Amur maple - First pre bonsai

maten

Seedling
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Location
Oslo, Norway
Hi Everyone,

I am new here and new to bonsai. I have been reading up and watching videos etc. since Christmas to learn and prepare for the season. I have ordered some pre-bonsai material that now I am trying to figure out the way forward and I would also like to ask for some input here. :)
First one would be an amur maple (Acer ginnala) because the buds are swollen and I probably need to repot in the next couple of days. It has a decent trunk (apart from some large scars) but the taper looks good I think. The problem is the poor 'eagle-foot' nebari which wasn't visible when I ordered it online. I would like to find a potting angle that mitigates the artificial/commercial S-shape, I think it is possible by tilting the tree to either direction.

My questions:
1. Do you see potential in improving this nebari with meticulous pruning, growing out, maybe root grafts or is it better to airlayer it right away? How many years could each scenario be?
2. On the top part of the trunk there is a large scar where the bark and cambium died back (dashed red line), can this trunk line be saved by carving it or will eventually die and I need to find a new leader which seems to be challenging.
3. The branch structure seems to be a mess, disproportional placing, inverse tapers, long internodes etc. Would it be best to cut back everything to the trunk and regrow the branches, I would also like some lower branches. There are already some buds around the trunk.
4. Do I need to care about the branches at this point or I should just let them grow until the roots are on the right track? Of course If I would airlayer this year I would keep the branches and wouldn't repot.

Sorry for so many questions at the same time, it seems everything depends on everything, and I need to start somewhere. This tree seems to be a looong term project... :)

I would appreciate any advice!

Máté
 

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For amur maple it is important to realize they do not close cuts all that well. I mean, I have a 2 inch cut which has not even closed 5% after some 6 years
 
For amur maple it is important to realize they do not close cuts all that well. I mean, I have a 2 inch cut which has not even closed 5% after some 6 years
Thanks! It is very useful information.
What is the root-growing habit of this species? How hard can I prune back the roots hard? Do you have experience with promoting new roots from the barky stump? maybe with drilling hole or cutting the cambium where I want new roots?
 
Thanks! It is very useful information.
What is the root-growing habit of this species? How hard can I prune back the roots hard? Do you have experience with promoting new roots from the barky stump? maybe with drilling hole or cutting the cambium where I want new roots?
I fount them to tolerate rpuning of roots as hard as you would other robust maples. To me, the coarse growing habit and poor wound closing are the drawback. The rest.. without any troubles
 
Repotting is done. I took me ~6 hours altogether... 😅 I significantly reduced the height of the root ball and straighten or cut most of the crossing roots then I tightly bound the tree to the bottom of the grow-box to encourage development of the roots that contribute to the nebari. I also injured the cambium at those location where I want new roots and covered with sphagnum soaked in willow-water. I removed at least 2/3 of the roots I hope I didn't go too far...
IMG_20210330_181531.jpgIMG_20210330_194955.jpgIMG_20210331_121212.jpgIMG_20210331_130736.jpgIMG_20210331_135400.jpg

I found interesting that at some location the roots were fused (self-approach grafted) and forming a circle like on this photo below where I cut out the bridging piece. I found this phenomenon on both underdeveloped sides and I wonder if it somehow hindered the more even root distribution..?
IMG_20210331_113932.jpg

Finally, a quick and primitive sketch about how I imagine the final design. I found this potting angle to be the best thus this way the asymmetric nebari can be a feature as the strong oversized roots on the right are anchoring the tree strongly leaning to the left. Also, by opening and merging the unhealed wounds to a larger hole on the lower trunk to a larger hole could remind to an injury happened to the main upright trunk at young age hence the leaning tree.
IMG_20210331_120221~5.jpg
 
Any update on this
Sorry, I was busy lately.

There is actually not too much progress, I am still learning how to handle the species and have not yet established the primary structure.

It was growing well after repot for about 6-8 weeks then the growing tips probably got sun-burnt. I cut it back like hedge pruning but it didn't induce a second flush apart from a single shoot.
IMG_20210516_172109.jpgIMG_20210516_172327.jpg
The internodes were mostly too long so I have cut back almost everything during the winter.
IMG_20220418_181446.jpg
To control the growth this spring I let all the buds and 1-2 extra branches as sacrificials to spread the energy, did not fertilize and held back the water until the first couple of internodes came out. Now it is growing strongly. I am planning to cut back and fully/partially defoliate in the next 1-2 weeks to figure out the primary structure if I can.
IMG_20220602_083638.jpg
I had one particular goal for this year, to grow a strong first branch like on my virtual. I was lucky to have one growing just at the right place, until the pigeons broke off the tip...
I will make some better photos and post update soon after defoliation.
 
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