What's it like to attend an Intensive program?

[Adair M]

I'm starting this thread as a discussion about bonsai education. In particular, the Intensive type of education where the student goes to the Master's location and works for a series of days on advanced material. These are usually a series where the student returns 3 or more times a year to do seasonal work, over a period of years.

It's the closest thing to being a bonsai apprentice as we have here in the USA.

I've been doing bonsai for 40 years. I started when I was 17. I saw a little trident maple at an Art Festival, and I've been hooked ever since. I took classes when I was in graduate school that taught me the basics of the styles, and took workshop from the traveling Masters when they came to town.

Two years ago, I stepped it up a notch. I learned about the Intensive series that Boon and Ryan were giving, and I decided that if I ever wanted to raise my bonsai skills, this was the time, and this was the way to do it. I chose Boon over Ryan because I am primarily interested in JBP, and that's Boon's specialty. Ryan's program (from what I've heard from two friends who attend them) is also excellent.

What happens? Class is from 8:30 until 6. We start with watching Japanese language videos of Kimura or other artists. Boon gives commentary about the species, and other insights as they occur on the video. Then, Boon has handouts of educational material about wiring, propogating, styling, etc. We go over these in detail. After lunch is when we actually work on the trees. It's seasonal work.

Classes range for 4 to 6 students. Everyone gets lots of one on one instruction. There will be a range of student experience: For some, it will be their first Intensive. For others, they may still be in their first year, or well on into the program. Boon personalizes the experience for each student. Those that are veterans will work on more advanced material. Newcomers, less so, or will be given less advanced work to do.

For me, my first Intensive was the fall class, and my first task was taking the wire off a highly refined JBP we call "Godzilla". It's huge. The trunk is as big around as my thigh. But only about 2 feet tall. Tons and tons of branches and twigs, and every one was detail wired. I was honored to work on it! And I got my first reprimand from Boon: I was told to remove the wire. So I reached for my trusty Masakuni wire cutters I've had for 40 years, and started cutting the wire in little chunks to remove. Uh, no, that's not the way Boon wanted me to do it. He wanted me to grab the wire with my jin pliers, and unspiral it. "But, Boon, this is the way Naka told me to do it, 40 years ago!", I said. Oh, boy, did I ever step in it! I was told in no uncertain way that I had "been doing it wrong!" for 40 years! LOL!!! My first lesson! Boon had said something about unspiraling it off, but I hadn't listened, thinking I already knew how to remove wire.

I now unspiral my wire. Lesson 1.

There's a reason. He didn't say it that day, it was either later in that Intensive, or maybe at another (when another newbie tried cutting off the wire) when I heard the reason for unwinding it. Boon was an apprentice in Japan, and he, too, cut off wire when his Master told him to unwind it. Boon said he was sure he could remove it safely by cutting it. Well, he did. And then the Master came to inspect it, and found a little chunk of wire that had been stuck in the crotch of a branch. Unwrapping it gets all the wire and doesn't leave any in a crotch.

Really big wire, does have to be cut off, we're talking about the smaller gauges here.

I'll more post more, later. My wife says I've been on the Internet long enough!

 

[coh]

Looking forward to hearing more about your experience.

During Bill V's symposium last year, Ryan Neil did a presentation on wiring and said the same thing about removing wire (he unwinds it except for the heaviest gauges), so the message is consistent there.

Chris

 

[Smoke]

Does Boon any Ryan grow their material from seed and cuttings?

Could I expect to learn the aspects of growing bonsai from those mediums and If I could, how many intensives and how many years would I need to go?

In an intensive will I learn the aspects of choosing material from Home Depot and how to make a great tree from them?

After I have spent 10,000 dollars on intensives what sums of money will I need to spend on material to make my new education pay off?

 

[larlamonde]

I'm starting this thread as a discussion about bonsai education. In particular, the Intensive type of education where the student goes to the Master's location and works for a series of days on advanced material. These are usually a series where the student returns 3 or more times a year to do seasonal work, over a period of years.

It's the closest thing to being a bonsai apprentice as we have here in the USA.

