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If the snow is powdery enough I’d cover the trees entirely if possible. Snow is your friend. I’m the temp is underneath will remain substantial above air temp. Of course adding snow over the tops might damage if the snow is chunky and hard frozen. Up to you to decide if you can do it

I’ve posted this article a few times here over the years. It was written 2010 by the then curator of the Ōmiya Bonsai Museum. It has a lot of information and perspective packed into it. Worth the read if you have 10 minutes or so https://www.japanpolicyforum.jp/culture/pt2010092816052974.html

From what I’ve seen professional “artists” don’t really Have as strong a hand in things as you may think in designing clients’ trees. They do a lot of things but a lot of what they do is recommending action and occasionally diving in and bending things etc. Idon’t think most anyone brings them...

I think this is a red herring and needlessly clouds the issue. The more i work on bonsai, the less important the question of "who DID this" becomes. I've learned that, yeah, you can claim credit for work, but doing so doesn't make it so. It IS about the trees, bottom line. If you insist on...

When’s the “final styling” and who decides when it is? Who gets the credit for selecting an excellent nebari on a “finally styled” collected tree? Who gets the credit for being good at growing out a trunk which is chopped and grown on by another? Just pointing out that the longer you work with...

So extrapolate this. As a tree grows and ages how do you gauge the amount of work put in by an increasingly long list of artists/artisans/collectors or even beginners. How can you gauge their impact collectively since those “show trees” you seem to disdain have had perhaps a century of work in...

The museum has an audio tour with similar coding if I remember right.

The tree display placards at the National Bonsai Museum have who donated the tree and years in bonsai training. This is basic info that serves as a thumbnail of a trees provenance and history. More info is available but putting it all upfront on a plaque can mean a very large plaque😁

The video shows a weird solution to wet soil. Just use a freer draining mix and keep up with repotting. The root masses in the video look dense and slow draining. Any time I see moss and Irish moss that thick on top of soil it indicates too much water

Also fwiw take advice from people who haven’t collected Cali juniper from the wild with a grain of salt. Not the same as garden juniper or Chinese juniper. It’s from a specific desert ecosystem and has adapted to those conditions. Which is why you need someone experienced in the getting them...

Get a ficus. Arizona climate makes bonsai much more difficult. (Trees should be outside all of the time except during cold spells below 45 and freezing weather in the case of tropical species. Also slow down. Repotting is stressful and watering takes time to learn (and is likely the most...

Dormant deciduous tree should ideally be kept in the shade for this very reason. Sun warms soil. Warm soil pushes roots to break dormancy.

How much root did you remove and how much did you disturb the root mass? Unfortunately given the timing of the repot (out of season) and condition of the tree now it looks to me that the repot killed it. It is dead. Junipers don’t change back to greeen once they’re all brown. Sorry

Before you go in there (assuming you get permission)) and start ripping out trees willy nilly, I'd find someone who knows what they're doing. Collecting trees like this is not just "get a shovel, dig, chop a root or two" and carry out a 1,000 year old trees. (Yes, those trees are WELL over 200...

The Friends of the National Arboretum (FONA) which took over the public/private partnership stewardship of the National Bonsai and Penjing Museum from the National Bonsai Foundation ahs made it easier to earmark donations to the museum If you want to directly support the museum, you can through...

Here in Va Zone 7 they’re marginally hardy and can require a bit more protection from the worst cold. Below 25 f can be an issue. Repeated exposure to those kind of low temps can cause dieback of top growth and roots. Mulched on the ground or in a cold pit is a good solution. Further south...

Chase Rosades nursery nw of Philly in New Hope. Matt Ouwinga at Bonsai En in Dunkirk. Md. Call before you go. https://kaedebonsai-en.com/?srsltid=AfmBOooPCeb_zi9DCQce9Exe6zOtIEuRHzCQ9j-rXX3PyI6ukB59Pldt https://www.rosadebonsai.com/

No.

If this is your work it is very interesting and unique. Haven’t seen anything like it The problem is that there have been folks that come here and start sellling from their first post. It’s not easy to telll who’s a scammer and who’s honest. Keep posting example of your work and, if you have...

Rocks are far too small. They’re all pretty boring shapes. Texture is fine. Bigger (like a lot) three times the size what have here. Trees grow. Rocks don’t. You don’t want to have a tree that swallows its rock in three years…

The short answer is none will most likely ignore the warmth. Exiting dormancy is driven by root temperatures. Unseasonable heat warms the earth and roots. All will advance into new growth stages but at different rates. The species that bud out earliest could bud out earlier if not now then at...

It’s worth saying the buds and roots are safe from freezing weather AS LONG AS THE LEAF EDGES ON THE BUDS HAVENT PULLED AWAY from the bud even if the bud shows some color Unfortunately the separation only has to be barely perceptible. Once the leaf edges become visible deciduous trees roots lose...

In other words the coming warm up may not be enough to open buds but it could put some trees in the starting blocks for the NEXT Warm up.

If you’re on the east southeast and gulf coasts the coming warm up is not good if you’ve got overwintering trees. The temps will be warm enough long enough to get some trees started pushing new growth. Doesn’t mean they’ll push new green growth but will be able to advance to more advanced stages...

The different types of bark are typical for elms. Stronger shoots develop patches of bark. Not a big deal. Can be more pronounced in some species, less so in others.