Autumn is near

[Kandoloh]

Hey yall! Being my first autumn I was curious as to what kind of work yall do to your trees during the fall? Emphasis on bougainvillea would be most helpful, but any and all species would be useful in the future. Thanks in advance!

Tex

 

[Txhorticulture]

It's a tropical so I don't think fall is the best time necessarily to work on it. Best when they are actively growing

 

[Kandoloh]

Should I cut it back for winter? Or just leave it?

 

[sorce]

I'm going to refresh my soil surfaces this year.

I always prepare for spring, but never fall.

More work this fall for me!

Sorce

 

[lieuz]

@sorce couldn't have said it better. I don't personally do it because I fertilize my trees year round; however, I've been told to heavily fertilize your trees high in phosphate to prepare your tree for the oncoming spring.

 

[JoeR]

I am more worried about what to do for winter here. How to protect trees, especially my conifers who need ?full? Sun still.

Only my second winter. I lost a few last winter and I want to make sure that doesnt happen again.

 

[Dav4]

I am more worried about what to do for winter here. How to protect trees, especially my conifers who need ?full? Sun still.

Only my second winter. I lost a few last winter and I want to make sure that doesnt happen again.

I leave my conifers out on my benches year round and only "protect" them when temps are going to fall into the low 20's F. Then, they go on the ground. If you want to be cautious, place them on the ground and mulch the pots with pine straw or something similar. Don't be afraid to let them freeze solid a few times first. Don't be as concerned about the full sun thing during the winter/dormant time...they'll do just fine with less sun exposure.

 

[JoeR]

I leave my conifers out on my benches year round and only "protect" them when temps are going to fall into the low 20's F. Then, they go on the ground. If you want to be cautious, place them on the ground and mulch the pots with pine straw or something similar. Don't be afraid to let them freeze solid a few times first. Don't be as concerned about the full sun thing during the winter/dormant time...they'll do just fine with less sun exposure.

Just set them anywhere sheltered from the wind on the ground?

 

[Dav4]

Just set them anywhere sheltered from the wind on the ground?

It really depends on your typical winter. Most of us down south don't have to worry about prolonged cold where our trees sit in frozen soil for weeks or months at a time. When it gets real cold, my trees go under the benches or under the deck, maybe with some leaves placed around the pots. At most, they've stayed like that for 2 weeks during the last 6 winters. If you think you'll likely get consistent cold each winter where it will be at or below 20 F fairly regularly, I'd find a place out of the wind AND sun and mulch them in. If you don't get that kind of cold, you can get away with less. Ultimately, it's up to you and your living situation. One of the reasons I'm reluctant to leave my trees on the ground long term is because I have a pointer who has no understanding or appreciation for trees in pots...for their own safety, the trees stay on the benches as much as possible. During a typical winter, I may need to move the trees to the ground and back again 2-4 times, which can be a bit of work...but it's worth it in my mind.

 

[JoeR]

It really depends on your typical winter. Most of us down south don't have to worry about prolonged cold where our trees sit in frozen soil for weeks or months at a time. When it gets real cold, my trees go under the benches or under the deck, maybe with some leaves placed around the pots. At most, they've stayed like that for 2 weeks during the last 6 winters. If you think you'll likely get consistent cold each winter where it will be at or below 20 F fairly regularly, I'd find a place out of the wind AND sun and mulch them in. If you don't get that kind of cold, you can get away with less. Ultimately, it's up to you and your living situation. One of the reasons I'm reluctant to leave my trees on the ground long term is because I have a pointer who has no understanding or appreciation for trees in pots...for their own safety, the trees stay on the benches as much as possible. During a typical winter, I may need to move the trees to the ground and back again 2-4 times, which can be a bit of work...but it's worth it in my mind.

Im in zone 8a if it helps.

We normally dont go below 20° F for more than say two weeks. The last few winters have been a lot worse however so I am not sure. We normally dont get any snow during winter but the last two winters it snowed several times.

We'll see I suppose!

 

[Arcto]

Low of 26 last night. My relocated Jap. maple from the valley not to happy today.

 

[Kandoloh]

Im in zone 8a if it helps.

We normally dont go below 20° F for more than say two weeks. The last few winters have been a lot worse however so I am not sure. We normally dont get any snow during winter but the last two winters it snowed several times.