I've been doing bonsai for 40 years. I started when I was 17. I saw a little trident maple at an Art Festival, and I've been hooked ever since. I took classes when I was in graduate school that taught me the basics of the styles, and took workshop from the traveling Masters when they came to town.

Two years ago, I stepped it up a notch. I learned about the Intensive series that Boon and Ryan were giving, and I decided that if I ever wanted to raise my bonsai skills, this was the time, and this was the way to do it. I chose Boon over Ryan because I am primarily interested in JBP, and that's Boon's specialty. Ryan's program (from what I've heard from two friends who attend them) is also excellent.

What happens? Class is from 8:30 until 6. We start with watching Japanese language videos of Kimura or other artists. Boon gives commentary about the species, and other insights as they occur on the video. Then, Boon has handouts of educational material about wiring, propogating, styling, etc. We go over these in detail. After lunch is when we actually work on the trees. It's seasonal work.

Classes range for 4 to 6 students. Everyone gets lots of one on one instruction. There will be a range of student experience: For some, it will be their first Intensive. For others, they may still be in their first year, or well on into the program. Boon personalizes the experience for each student. Those that are veterans will work on more advanced material. Newcomers, less so, or will be given less advanced work to do.

For me, my first Intensive was the fall class, and my first task was taking the wire off a highly refined JBP we call "Godzilla". It's huge. The trunk is as big around as my thigh. But only about 2 feet tall. Tons and tons of branches and twigs, and every one was detail wired. I was honored to work on it! And I got my first reprimand from Boon: I was told to remove the wire. So I reached for my trusty Masakuni wire cutters I've had for 40 years, and started cutting the wire in little chunks to remove. Uh, no, that's not the way Boon wanted me to do it. He wanted me to grab the wire with my jin pliers, and unspiral it. "But, Boon, this is the way Naka told me to do it, 40 years ago!", I said. Oh, boy, did I ever step in it! I was told in no uncertain way that I had "been doing it wrong!" for 40 years! LOL!!! My first lesson! Boon had said something about unspiraling it off, but I hadn't listened, thinking I already knew how to remove wire.

I now unspiral my wire. Lesson 1.

There's a reason. He didn't say it that day, it was either later in that Intensive, or maybe at another (when another newbie tried cutting off the wire) when I heard the reason for unwinding it. Boon was an apprentice in Japan, and he, too, cut off wire when his Master told him to unwind it. Boon said he was sure he could remove it safely by cutting it. Well, he did. And then the Master came to inspect it, and found a little chunk of wire that had been stuck in the crotch of a branch. Unwrapping it gets all the wire and doesn't leave any in a crotch.

Really big wire, does have to be cut off, we're talking about the smaller gauges here.

I'll more post more, later. My wife says I've been on the Internet long enough!

Thanks, love to hear more.

 

[markyscott]

I know you're being facetious, but...

Does Boon any Ryan grow their material from seed and cuttings

Boon yes, some of it. A lot of his pines in development are from Lone Pine - they are field grown from seedling. Ryan, I don't know.

Could I expect to learn the aspects of growing bonsai from those mediums and If I could, how many intensives and how many years would I need to go?

Yes. And as many as you need, I suppose. The full curriculum is 10 classes, but most never finish. I think he just graduated his 25th. But he does teach how to grow from seedlings.

In an intensive will I learn the aspects of choosing material from Home Depot and how to make a great tree from them?

You will learn elements of design and styling and get help in developing an artistic sensitivity that will allow you to go to Home Depot with a more discriminating eye for quality. You won't work on many Home Depot trees, but he does have a lot of rough, field grown stock that you will work on, though. When he's worked in my garden, he has never sneered or snickered at any of my cheap material, but he has helped me to make it better.

After I have spent 10,000 dollars on intensives what sums of money will I need to spend on material to make my new education pay off?

None, I suppose. I've bought a few high end trees, but I work primarily with collected and nursery stock. Going to an intensive doesn't mean you have to buy a $10,000 tree, does it? And a three day intensive is $575. I like going, but they're not for everyone. And they don't cost $10,000.

