How is babby (forest) formed?

sparklemotion

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I have a bunch of coffea arabica (coffee tree) seedlings (maybe saplings -- 2-3mm diameter trunks, 6-8" tall) and a deficiency of patience.

I want to play around with some kind of forest/saikei/penjing creation with them. Here they are, artistically angled and all.

IMG_20171118_134055.jpg

I'm ok with the fact that they will probably die, but let's pretend that they don't. Assuming that I'll want my "final" tree spacing to seem appropriate given the size of the trunks in a few years, how much allowance should I make for growth when I place them now?

I know that going into a bonsai pot will stunt them. But I'll definitely be spreading them out more than they are in their current 4" pot. I haven't 100% decided on a container, but I'm leaning towards a 12" wide, 1.5" deep plastic saucer (modified as required for drainage/tie downs).

I'm leaning towards giving them a fair amount of space now, because worst case, I can add trees later. If I bunch them up and they do beef up some, I'll have more of a clump than a forest.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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Ah, interesting problems.

I am no expert in forest plantings, but have read, seen, in person watched others make a forest or two. And have seen a fair number at shows. So I'm no expert, but will offer what advice I can.

Often, forests are made from trees grown separately, that are then planted together. Often the forest arrangements are assembled, grown for a number of years as a forest, then after perhaps 5 to 10 years the forest is partially or even completely disassembled. Then reassembled, with the same trees or some new and some old trees. It is only a minority of forest plantings that are kept permanently together in the exact same positions for many decades. There will always be issues of one tree becoming out of proportion with the others, either growing ahead or lagging behind, even the odd dead tree can happen. So it is probably best to think of a forest as a continually evolving arrangement, that will never become completely static. Forests do need regular repotting, and every time they are repotted the arrangement of trees can be adjusted.

So with your little forest, plant them to make an attractive forest as they are now, when in a couple years, you repot them down the road, you can adjust and spread them out as needed, to make an attractive arrangement at the time you repot them. It take a long time for trees to actually fuse together, you will usually be able to make adjustments every time you repot. So get the group to look the way you want it now, and enjoy it.

Coffee trees, are naturally more shrub like. They don't "trunk up'' as quickly as Ficus, nor do leaves reduce as well, but they do grow reasonably well as indoor houseplants. They are attractive, nice glossy leaves, white flowers and nice red ''cherries'' that you can roast in your oven at home and brew up your own coffee. Really a pleasant plant to grow. In many ways their growth habit will remind you of gardenia and or camelia. They at least in theory, should make reasonably attractive bonsai, even if they don't refine as well as more traditional species.

White fly, mealy bug and thrips are the pests I would expect to be most common pest of coffee, easily treated with products sold through your local big box stores. Coffee likes a mildly acidic soil, much as for gardenia or azalea. Do not allow them to dry to the point of wilting. Because a pane of window glass filters out somewhere around 40% of the sunlight, indoors give them the brightest window possible, outdoors give them part shade to full but bright shade.

Now, to prune or not prune, wire and other bonsai techniques? Answer, next chapter
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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Think about what type of image you want to create, and what can be done with your choice of species. A cluster of trunks, relatively slender trunks, not too tall, in a tray with wide area of moss around it, will look more like a distant grove on a hill. Implying the observer is far away. Larger diameter and taller trees, with trunks that are planted right up to the margins of the pot, suggest the observer is standing closer to the forest, or might even be in the forest. Also think about the age or type of forest you want to portray, gnarly trees with fat trunks, suggest an ancient forest. tall elegant trees, suggest a more middle aged forest, and thin but dense arrangement of younger trees would suggest a second growth type young forest. Think about what you want to create.

Coffee, because of the glossy leaves, myself would go for the distant young forest while young, each leaf representing a whole pad of foliage and branches seen from a distance. You can pretty much with a little imagination make these seedlings now work for this type of forest.

Or as the trunks pick up size, get closer to an inch in diameter, I would go for a close up feeling tall elegant forest. I do not think coffee will do gnarly very well. It is just not in the plant's habit. I could be wrong, but these are my thoughts. For this look, I would consider growing the seedlings out, in separate pots, One per pot, some grouped in twos or threes, the grouped trees very close together in a pot, until they were several feet tall, in order to thicken up the trunks. The idea being the grouped ones will fuse more quickly to be treated as a single root system. Then after a couple years, the trunks will have thickened up a bit, prune them back down to size and assemble the forest of the groups from the pots you grew out. This will give nice irregular spacing. Key to creating forests is to avoid them looking like rows of corn. Irregularity is key.

If you are trying to increase trunk diameter to create size and age illusions, you must keep the tree growing rapidly and in a significantly large pot, so the roots have room and the tree can actually grow. Once the root system is confined, the tree slows its growth and the increase in trunk diameter will be significantly slowed. I have a pomegranate, that started out as a 1/8th diameter, 12 inch tall cutting, it was always kept in as small a bonsai pot I could fit it into. A full 40 years later, a long time to be watering a tree, it was all of 1 inch in diameter and 12 inches tall. If I had used nursery pots, or large grow out containers, or put it in the ground it could have been 4 inches or even 6 inches in diameter, but it was only 1 inch in diameter, still looked too skinny for a 12 inch tall tree. Point of this paragraph, once the roots are confined, the increasing growth in the diameter of the trunk slows to almost no growth at all. Pruning roots and pruning the top of the tree will also significantly slow the growth rates. Trees in bonsai pots do not ''bulk up''. Put them back into nursery pots or out in the ground to get significant growth.

I have seen descriptions of how some of the Japanese masters create forests. They will use a group of trees that have already been grown as bonsai for 25 to 75 years, and mix together these trees of different ages to create their forest plantings. Most of us in the USA don't have the ability to commit that kind of time to preparing to put together a forest. I have a Dawn redwood forest in the making. Right now it is in 2 anderson flats (17 x 17 x 5 inch deep pots) 4 trees in one and 5 trees in the other. They were 5 year old, 24 inch tall whip seedlings the first time the forest was put together, then the forest was taken apart after 2 years, now in its second summer of ''growing out'' again. I may put it back together again this next spring, if I like the development of the branches.

Here's a thought, looks like you have 8 seedlings, take 7 and make your forest when you get your tray. Take the one and see how large you can get it to grow in a separate pot. Grow it out like you were going to make a single tree bonsai. See how rapidly you can get it growing & how quickly it can trunk up. Based on how it responds, decide how far you want to dive into the forest projects. You need to get a feel for how coffee grows, branches, and responds to wiring to help you decide what designs you can create with coffee.

Hope that helps.
 
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sorce

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Wow. I am blown away by this detailed advice, you have given me lots to think about. I am really grateful for the time and thought that you put into these responses.

Thanks for thanking Leo!

I was expecting some coffee info and recieved....
Well...
They are attractive, nice glossy leaves, white flowers and nice red ''cherries'' that you can roast in your oven at home and brew up your own coffee.

Coffee info! (Should have known we eat these too!)
And much more!

I'm happy to hear they may make a decent group!

Nice!

Sorce
 

sparklemotion

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Coffee info! (Should have known we eat these too!)

For more coffee info, you should check out this guy's blog:

http://www.thanksgivingcoffee.com/category/growing-coffee-at-home/

The post on pruning is part of what makes me think that doing something bonsai-ish wouldn't be a total failure.

I am planning either setting one or two of these seedlings aside to just let grow, or I might go back to the nursery and pick up another bunch (they were $6.95). There is something cool about the idea of roasting my own coffee.
 

GrimLore

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