We'll see I suppose!

El Niño might bring some snow this year... It didn't really snow here in the Austin metro much, more ice than snow. I'm dreaming of a white Christmas, never had one!

 

[markyscott]

Should I cut it back for winter? Or just leave it?

How far along is your bougainvillea? Are you developing branches or are you trying to encourage flowering?

Here in Houston, we still have until November before the first possible frost. It's probably sooner for you, but our bougainvillea in Houston are still sending growth. For those trees still in development, I am still pruning and wiring new growth. If you're trying to get it to flower, it's best to not prune after July or August to give the tree time to push flower buds on the new wood.


Scott

 

[Kandoloh]

How far along is your bougainvillea? Are you developing branches or are you trying to encourage flowering?

Here in Houston, we still have until November before the first possible frost. It's probably sooner for you, but our bougainvillea in Houston are still sending growth. For those trees still in development, I am still pruning and wiring new growth. If you're trying to get it to flower, it's best to not prune after July or August to give the tree time to push flower buds on the new wood.


Scott

It's still in the hanging basket I brought it home in. I'm not going to start training it until next year, but I was just wondering for typical over-wintering here in central Texas for it.

 

[markyscott]

Just protect it from freezes. It will tolerate temperatures in the 30s and 40s just fine. It's grown as a landscape plant here in Houston - people mulch the roots and throw a frost blanket over them when night time lows dip below freezing.

In pots, I treat mine the same as my other semi tropicals like ficus - they stay outside until the first freeze and then I move them into the greenhouse. Last year they stayed out all winter. The year before, they came in early. If you don't have a greenhouse, just bring the basket inside when it freezes and move it back out when the freeze danger has passed.

Scott

 

[markyscott]

They bloom on new wood. When it starts growing in spring, you can cut back hard. It will throw a bunch of shoots. Let the soil get dry to the touch between waterings.

Scott

 

[markyscott]

What else can I tell you:

• Big bougys are more impressive than little ones because of the spectacular spring foliage display. They're always a crowd pleaser at our shows.
• Large cuttings root easily. This is where many of them come from.
• Use a coarse, well-drained mix and let it get dry to the touch but don't let it dry out completely - they'll mope when they're low on water. If you let it go too long after wilting without water it will drop leaves. Then it will sulk for a month or so and you me up losing half a season of development.
• I used to keep mine in full sun all day, but I've got better growth with abt four hours of full sun and filtered light the rest of the day. In the landscape they grow great in full sun - perhaps that means they like cool feet. So try shading your pot if you put it in full sun.
• Wire when it's still green. Lignified wood is brittle.
• Watch the wire carefully so it doesn't cut in - wiring scars don't heal well.
• Large wounds will never heal.
• Don't start wiring when you're in a bad mood. It will get worse by the time you're one. I always have bloody fingers.
• Wire out pads and a broad canopy for the best foliage display in the spring. Give room between the pads so that they all get plenty of light to promote blooming.
• Fertilize - they are heavy feeders. Some say to use a low N fertilizer to promote flowering. I use a balanced one all year - enough to to worry about without individualized fertilizer regimens for each tree. They bloom reliably, in my experience.
• They'll tolerate temps into the 30s just fine, but protect from freezes.
• They bloom on new wood. So build ramification and let the spring shoots extend without pruning for the best foliage display.
• After blooming in spring, you can cut back hard. It will throw a bunch of shoots.
• Watch where you drop your clippings when you prune - stepping on them is no fun.

Perhaps some of our Florida colleagues could give you some more tips.

Scott

 

[markyscott]

I wired the summer growth on this semi-cascade over the weekend. It's the third wiring and cut back of the season. I probably have one more to go. Then a hard cut back in spring after the bloom and we start over again: flower - cut back - let grow - prune & wire- let grow - prune & wire- let grow - prune & wire - repeat until you're too old to do it anymore.



It has purple bracts.

S.

 

[Kandoloh]

Thanks for all the great information Scott!

 

[Kandoloh]

She started pushing some bracts this passed week after I slip potted into a slightly larger nursery pot. It's starting to cool off now, hopefully she will finish her cycle before it gets too cold. I also picked up some bougain but I think I will wait till spring to use it, suggestions about that?