Scott

 

[Adair M]

Smoke, I'll answer some of your idiotic questions first.

No, we don't take field trips to Home Depot.

Yes, he does root cuttings. From seed? I don't know. He does take air layers. He grafts onto yamadori. I don't know if he's collected from the wild or not, I know he's been up to visit the trees where they grow. He depends upon expert collectors to do that. He also purchases trees from Jim Gremel and Lone Pine nursery. I'm sure there's others.

The cost to attend? His fee is $575 for the three days, and that includes two meals. There are 10 sessions. (3 a year for 3 years, and 1 special show session.) So that would be $5750 spread over 3 years. Not cheap. But there is no requirement for anyone to complete the whole thing. I think there are 24 current "graduates". There are many more who have taken some but not all the classes.

More later.

 

[markyscott]

Smoke, I'll answer some of your idiotic questions first.

No, we don't take field trips to Home Depot.

Yes, he does root cuttings. From seed? I don't know. He does take air layers. He grafts onto yamadori. I don't know if he's collected from the wild or not, I know he's been up to visit the trees where they grow. He depends upon expert collectors to do that. He also purchases trees from Jim Gremel and Lone Pine nursery. I'm sure there's others.

The cost to attend? His fee is $575 for the three days, and that includes two meals. There are 10 sessions. (3 a year for 3 years, and 1 special show session.) So that would be $5750 spread over 3 years. Not cheap. But there is no requirement for anyone to complete the whole thing. I think there are 24 current "graduates". There are many more who have taken some but not all the classes.

More later.

Those really cool, exposed root black pine are all from seed. His shohin, twisted trunk shimpaku are from cutting, both by him and Gremel.

Scott

 

[johng]

ok...i'll bite... why is better to remove wire by unwinding?

 

[jkd2572]

My teacher is a boon graduate. The purpose of unwinding wire is so you don't leave any by accident. Funny story. While taking a class offered by my teacher she told me to unwind the wire don't cut it off. I broke a branch doing so. I resume cutting off wire and being careful to search the tree for any left behind...... That might just be me performing tasked too quickly.

 

[johng]

I unwind most aluminum and smaller diameter copper. The very nature of copper wire, the fact that it work hardens, makes unwinding likely to lead to exactly jkd's experience..broken branches, damaged bark...seems very unnecessary and potentially damaging to your trees..to be an "always".

and for the record...it makes no difference whether I unwind or cut off wire...I always find a couple pieces later

 

[coh]

I think one of Ryan's reasons was that unwinding eliminated the risk of damaging branches with the wire cutters. But I don't have any reasons written down in my notes, just the fact that he recommended unwinding.

 

[Eric Group]

I generally use more aluminum wire than copper, mostly smaller gauges and I have had pretty bad experiences unwinding it personally. Broken branches, torn bark.. Lots of damage! If it is biting into the bark, you kind of HAVE to unwind it or you really will cut into the bark- at least do the up unwinding in the tightest parts, but the branch has pretty much already been damaged at that point so to guess it doesn't matter so much.

 

[Adair M]

There's a technique to everything...

Unwinding wire, use Jin plyers. Hold the branch and wire one coil back with the other hand.grab the end of the wire with the Jin plyers. Boon teaches to leave a little "fish hook" at the end of the wire when wiring, so grab that. Spin the plyers around as if you were turning a screw driver. As the wire unwraps, move the "other" hand back to expose another wrap.

Obviously, start with the smallest wire first, then progressively work back to the larger wires.

Like any physical skill, it takes practice. And the more you do it, the better you get at it.

Boon saves the spent copper wire in a cardboard box, which he sells back to a metal recycler.

Some people are able to reuse aluminum since it doesn't work harden as much.

Oh, when you are at Boon's, he provides the wire. I have heard that Ryan makes you use your own wire. I may be wrong about that, but that's what I heard.

