Boxwood repotting
- Thread starter kale
- Start date
penumbra
Imperial Masterpiece
I believe it would. Repot just prior to bud break. 100% Napa is probably just fine but it would not be my choice. I like some organics with my boxwood.
GSCarlson
Shohin
Are you also planning on reducing the foliage? I have a boxwood I bought in October of last year. I’m planning on just reducing the roots this spring, maybe 50%.
coachspinks
Chumono
Boxwoods are pretty forgiving, but If the roots are filling that pot, that is a lot to chop off at once. I would do it in two steps. I have several boxwoods in an inorganic mix and the are doing real well.
kale
Shohin
Sounds good. It was in a 5 gal when I got it so its not really filling the pot its in. I guess I’ll have to decide once I get it out of there and all the old soil cleaned off.
kale
Shohin
Yep I was thinking I’d take a lot of foliage off. I like yours! Thats about how much I’m thinking I’ll take off mine.
BunjaeKorea
Omono
Remember to treat boxwood like pine. If you remove all the foliage from a branch you will have deadwood. Also take it easy with the bends as boxwood is very hard and prone to snapping
Captain.Bonsai
Mame
I don’t think your question can be answered without seeing the rootball. My experience is that they can take a beating without missing a step.
Japonicus
Imperial Masterpiece
Isn't Napa referring to NAPA 8822 floor dry material DE? Super lightweight, soggy high pH lung irritant DE?
kale
Shohin
Yeah that stuff. I’m not very experienced but I heard it makes for good bonsai soil
Captain.Bonsai
Mame
Alright, your question makes more sense now... but it was the wrong question.
The question you meant to ask is “‘should’ I put the boxwood in that pot.” The answer is ‘no’ for multiple reasons that you should research before the spring.
Most people will tell you to build a training box or get a training pot thats more shallow than the monstrosity it’s in now... but it’s not ready for that glazed white pot. There are many long term plans that you could make after that decision, usually starting with addressing nebari first and branch structure next. More research required.
DE will work but it will stay quite wet, I personally would cut the DE with pumice and pine bark. But that’s me and that’s for a different thread. More research required.
Use the winter to study. You should be able to answer your own question by spring if you find the right resources. Good luck.
The question you meant to ask is “‘should’ I put the boxwood in that pot.” The answer is ‘no’ for multiple reasons that you should research before the spring.
Most people will tell you to build a training box or get a training pot thats more shallow than the monstrosity it’s in now... but it’s not ready for that glazed white pot. There are many long term plans that you could make after that decision, usually starting with addressing nebari first and branch structure next. More research required.
DE will work but it will stay quite wet, I personally would cut the DE with pumice and pine bark. But that’s me and that’s for a different thread. More research required.
Use the winter to study. You should be able to answer your own question by spring if you find the right resources. Good luck.
kale
Shohin
Captain.Bonsai
Mame
Lots to consider. Other questions to ask are particle size, air space, ph, EC, characteristics when freezing...
Back on topic: pond basket is better than the glazed pot.
Back on topic: pond basket is better than the glazed pot.
JoeH
Omono
- Messages
- 1,090
- Reaction score
- 997
- USDA Zone
- 9B
I get the impression that the NAPA stuff isn't consistent. My first bag I used was good, second one wasn't. It turned sort of mucky and now thy trees I used it on are doing ok but the soil just looks like Georgia clay. I am going to repot all in Floor Dry/orchid bark and pumice this spring. In FLA that is February.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Japonicus
Imperial Masterpiece
The threads title boxwood repotting and the mention of media used,
what makes up the media , is highly on topic. Can’t argue one blend
of components over another, but all 8822 certainly raised a red flag.
I have a bag of it and used it at about 10-15% last year and it certainly
holds water like a wet T-shirt. Being how tiny it is it does sift to the bottom
a lot amidst the rest of the 1/4” blend I use, so not a bad idea to later
top dress and work into soil with chopstick or blunt pencil.
If I were to use 100% anything it would be pumice.
Not that I am suggesting that in this case, but if ever...like collected material, that’s what I would use.
A standard Boon type of mix would serve well here, whether you half bare root or
as I do 2 or 3 stage soil replacement. Components are up to you.
I use Monto Clay instead of acadama now. Lasts much longer.
what makes up the media , is highly on topic. Can’t argue one blend
of components over another, but all 8822 certainly raised a red flag.
I have a bag of it and used it at about 10-15% last year and it certainly
holds water like a wet T-shirt. Being how tiny it is it does sift to the bottom
a lot amidst the rest of the 1/4” blend I use, so not a bad idea to later
top dress and work into soil with chopstick or blunt pencil.
If I were to use 100% anything it would be pumice.
Not that I am suggesting that in this case, but if ever...like collected material, that’s what I would use.
A standard Boon type of mix would serve well here, whether you half bare root or
as I do 2 or 3 stage soil replacement. Components are up to you.
I use Monto Clay instead of acadama now. Lasts much longer.
kale
Shohin
Last winter. I slipped it out of the nursery plastic pot into this big green pot and filled in with perlite and potting soil (before I learned about using inorganic substrate).
kale
Shohin
Ok thanks for the insights regarding soil! r/bonsai is where I learned about the Napa but have since found this site to be a WAY better source of info. I will look into the monto clay. So that must make up the majority of your mix then? Then you add organics I’m assuming?
Japonicus
Imperial Masterpiece
Boon mix is a 3 part mix 1:1:1 Pumice, Lava rock and Akadama. A good go to for conifers
one is often inclined to tweak for whatever reasons be it non conifers, root conditions or experience or many other factors.
Soil Components – Bonsai Jack ©
www.bonsaijack.com
Jack is quick to answer your phone call or message if you don't reach him 1st go around
very friendly, clean product, shipping built into price and state inspected regularly.
Click on a size of product that fits your needs, and scroll down. You will find more than usual
info including pH on each product, but don't get caught up in pH too much now, just mindful of.
Everybody has a go to mix they like. Most aren't wrong. You want to meet drainage requirements
and water retention based on environment, which will get you tweaking here and there as you
get hands on experience with, say a new mix. Like I will probably reduce if not remove DE based on
the fact that my maples held water too long this year using it at <20%
My current blend for conifers are equal parts lava rock, pumice, bark and Monto clay
with a touch of DE as I've heard it helps thwart springtails, a non threatening nuisance insect.
Captain.Bonsai
Mame
BJ is reliably consistent and clean. Here’s a nice study he published. Local equivalent sources are much cheaper if you can find them.
www.bonsaijack.com
Bonsai Soil / Aggregate Test Report 2014 – Bonsai Jack ©
www.bonsaijack.com
