Reminder of the day.

This is my first try going for a full on cascade. It's gone through a couple steps but sadly i dont have any pictures, so im just going to start from here. The left most branch is going to follow the contour of the inner curve as it grows out to lead to the apex pad that will be raised from the main trunk some and pushed to the right so that trees apex will be over the lip of the final pot. The lowest pad is going to be brought more horizontal, be more on line with the one above it, once the 1st half of the trunk thinkens alittle more.
View attachment 260456

View attachment 260458

Here's acouple from the other side which both the wife and I feel has some style but is too busy for a good front.

View attachment 260464

View attachment 260465

I know the pads need work i wanted to leave enough to work with and it should grow into itself nicely. I more and welcome any advise on where to go from here.

View attachment 260468

View attachment 260469

View attachment 260470

I feel your tree needs more movement in the branches. Your wiring "wraps" need to be closer (less space between the wraps) the way you have it wired now you risk braking the branches if you try to bend them with sharp bends.
I would rewire them with closer wraps. When you bend the branches keep in mind the way you put on the wire and bend with the wire. If you bend against the wire the wire will loosen. Also be sure when you bend you have a coil behind the bend to support the branch from braking. Use pliers when needed they can help tremendously making bends and keeping the wire tight.

Also adding movement will make the tree more compact. The bends take up branch length bringing the ends closer to the trunk.


I tried to warn you in your other thread about the wiring and bending with a coil behind the bend to support the branch. If you leave that branch alone (no more movement) it should heal if you decide to keep it. But those points will always be weak from this point further.
 
I tried to warn you in your other thread about the wiring and bending with a coil behind the bend to support the branch. If you leave that branch alone (no more movement) it should heal if you decide to keep it. But those points will always be weak from this point further.
Yea i know, it was one of those getting to into it not thinking about what i was doing, it was the last one to go in place.
 
Winter dormancy is usually a safer time to wire hard bends since there is less water in the branches and they tend to not snap as easily.
 
Get yourself some old bicycle tubing, you know, that inner tire. Cheap and flexible, but strong enough to allow you to bend them a bit further without cracking.
Raffia works too, but that shit is hard to remove once your trees outgrow the wrapping. Rubber is more flexible.
 
Get yourself some old bicycle tubing, you know, that inner tire. Cheap and flexible, but strong enough to allow you to bend them a bit further without cracking.
Great idea!! I have a bunch of old tubes that I can cut into strips and wrap prior to wiring. Love it when a plan comes together!!
 
Any tips or anything i should know to give it it's best shot? Or just leave it as is?
 
Sorry that happened man, I hope you're able to fix it o so slowly. I wonder branch benders might help you in the future. At least on a tough corner you will know when it's going to snap before hand. They start to make cracking noises first when using them in my experience. Best of luck! 🖖🏻
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1468.jpg
    IMG_1468.jpg
    159.3 KB · Views: 23
Sorry that happened man, I hope you're able to fix it o so slowly. I wonder branch benders might help you in the future. At least on a tough corner you will know when it's going to snap before hand. They start to make cracking noises first when using them in my experience. Best of luck! 🖖🏻
I'll have to look i to it but I'll claim the fault on this one. It was the last one to be placed and got careless.
 
So in keeping with this as a progression thread and maybe help someone out there with a broken branch.

After reading up on it from different places, here included, I decided to go with trying a dot of superglue and leaving it wired to let it be held while it healed. I will make sure to keep this updated on how the healing goes.
20190903_201722.jpg

20190903_202003.jpg

20190903_201950.jpg

20190903_202744.jpg

20190903_201955.jpg

20190903_202828.jpg

20190903_202844.jpg
 
Part of your problem with snapping was the wire was too tightly coiled. Not as in pressed into the branch, but wrapped more like a spring. The wire should run along the branch more.

I know, ALL the books say to wrap at at 45 degree angle. They’re all wrong. It should be more of a 60 degree angle. Doing so, makes the wire less like a spring, and it holds better. This means your are less likely to over bend to get the bend to stay.

The other part of your problem us you used aluminum. Which doesn’t hold, so again, you overbend hoping that after you release the pressure the branch will relax into the position you want.

Well, that’s just a bad way to go about it. Use properly sized copper, you bend it, it stays. No overbending. No breaking of branches. More control.

Copper is superior to aluminum in every way when working with conifers.

And finally, that wire is too thin. Aluminum wire needs to be thicker to have enough holding power . Again. Causing you to over bend, breaking branches.
 
Part of your problem with snapping was the wire was too tightly coiled. Not as in pressed into the branch, but wrapped more like a spring. The wire should run along the branch more.

I know, ALL the books say to wrap at at 45 degree angle. They’re all wrong. It should be more of a 60 degree angle. Doing so, makes the wire less like a spring, and it holds better. This means your are less likely to over bend to get the bend to stay.

The other part of your problem us you used aluminum. Which doesn’t hold, so again, you overbend hoping that after you release the pressure the branch will relax into the position you want.

Well, that’s just a bad way to go about it. Use properly sized copper, you bend it, it stays. No overbending. No breaking of branches. More control.

Copper is superior to aluminum in every way when working with conifers.

And finally, that wire is too thin. Aluminum wire needs to be thicker to have enough holding power . Again. Causing you to over bend, breaking branches.
You are 100% right. Thank you. I did notice i was having to fight to get it. All of what you said makes perfect sence. And i just want to point out the fact that, you pulled that from the pic. Your good. o_O
 
You are 100% right. Thank you. I did notice i was having to fight to get it. All of what you said makes perfect sence. And i just want to point out the fact that, you pulled that from the pic. Your good. o_O
Dude, I’ve been doing bonsai for 50 years. This ain’t my first rodeo.
 
Back
Top Bottom