 

[Adair M]

Reasons for unwiring: You won't leave little shards in the tree. You won't leave little shards on the soil. You can damage the tree when trying to cut the wires into chunks, even using the flat tip bonsai wire cutters. I have noticed (back when I used to cut wire off) that even using my Masakuni wire cutters that when I cut a coil, sometimes the chunk of wire would twist as I cut it, and if it were cut into the branch, it would sometimes drag along the bark, causing damage. Uncoiling as per the above post allows the wire to separate from the tree and bark straight up.

 

[coh]

I have noticed (back when I used to cut wire off) that even using my Masakuni wire cutters that when I cut a coil, sometimes the chunk of wire would twist as I cut it, and if it were cut into the branch, it would sometimes drag along the bark, causing damage.

I've had this happen as well. Figured it was just bad technique but maybe not?

 

[Adair M]

Back to the Intensive Class...

Boon has a workshop behind his house. And behind that is his garden. And, oh my, what a garden it is. I cannot describe how jaw dropping it is when you first see it. He does mostly conifers, so you see a sea of pines and junipers. Jonas has some pictures on his blog "Bonsai Tonight". Whenever we take a break from the active instruction/work, most of us gravitate to the trees and study them. There are trees of all styles, and trees in various stages of training. Some finished masterpieces, of course, some untouched raw stock awaiting the Master's touch. And everything in between.

Most of the trees are Boon's but many are owned by Boon's students and clients. I myself have 5 trees there. One of Boon's clients has two tables full!

Boon has an automatic watering system for those times when he's away. He has an apprentice to help him, too. He still hand waters, as well.

Most of the garden is open to full sun. He has a greenhouse for tropicals, and an area with 30 percent shade cloth, mostly for the maples.

Part of the learning experience is to see how the trees change over time. Since I'm there 3 times a year, the seasonal changes are really dramatic. My own trees change/grow a little every day. I really don't see much change in them day to day. (Taking pictures, helps.) But at Boon's it really shows. Let's say I decandle a pine in June. When I come back at the end of October, it has fully grown the second flush of candles, and is ready for bud selection, needle pulling and wiring. Such a change to see a fully grown out tree when it looked much like Charlie Brown's Christmas Tree last June.

 

[Poink88]

Thanks for sharing. It actually cost less than I thought. Of course the travel costs add up too.

How much does he charge per tree that you leave there?

 

[Adair M]

Back to the work at the Intensive...

We've discussed the unwiring lesson. Once that was done, and on Godzilla, it took me well over an hour just to take the wire off, it was on to needle pulling.

Oh... may I interrupt myself here? Thanks...

Boon also got onto me for the way I used my hands when working with JBP. Seems I had been doing it wrong all my life. I had no idea! No one had ever told me! Let me explain...

One of Boon's Pet Peeves (and I think all Japanese Masters) are broken pine needles. If you bend a pine needle too much, it breaks the little spine inside it, and the tip will die and turn brown. Problem is, you don't even know you've done it until about two weeks later, and suddenly you see brown tips on your needles. Again, I was totally clueless. And there, I'd been doing bonsai for 40 years, totally clueless about broken pine needles!

So, never let someone touch your pines!

Here's how to touch pine trees: From underneath. Palm facing up. Not palm down. With your palm up, your palm will be under the branches, not really touching the needles, since the needles grow up. If you need to manipulate the branches, slip your fingers up from below the branch and move the twigs around. That way, you don't touch the sharp tips. It's when you push down on the sharp tips that the needle could bend and break. So, if you feel the needles pricking you, you're "doing it wrong"!

How about if you need to do something from up above as well as from down under? Boon often uses large straight tip tweezers for this. They'll slip right in between the buds so he can carefully push foliage this way and that. Watching Boon do this is like watching a surgeon at work. If you need fingers in there, well, you don't just stick your whole hand in there, no, just the finger and thumb, and hold those others out. Watch Bjorn and Owen style trees in their video series "The Bonsai Art of Japan" on YouTube.

Ok, so that was another of my 40 year old bad habits. (Poor Boon! He had to watch me like a hawk!)

