been posting similar comments on other threads.
A moisture meter can provide useful information for various horticultural situations when used correctly but in terms of keeping a tree healthy I see it as a distraction from more important factors to consider as part of how you water.Factors such as the individual health of the tree, soil composition, and climate will dictate how to water. As others have mentioned, this is a learning process.
Last edited:
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
This comes up all the freakin time. Because of the specialized soils used in bonsai, typical moisture meters sold at big box stores that use a sensor to poke into the dirt WILL NOT WORK effectively or reliably. Those things rely on measurement of moisture suspended between soil particles. Because bonsai soil has HUGE spaces between soil particles, the meters will always read "Water me" That can and does lead to constant overwatering...
Donald Swafford
Seed
- Messages
- 1
- Reaction score
- 0
I have always kept a note book and kitchen scale to gauge the relative saturation of any plant it's worked for me for 40 years ... esp. c. Orchids ... you develope a feel for it ... I have the sunrise in morning for a long time of interaction with all my photosynthetic buddies ....