Needle pulling. OMG. On Godzilla! (Another aside... Godzilla is a "rite of passage" tree. It's fantastic. One of the most amazing JBP I've ever seen. Huge. Which means it's a huge amount of work! At first everyone is proud to be able to work on Godzilla. I was. But what I found is it will wear you out! So now, when Boon hauls up Godzilla to be worked, all of us experienced guys are praying "I hope I don't get Godzilla, I hope I don't get Godzilla..." LOL!!!)

Needle pulling is done in the fall to remove all of the previous year's needles. Except for the very weakest interior branches. (Unless the tree is going to be shown in the winter. If it is going to be shown, leave the old needles so the tree looks full for the show, then pull the needles after the show. Got it? Good.)

This kind of needle pulling, the fall work needle pulling cleans up a refined tree. It opens up the foliage to let sunlight in to the interior of the tree. The sunlight hopefully will stimulate old dormant adventitious buds to grow, thus keeping foliage close to the trunk.

Of course, there is a technique. Fortunately for me, I had not really understood needle pulling, so I hadn't done it. Much. I had seen it on Boon's DVD series, so I had a clue, but at least it was from Boon's teaching. We use straight tip serrated tweezers, grab each needle pair right at the base where it joins the twig, bend it back to kinda break it loose, then pull straight out in the direction the needles were growing. Got it? Yeah, right! Now, repeat for the next needle pair. Get all the old ones.

A tree like Godzilla probably has 10,000 pairs of needles on it. (I have no clue actually, but you get the idea.) A huge amount of work. Oh, be sure to start at the top! Why? Because as you work, you pull a needle pair, drop it, and pull the next one. When you drop it, where does it go? On the ground? On the pot? Or just lower down on the tree? A lot just land lower on the tree. If you started at the bottom, you'd get the bottom branches done, and then as you worked up, you'd be dropping needles on the area you just cleaned! Starting at the top and working down, you end up with a clean tree when you're done. Except for the soil is covered with pulled needles!

Bud Selection: It's a separate task, but can be done at the same time as needle pulling. If you're good.

On refined trees, we likely decandled back in the summer. Which means that in the fall, where we decandled, we will likely have one, two, three, or more new smaller candles that regrew from the place we cut the original spring candle. Our goal is to keep two new candles at each tip. So, if we only got one, obviously we keep it. If we got two, we keep both. If we got three, then we need to cut one off, keeping two. Boon instructs up how to make the selection. (Too much detail for this post!) Likewise for 4 or more. Just keep 2.

Sometimes areas get too crowded. Think of it: Year one decandle get 2 new buds. Year two, we have 4. Year three, we have 8 buds! That's a lot! So, we have to thin out, cut back. This is advanced work. When I found places that needed this treatment, I'd call for Boon's help. And he'd show me how to select what needed to be cut out. It's unfortunately difficult to describe, you have to be there.

So, I pulled needles in an area, then did the bud selection. After 3 hours of back breaking tedious work on Godzilla, I was only half done. I was loving every minute of it, but it's exhausting. Fortunately, Sam, a third year student came over to help me. Him being more experienced could do the job twice as fast as me. Between the two of us, we finished up in another hour. I have a picture of me sitting next to Godzilla, job completed. I'm wore out. Godzilla is sitting there, laughing at me!

Then we went to dinner.

At the dinner table, I realize my hands were black with pine sap.

There's a technique for removing that, too!

More later...

 

[Vance Wood]

Looking forward to hearing more about your experience.

During Bill V's symposium last year, Ryan Neil did a presentation on wiring and said the same thing about removing wire (he unwinds it except for the heaviest gauges), so the message is consistent there.

Chris

I have always unwound the wire even when I had people telling me I should be cutting it off.

 

[markyscott]

Thanks for sharing. It actually cost less than I thought. Of course the travel costs add up too.

How much does he charge per tree that you leave there?

Plane ticket on ff miles and I attend with friends with to keep expenses down. I can't make it there three times a year, but I generally go once or twice and he works with me in my garden for a day or two a couple times a year.

$10/month/tree.

Worth every penny to me.

Scott